Alisyn ProGear 21

[PHISH]

How do I know which one of Alisyn's oil is right for me? I lost my gears this summer and I am shopping for a lower to fit my 1981 235 Looper Johnson and I noticed Alisyn has types 1 - 6 and they vary in price.
Sometimes the most expensive one isn't always the best for certain gearcase's or its overkill for how I use my boat.

Can someone please explain the different blends to me and steer me in the proper direction with Alisyn products?

Cheers

Matt

http://aerospacelubricants.thomasnet.com/viewitems/market-marine/progear-21?&forward=1

[pyro]

Scroll down further on the Alisyn page:

Type 1 <<0W
Type 2 80W
Type 3 75W-90
Type 4 85W-140
Type 6 <<<0W

[Markus]

Scroll down further on the Alisyn page:

Type 1 <<0W
Type 2 80W
Type 3 75W-90
Type 4 85W-140
Type 6 <<<0W

Type 1 is what has been tested on S&F with a noticable improvement in performance. I have a couple of bottles at home to test as well, but this year's boating season was such a complete failure, that it will have to wait until next year

Type 2 and 3 would both work well in any outboard lower unit. They will last much longer than standard OEM oil, and give better lubrication, but not give any noticeable performance improvement

Type 4 has unnecessarily high viscosity for an outboard application

Type 6, I would not run until I see good test results from someone else

[1BadAction]

if Type 1 is <<0W and Type 6 is <<<0W, type 6 might as well be water :eek:

Markus, do you think the type 1 will have the same durability as factory lube? testing is one thing, but over the long run I still leary of that thin oil.

[specboatops]

if Type 1 is <<0W and Type 6 is <<<0W, type 6 might as well be water :eek:

Markus, do you think the type 1 will have the same durability as factory lube? testing is one thing, but over the long run I still leary of that thin oil.

GOOD POINT, I DID RUN IT THIS PAST SEASON IN MY LOWER, SEEMED TO BE O.K., LOOKED ALLRIGHT WHEN I DRAINED IT AND REFILLED IT WHILE WINTERIZING, BUT I TOO WONDER ABOUT LONG TERM EFFECTS.

[1BadAction]

According to the ASTM D-4172 testing, all the alisyn oils have better wear qualitys than even semi-synthetic factory lube. of course testing is just good for an educated guess at what the oil will do in the "real world"... Its hard to get that "thicker is better" thought out of my head.

on a related note, changed out to full synthetic in my truck yesterday. Transfer case, rear end, and front end. Xfer case was syn from the factory, front end has no effect on mpg in 2wd, so the only change from dino oil to syn was in the rear. The old lube that came out of the rear end was pretty nasty, the transfer case fluid looked used, but wasnt bad. I was getting 19/20mpg at 60mph on the way to the shop, got 23mpg at 60mph on the way home. Instantly picked up a solid 3mpg, pretty amazing.

[RBT]

Damn`, 3mpg it great. I just bought a new Jeep and am gonna do it all in it.

On the Alisyn in a gearcase, I have been using it for 10ish years. I personally cannot reccomend type 1 for everyday use. I also have never seen a gain with it. Though I do run type 1 when racing, for everyday use I run type II....... your case WILL last longer.

RT

[specboatops]

I Was Talking To An Older Racer That Said They Use To Use Dextron In The Lowers Back In The Day, He Said It Was Very Common. I Had Never Heard Of Such A Thing But He Is A Credible Source.

Chris

[jphii]

But putting it in your truck if it's under warranty is a no-no if you have a sh***y dealer like I do. The boyz at Alisyn say wait till you're out of warranty.

And I run ATF in my lower, all year, racing, with no problems whatsoever. Going Alisyn on the new gearcase to check it out.

[1BadAction]

RBT- on the truck I couldnt believe it at first. slowed down then reset the cruise at 60 3 different times, and it was right on 23mpg. It was Mobil full synthetic gear lube f/r, with 8oz of friction modifier (for the auto lock diffs) and the xfer case was gm auto-trac synthetic. I wish someone would come up with lube to replace that auto-trac chit, the dealer thinks its liquid gold. :rolleyes:

[1meanstream]

I use to mix the "0" and "80" weight 50/50 to make 40 weight and never had a problem. Also if you call Jerry at alisyn he's a nice guy who is always helpful. :)

[PHISH]

Damn`, 3mpg it great. I just bought a new Jeep and am gonna do it all in it.

On the Alisyn in a gearcase, I have been using it for 10ish years. I personally cannot reccomend type 1 for everyday use. I also have never seen a gain with it. Though I do run type 1 when racing, for everyday use I run type II....... your case WILL last longer.

RT
So do you suggest going with type II for regular lake racer kind of stuff?

[RB in NM]

I run the Alisyn Zero weight in both my Sporty 1:87's and my Titus 200 2:1 case. I've been spinning the 200 case at 10k all season. I picked up a few rpm's right outta tha box, and the shifting is so smooth it's scary. I changed the lube in the 200 case after 6 races,,, it was as clean as when I put it in. I have not yet pulled the gears to look them over, but will do so in a month or so.

Russ

[RBT]

STV4Me,
I do the same.......... I just didn't want to get that complicated.

RT

[Ziemer]

I ran the 0 wt for awhile in my sporty for racing, however I've since switched back to Merc H.P. Last year when I first started using it, after a couple of races I drained it and although there was no sign of metal shavings the lube always had a metallic quality, similar to a metallic paint. After talking with a few people, I was told that even though it maintains a good lubricating property for gears it can be harder on the bearings and most likely that was what I was eeing in the drained lube. Another question I have always had is it's ability to mix with water and what kind of lubrication properties it would still maintain in case of any small leaks.

For everyday lake riding I would either stick with the 80 wt. Alisyn or the Merc HP. I've been using the Merc HP.


if Type 1 is <<0W and Type 6 is <<<0W, type 6 might as well be water :eek:

Hell, the Type I seems like water already! :p :D :D :D

[Markus]

I use to mix the "0" and "80" weight 50/50 to make 40 weight and never had a problem. Also if you call Jerry at alisyn he's a nice guy who is always helpful. :)

There is no such thing as a 40 weight gear lube.

Crank case lubes and gear lubes use different scales, so that you don't mix them up. 40 wt is used for crank case lube.

Similarly, there is not such thing as a 0 wt gear lube. The viscosity of the 0 wt Alisyn would have been about 0 if it were a crank case lube, that is why it is called 0 wt.

[Ziemer]

Similarly, there is not such thing as a 0 wt gear lube. The viscosity of the 0 wt Alisyn would have been about 0 if it were a crank case lube, that is why it is called 0 wt.

According to Alisyn, their pro-drive 0 wt. and their pro-gear 0 wt. is the same formula.;)

[Ray Neudecker]

I have some fishing motors that have been running the 0 weight for over 10 years with no problems.

[1meanstream]

There is no such thing as a 40 weight gear lube.

Crank case lubes and gear lubes use different scales, so that you don't mix them up. 40 wt is used for crank case lube.

Similarly, there is not such thing as a 0 wt gear lube. The viscosity of the 0 wt Alisyn would have been about 0 if it were a crank case lube, that is why it is called 0 wt.



Your loosing it. Try and keep things in context to the conversation. :)

[1bad67]

i have run the progear type 1 all summer got 100 hours on it. just changed it this past weekend looks as clean as when it was put in. i can say that i will use it from now on