sucked in some water! now what

[Gary P]

My recently rebuilt 225 promax drain hose got pulled inside the motor and before I knew it, it started to lose rpm. When I took the cowl off the passenger side hose was pointed to the front resting alongside the throttle cable. I put it back and restarted the engine and it seemed to run fine. about 5 miles down the river, I lost about 5oo rpm while only doing about 3500 rpm. I pulled it out, checked compression and spark and all was good, put in a couple of days later and it idled fine, but when I go to step on it, it just wants to shut down. I also noticed that right before the engine quit due to the water getting in, my volt meter jumped to 16 volts. I had also replaced a bad powerpack a few days before with a used one I had and it seemed to run fine for the first half hour before the water incident. Any suggestions? I have already checked out all electronics for wetness and seemed to be dry. and she will start and run fine at idle. cyl are all around 130 . What else could the water have damaged. One tech ssaid it could have messed up the fuel injection, but I didn't understand how. Could the spike in voltage, mess the powerpacks up again? troubleshooting is not fun!

[Gary P]

anybody? help!

[rock]

Sounds like a stator failure. Timing could be coincidental.
Rock

[The Big Al]

Sounds like a stator failure. Timing could be coincidental.
Rock

Agree!

I have seen water foul a plug!
Water does not compress, it can push the isolator out of the plugs.

You could have good static compression and have a leaky head gasket.

Do a leak down.

AL

[Gary P]

Thanks, the stator was new last summer,I guess it could still go. whats a leak down? I put in another pack today and will try again tomorrow

[The Big Al]

In a nut shell!

You apply air into the cylinder and measure the percentage of loss.

It's the only true way to see cylinder condition.

Static compression can hide damage.

Here is one from Snap On.(Thier are better priced ones on the market and just as good if not better) Just example of tester.


http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/images/gauges/EEPV309A.jpg




<TABLE cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=4 width="95%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=BigHeading>EEPV309A Cylinder Leakage Tester</TD></TR><TR><TD>http://buy1.snapon.com/products/diagnostics/images/Pgif/clear.gif</TD></TR><TR><TD>The EEPV309A Cylinder Leakage Tester gauges the amount of leakage in an engine cylinder, and can help pinpoint the source. It is best used to compare a suspect cylinder to a known good cylinder on same engine. Excellent for testing late model cars and trucks in which clearance is minimal. </TD></TR><TR><TD>Use the Cylinder Leakage Tester by itself or in conjunction with a compression gauge to determine mechanical condition of the engine's cylinders.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

[The Big Al]

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD vAlign=top align=left width="80%">
CYLINDER LEAKAGE TESTER • Measures cylinder ability to hold compressed air
• Dual gauge design is superior to single gauge units; allows monitoring of input line pressure
• Has a precision regulator with a combination M14 and M18 adapter on a 26" hose assembly
• Gauges are protected by rubber boots
• Instructions and case


</TD><TD vAlign=top align=left width="20%" rowSpan=3>
</TD></TR><TR><TD style="BACKGROUND-IMAGE: url(/Catalog/images/redline_vert.gif); BACKGROUND-REPEAT: repeat-y" align=left colSpan=2><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD align=left colSpan=2>Part#: CLT2PB Price: $117.40
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD align=left colSpan=2><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD> </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width=70>Qty.<INPUT maxLength=3 size=3 value=1 name=quantity_909863> </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width=96>http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/images/button_cart02.gif </TD><TD vAlign=top align=middle width=115>http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/images/button_wish01blue.gif (javascript:addCart(909863, document.form_30010)) </TD><TD> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/CLT2PB.jpg

[stokernick]

Balzy's are better and cheaper!

[rock]

Balzy's are better and cheaper!

I don't know if they are any better but what he builds sure works well.
Gary I would not recommend switching those switchboxes 1 at a time. I don't understand exactly why but I have always heard they should be replaced in pairs and that they can have a problem in one that creates a problem in the other. Did you have a chance to check the stator?
Rock

[Gary P]

I put in another pack and it ran fine! I just had time to run it around a cove while my brother watched my kids on the shore. I ran it for a few minutes up to about 70 mph and everything was perfect? I still don't know why it would run for about 15 minutes on the other pack and just fail? I guess I will take it on a longer run but stay close to the ramp and see what she does. There was absolutely no hesitation at take off and idle speed was perfect and smooth at 800 rpm. I also drove it on the trailer for the first time and put it underload as I loaded it and it sounded perfect. The next test will be to see if it will run for a length of time at 80+.

[rock]

That longer run statement is a good idea. Seems electrical component failures are often heat related. A longer run will expose it. Glad to hear it is working.
Rock

[The Cleaver]

A guy i know had his boat tied up near a high voltage powerline one summer and he had to replace the stator seven times:(