Finger ports in a 2.0 merc

[slowsucks]

Where exactly would I put finger ports in a 2.0 merc? In the piston I assume. Then I still have the question of where they line up with the intake ports and will this change the way the boat idles?

[Fast Fred]

http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/8687/pa220003fr6.th.jpg (http://img237.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pa220003fr6.jpg)
this what the tranfurs in the bullit look like,
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7467/p9190005hr3.th.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p9190005hr3.jpg)
this is not a 2.0 merc, but the same set up.:cool:
the finger port is in the middle between the Boost and side transfur.

[1meanstream]

Hi FF how are ya. :)

[slowsucks]

I have a better idea now but being able to see the difference in a 2.0 that has been worked would help alot more. Thanks Jeff

[Fast Fred]

about the same, APBA 120 specs, you can get them from the main office,
Hay STV, whats up:cool:

[slowsucks]

Do you have a link to the main office where I could see the 120 specs? I couldn't find one.

[Fast Fred]

ya gots to pay for a copy,:( 5867739700 , one of the girls will help ya out, thay are ausome:cool:

[slowsucks]

I'd buy a coppy if I had money, Hell if I had money I'd buy a 280!!

[Fast Fred]

go to "'for sale One Mod 50 stinger 15"' thares a port map thare, no hights, but it'll show ya ware thay go, not a merc map, but close enuff to get ya ware yas goin:cool:

[Capt.Insane-o]

http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/search.php?searchid=598686

read away..some awesome info from US1 amongst all that

[slowsucks]

So there is a finger port on each side of the trasnsfer port. how deep do they go in the block and how wide for a 2.0? All this time I thought that you added a finger port in the piston on the intake side and didn't have to do any thing on the block. Things are becoming much clearer. Thanks Jeff

[Fast Fred]

ya need to do both to make it work:cool:

[Bruce Washburn]

I don't think that The SST 120 motors are not finger ported. The old style mid 80's 2.0 L motors wer finger ported. I hav seennumerous widths an length of the finger ports on thse engines. Ruck or Jay Smith would be a good source of info. I thnk T-Rex also played with soe 2.0L motors in the last few years. The finger ports help on top side.

Thanks
Bruce

[slowsucks]

T-rex is the one who has given me most of the information on working a 2.0l He has done a few in the past few years. He has one pulling about 285hp. I'd be happy with alittle over 200.

[Capt.Insane-o]

I did a 77 175 with finger ports and port hights very simmilar to a 260, 3/8 inch wide fp's instead of 1/2 for more ring support. It runs very well, but it must be spun to take advantage of it.

[slowsucks]

T-rex was saying very high rpm but didn't elaborate on what very high is. I'm not to affraid of rpm around 8000. Hell that is why I am running a 2.0 now instead of a 2.5, the #6 piston came out of place and ended up in the cowling. :( . So far I have raised the intake and exhaust ports to what t-rex recommended. I havn't had the heads cut yet. I was getting 57 mph out of it without any work at all.

Here is a question for all of ya. will it run with out cutting the heads now that the ports have been raised or will compression be to low? Just want to get an Idea of what my compression is before shaving the heads. I have this problem of having to run the boat to see what it will do with the work that has been done. Or is this jumping the gun and I should wait till the heads are cut.

[Capt.Insane-o]

cut the heads to 24-26 cc's You don't really want an 8000 rpm motor on a 57mph boat. What hull is it anyway?

[slowsucks]

It's a LIGHTNING ski mvp. I know alot of people don't like lightning because of coppied boats, I got a good deal on the hull. I had a 225 promax that I blew and can't afford to get another. I was running in the low 90's when it blew and never got my set up dialed in. I was turning a 28" chopper 7600. I was getting 57 out of the stock 135hp. I just want to in the high 70's or low 80's. If not if it goes faster it's all good.

[Capt.Insane-o]

Ahh.. the 135 is so choked down that they don't run good on the top end anyhoo. Get a tuner and carbs from a 200 while your at all this as well, better yet would be using the efi off the promax and having the ecu reproged or a pcu. Just the tuner carbs and cut heads makes a huge difference on a 135. If you can swing having the wrist pins lightened too by Jay or anyone else that helps, not much with performance, but a lighter mass is help full if you keep your foot in it forever. These are tough arse little motors if done properly.

[slowsucks]

So I should be able to run my promax front half withe this engine if I have the heads cut, right? That would make things easier. I also have 2.4 200 carbs so I will try those first and we'll see where I'm at then if I have more to go then will try the 225 promax front half with 14 pedal reeds. I know that will bolt up to the 2.0. Just had no reason to try with a stock 135. The boat weighs 750 plus fuel and me so about 1100 or 1200 lbs give or take a few. I should have my new rings tomorrow and then I will beable to do compression check. I want to run 145 to 150 psi. Any other advise I'd be more than willing to try. I've got 2 blocks and am going to build the next one after I get this one done. I will be doing the finger ports in the next one. If it pulls like I want then I will take this one down and do the finger ports on this one too.

[slowsucks]

Ok it's built and runs but isn't burning all of the fuel in the cylinders. It's also hard starting. I found a few problems for starters I don't have spark on #2 which I think is the switch box. I know it's not the coil. I have changed the switch box with an old one, it's bad but going to try the other extra one that I have. Once I have spark on all 6 what should my timing be with the ports raised? Would it be timing or possiably that the plug isn't hot enough, plugs are bu8h. I havn't checked timing yet because I need to figure spark out first. I have 120psi on all 6.

Thanks Jeff

[T-REX]

OK Jeff, give me a run down on ya port hieghts, exhaust cavity status, if fingerported or no,,,,


Once I have spark on all 6 what should my timing be with the ports raised?...wit 120#s ov comp, 26* won't hurt fer top and set idle at split case, then move to attain idle U want!!......If U raised tha port hieghts to what we talked about, 120#s comp juss ain't gunna cut it!!!


and runs but isn't burning all of the fuel in the cylinders..........Ain't never gunna burn ALL tha gas in tha cyl's!!!....Tha higher tha ports, tha more unburned fuel escapes out tha exhaust ports!!


plugs are bu8h..........Git sum B9hs...b8hs are hotter.....BR9hs are for efi!!


So I should be able to run my promax front half withe this engine if I have the heads cut, ........NO, unless U have a LATE model 2.0 which iz on tha 2.5 platform...92 back 2.0's have small mains like a 2.4, and tha promax front 1/2 won't fit!!!!.....BUT the efi manifold can be made to fit tha 2.0, thus use'in tha promax 200 efi!!....


then will try the 225 promax front half with 14 pedal reeds.
...............Fergit tha 14peddle crap wit a 2.0...Tha 5 peddle stuff will run circles around it...It will work better wit efi, but still iz not az good az tha 5 peddle front!!!.;.


If you can swing having the wrist pins lightened too by Jay or anyone else that helps, ......IMO, it'z a total waste ov ya time and money!!!...If U iz race'in, it mite make a thousands ov a sec differnce, an datz a big maybe.....on tha river play'in...NOTTTTTTTTTTT

[Capt.Insane-o]

"If you can swing having the wrist pins lightened too by Jay or anyone else that helps, not much with performance, but a lighter mass is help full if you keep your foot in it forever".

I've been taken out of context! *proceeds to rant like most others* j/k
true you probably won't be turning the rpms like mine do, it was just a thought off my bored idle miind. Me and rod bolts have this love/hate thing, I love to see 10k tach used to it's full potential, they don't.

[T-REX]

I love to see 10k tach used to it's full potential, they don't.


I have tha same luv ov dem lil mota'z screem over 10K...And I'm not knock'in ya way ov doin thangz, juss state'in a fact dat I have prooved over and over agin.....A lot ov theze HI DOLLAR trickz ov tha trade are juss dat, TRICKZ to git a man'z money.....RIVER and RACE'IN ain't one in tha same!!!....(not dragg'n any way)...Marathon runn'n would be a good river mota, per say...I have a 2.0 dat will sho ya 11K any time ya wanna nail it!!!...It'z a carb mota, 320#s compression, stock 2liter fish'in rods, rod bolts, NO light weight WP'z, and a STOCK aluminium flywheel, OH, and mite I add a oiler crank!!!..........Will it break???,,,,,HELL YEA it will, juss a matter ov wher and when....

OB mota'z iz juss like women'z........U kan spend big buckz, morgage ya house for'um, an when ya need'um tha most, they leeve ya hang'in...an sumtimes tha bess performerz are tha plane jane, low dollar ones!!!!!

[Capt.Insane-o]

320#s compression

You get the Cummins badges for it yet? ;) Not knockin' yer way by any means. I know what you mean by low dough. My spare is a motor I bought for 200 bucks, burnt in a house fire. Fixed it with spare parts, only thing new in it is gaskets and reeds. Ran the **** out of it for four years 8000rpm for miles and miles and miles and miles on end. still turns 8000rpms, starts and idles perfect. Ugly too.

[slowsucks]

The trigger was bad. I am waiting on a friend of mine with heads at 150#s. I got the spark adjusted to where it doesn't shoot a flame out of the exhaust no more.

The 2.0 is the late model and the 2.5 front half will bolt right up. Will the fuel injection handle these high rpms? It's a lazer injection for the 225 promax.

[T-REX]

Tha fuel injection WILL handle anythang U kan muster up from that mota...I run a late model 2.0 in DSRA SS one yeer, and it NEVER sent tha tach past 7K!!!.....and that wuz @ 1125#s...Now I have had sum oldies show 7600, but not all...This iz NON-fingerported mota'z....When ya thro in tha fingerports iz when U will see sum differnce...Oh, be very carfull not to take out too much ov tha back, kuz when ya raise tha ports, and take out tha back, yo bottom end suffers big time...

[Bruce Washburn]

Unless you plan to turn big RPM's 8500 to 9K or more I would forget abou the 14 peddle front half and probably not waste my time with the finger ports. A set of WH 46 carbs should do the job for what you are looking to do. Going to th EFI off the promax probably will be more of a hassle than a help. I am sure that the fuel curve will be different.

Cutting the heads to 26 cc should give you the most bang for the buck

The guys running SST 120 are turning their motors in the high 8 with some of the front runners over 9. They run cross drilled manifolds with WH 46 carbs. I would stat with the stock manifold first. If you go to across drilled manifold remember to richen the jets. The 120's also have a long tuner. When th 120 guys step up to Formula 150 or champ some switch to a shorter tuner. The shorter tuner seems to be a benefit on a tunnel boat but remember a 120 boat only weighs 1100 pounds including the driver, prop, etc and is about 16 1/2 ft long.

The thing that is easy to get caught up in is that many of the performance mods that you would make to pull out big HP numbers usually decrease the length of the power band or move it well above any RPM that you will ever turn. What you end up with is a motor that gains little to no top end and has no bottom end. It would be interesting to hear what the motr guru's would say but I would be willing to bet that a good 260 motor will out run a Drag motor with the same heads on most pleasure boats up to 7000. If you have a drag boat or tunnel turning 9 or 10k the drag is a much better choice.

A number of years ago I put a stock old style SST 120 (old 175) on a 19 V Lazer bow rider. I ran a 24 chopper on 2:1 gears at 6900RPM The boat would run 67-69. It was a good motor but nothing trick.

If everything is right you should easily be in the mid 70's with a good 2.0L.

I hope this is of help
Bruce Washburn

[slowsucks]

The ports are 2.100 on the intake and 1.525 on the exhaust and the exhaust cavity has been worked.
I still havn't run the boat in the water yet. Don't know what it will do. And I don't have the 150# heads yet. would it be bad to run it on the 120#?

[T-REX]

would it be bad to run it on the 120#?


Won't hurt it, but won't give it'z potential either!!...

OK, I couldn't remember what we said on tha ports, but 1.525 will leeve ya sum bottom end to play wit, but iz high enuff to turn a few R'z...It'z hard to say what exzakt RPM it will turn untill U git your ducks in a row...It should pust a fairly light bote to 7500 tho, ov corse, depending on prop, set up etc!!


The guys running SST 120 are turning their motors in the high 8

Tha sst 120 are pozed to be stock 150's, but I never had a stock fish'in mota turn like tha sst120 mota...I know tha weight meenz everthang, but even on my 1107# bote(ready to run) tha sst 120 2.0 would have 700 to 1000RPM differnce!!!!...Juss kan't see one not have'in paint on it bein tha only differnce(other than differnt port layouts, and not much ther either).....

Kumm'on , Bruce, fill us ole dummy'z in on them sst 120 sekrets:eek: :D

[slowsucks]

Stock it was turning 6k with a 24P and that was with 100# on 4 and 1 at 90# and 1 at 85#. The boat weighs about 1200 or 1300 wit me in it dependin on what the wife makes for dinner. Had some over heat problems finally got that figured out. It still doesn't sound quite like it is firing on all 6 cylinders. So still got to play with it till I got it.

[slowsucks]

I pulled spark plug wires and 1 2 & 4 didn't change the way the enging sounds. Spark is good on all 6 and fuel is getting to the cylinders. It allmost looked like it was flooded on those 3 plugs the other 3 made a significant change in the way the engine ran and the plugs had just a little bit of fuel on them not like 1 2 & 4. Any ideas? things to try that I may have forgot.

[slowsucks]

it runs but not quite right. I got 5600 rpm and couldn't check because my gps speedo didn't turn on. Has a lot of hesitation in the midrange and felt like one or two cylinders kept trying to power up but couldn't. It was surging about 2-3 hundred rpm at full throttle. only ran it for about 3 minutes at WOT in 3 runs. Any ideas?
I won't be online or workin on the boat next week. I will be trying all ideas when I get back. I got to leave all this behind and go huntin for a week in TN.

[wrechin2]

So a update would be nice. What was the difference? What rpm/speed have you gotten. Before and after results. Thanks

[slowsucks]

I had a 2.0 on the back of the boat and didn't know it had some work done. I thought it was a stock 135 power head but I mesured it and it's 2.100 on the intakes and the rod slots have been cut out. The exhaust hasn't been touched so it has a good low and midrange. that block turned a 24 cleaver 6100 rpm on a 1.87 gearcase @ 58mph.

That's the story. Now that is why I thought I was having problems with this block but It's rod slots havn't been cut and still havn't had a chance to get the heads cut. Also I am putting way too much fuel in to the cylinders. I need to re jet the carbs but havn't had time.

What I am going to do is take the motor that I havn't worked on and have jay in west palm beach to fingerport and see what else he can to it and I am going keep tinkering with this block that I have worked.

[wrechin2]

Thank! Was curious about it. Ran across it doing some research.