torquing heads

[bigbore]

just wondering if,or what high temp threadlock might be used on the head bolts.:cool:

[FAST RALLY SPORT]

OIL ON THE TIP OF BOLT.

[THE HOGG]

I Thought You Were Supposed To Put Oil On Them. But Im Certainly Not An Expert.

[WATERWINGS]

Manual says oil

[bigbore]

the idea with oil would just be for anti-ceize,but i was thinking it looked like the factory used some type of threading compound,(assuming they've never been pulled before)so i was thinking maybe like some sort of high tach threading,gasket,compound.maybe even high-tach compound,although that stuff is more for a threading compound (don't think its resistant to heat)it's just resistant to gas.:cool:

[1BadAction]

www.put oil on them unless you want to break bolts off in the block.com (http://www.putoilonthemunlessyouwanttobreakboltsoffintheblock.com)

[jphii]

If you listen to these welfare motor guys you're gonna be in trouble. No oil, none of that other crap either. DRY, 19#.

[bigbore]

thats were i'm at right now,dry n 19 pds.,were good:cool:

[jphii]

Check it after you heat it up, and go to 20# then.

[The Big Al]

Use oil on threads and head face of bolt.

The reason is to reduce friction or thread seizing and to get a true torque reading.

If it's Merc and your only going 20lbs your nuts! Plain and simple.

The factory setting on most black engines (none HI PO) is 30lbs then 90 degree turn. ( this is with the factory thick head gaskets)

Now when using the thinner one the safe area seems to be around 60-75 lbs. Varies from builder to builder.

And I don't care what engine in the world your assembling, you put oil on the threads and head of the bolt!

[jphii]

Hey Al, look at his signature .gif. Bigbore, if you listen to anything these welfare motor guys say you're gonna have one big piece of junk after you start it, if it starts. Do like I told ya. I haven't blown a head gasket after a year of racing with WELL over 200# of compression.

NO OIL OR ANY THING ON THE BOLTS.

[1BadAction]

oh yeah thats right, you guys blow motors well before the threads have a chance to sieze... still cant figure out how you get a real tq reading off a dry bolt though. :confused:

[jphii]

So you put oil on every bolt you torque? You oil spark plug threads when you torque them?

[1BadAction]

anything that needs to be accurate, either has oil or loctite. (loctite lubes the threads untill it drys)

Theres a big difference between a sparkplug with 3/8" of fine threads going into a hole that most likely already has oil on it, compared to a 1-1/2" or deeper coarse threaded hole thats bone dry. ESPECIALLY a steel bolt in an aluminum block. :cool:

[pyro]

they run OMC's. you really think they understand what you're saying???

[jphii]

they run OMC's. you really think they understand what you're saying???

We understand, and put all the bolts in when we put them back together.

[mercpunk]

i like that welfare motor comment that really took some thought:rolleyes:

[1BadAction]

We understand, and put all the bolts in when we put them back together.

LMFAO.

wow, this is a great thread, right up there with arguing about cutting blades of the impeller of a water pump to gain HP.

[jphii]

That's funny! We're talking about head bolts, and I have never used any lube at all. And never had a gasket fail. I know Merc specs oil on rod bolts, but I've never seen OMC spec it in writing, or for a head bolt. And we're talking about OMC head bolts. Wayne Taylor never said a thing about putting oil on my head bolts as he STOOD RIGHT THERE and watched me put them on. But I guess he doesn't know what he's doing either.

But, if bigbore torques those heads to the spec Al said, 30# + 90 degrees or 65-75# he's not gonna be a real happy camper even if he puts Slick 50 on the bolts.

[The Big Al]

Hey Al, look at his signature .gif. Bigbore, if you listen to anything these welfare motor guys say you're gonna have one big piece of junk after you start it, if it starts. Do like I told ya. I haven't blown a head gasket after a year of racing with WELL over 200# of compression.

NO OIL OR ANY THING ON THE BOLTS.

Your engine does not last long enough for head gaskets to blow!!!!:rolleyes:

If thats the torque for Evinrude, then OK.

But to answer your question and oil on threads!

YES! ABSOLUTELY YES!

OIL IS THE LIFE OF MACHINERY!

One drop will go a long way to save threads.

And a must on aluminum threads.

Also if you have bolt going a long way on aluminum or stainless, transmission fluid would be a great choice.

And if your only torquing to 19 or 20lbs
(thats 228 to 240 inch pounds)
I bet a little oil can get those closer.
And I would use a inch pound torgue wrench.

I am very serious about true torque specs. And the use of such a lower pound reading, I would demand oil on it.


Now keep this in mind, one drop of oil can go a long way!
I'm not saying dump the bolt in oil.

Accurate torque it very important.
These fasteners are attaching two or more machined surfaces together.
You go to all the trouble to make sure they are straight and correct, then just slam them together?

If you think the head does not move around, put 2 or 3 dia indicators on the head, while bolting it down. You will see that head bend! Even at only 20lbs

Also using tap and dies to clean the threads is also a very smart practice.

You can do it right, or do it twice!
If you have enough pieces left to do it with. And can afford it!

Al

[Fast Fred]

at the factory thay use light oil, no locktight. dry is not the way.
Oh, just in case thare is any queston a F'n bout it, i'v torqued hundereds of head gaskets, have yet to lose one from bein torqued wrong.
good luck

[The Big Al]

Joe, come on man!

You can't comprehend?

I said in the 3rd sentence Merc!

I did not what he was talking about!

[Fast Fred]

And a must on aluminum threads.[QUOTE]OIL IS THE LIFE OF MACHINERY!
And I would use a inch pound torgue wrench.:cool:
this is all good stuff, what ever the spec is, thats what you want to bring it to, to set the fire ring. :cool:

[The Big Al]

[quote]And a must on aluminum threads.:cool:
this is all good stuff, what ever the spec is, thats what you want to bring it to, to set the fire ring. :cool:
I agree 100%

[jphii]

what ever the spec is, thats what you want to bring it to, to set the fire ring.

That's right, and unless otherwise specified, torque specs are for clean, dry threads.

[Riverman]

torque specs are for clean, dry threads.Really? I've never heard of such a thing. Dry threads and bolt head will not give a correct torque reading.

[Fast Fred]

make sure your threds are clean, chace them out, save the locktight for your next set of rod bolts. OMC manual don't say any thing about usein red locktight on rod bolts, but thats how it's done. wet with oil, thin oil, thats how it's done,
head and case bolts. case end caps go on at the same time as the 1/2's go together, seen a fue rebuilds ware the end cap or caps have been beat in place after the 1/2's have been torqued together.:eek:

[bigbore]

hopefully i fingerported enough for the case to blow out (around the bolts)n lube it while running:D ,no im kiding(obviously)a dab of oil might not be a bad idea(to assure correct torque specs n act as anti-ceize),but
the only way alluminuim should be able to ceize is by corosion,by the same token,jp is right about torqing 1-2pds.light n re-torquing after its reached operating tempeture.:cool:

[FAST RALLY SPORT]

JOE FROM WHAT I SEEN AT RIVER RANCH YOU HAD VELCRO :eek: ON YOUR HEADS ANYWAY.:D

[Raceman]

I can't figure why ANYBODY would recommend AGAINST putting lubrication on a bolt that's going to be torqued?:confused: :confused: :confused: