srx prop on a mariner????prop nut.

[live2ride31]

i just got my srx and i havent tried to put it on yet..im sure i can figure it out but im asking anyway..ive read that you can just cut down a merc prop nut or get a nut thats split in half to put it on.....can anybody explain why this is necessary and the safest way to do this....i dont want to lose it...and where can i buy what i need before the ct river run next weekend. thanks for any input.................dave

[pyro]

It's got a longer hub than a Merc prop. there's barely any shaft threads sticking out the end. Only the last half-inch of splines engage when using and SRX on a Merc. DAH Pro-Pellers sells "thin" nylock nuts that work well for this. Do NOT cut down a plain brass nut. Without any locking system in place, thrust washer compression could allow it to back out.

[Rich Owen]

Make sure you have the proper thrust washer . Try Rick at GnR Marine for an OMC washer .

[live2ride31]

thanks for the info guys...so rich,,should i pack lunch or did you count me and one other for food?................................dave

[Rich Owen]

A couple of pieces of pizza have your name on them .

[stokernick]

pizza,did somebody say cookies??donuts???

[Rich Owen]

Apple filled for me Nick .

[StratosVT]

I don't understand why you need to cut a washer. I run an SRX on my Merc (Sportmaster) all the time. Just use the standard Mercury hardware. Theres nothing for the star washer to lock onto, but you'll just snug it up to the back of the prop. Get it good and tight! There should be more than enough thread to tighten the nut.

[pyro]

There's enough threads to torque a nut on there, but there's not enough threads sticking out to engage the nylon part of the prop nut to ensure that it can't back out. I know that if you're using a 200 case, and you have the correct thrust washer, you'll need a thin nut to do this. Don't make me take a picture to prove my point now... :D

Does the Sportmaster have a longer shaft, or what? Maybe regular hardware works on those?

I use a big SS washer behind the hut instead of the flimsy sytar washer that goes with the castle-nut style Merc props. Look at the end of the hub. It's less strees on the center of the pressed-in hub when you're in reverse if you use a wide aft washer.

[StratosVT]

I use a big SS washer behind the hut instead of the flimsy sytar washer that goes with the castle-nut style Merc props.

I think this is why I haven't had an issue finding enough thread for the nut. Using a thicker SS washer behind the nut is probably a better idea, but it opens a can of worms with the fit. Then that leads to using an inferior nut to make it work. No matter which way you do it, you're going to be making a compromise.

[pyro]

The aft washer I use is very thin. The thrust washer is the correct one for this purpose, according to everyone who knows, it seems. A thinner thrust washer would allow the outer prop hub casting itself to bottom out on the washer, instead of the brass center of the inner hub, as it was designed to do.

The only conflict here arises from the fact that we're actually putting an OMC prop on a (shorter) Merc shaft, and using a nylock nut instead of the Merc hardware or the "pinned" OMC setup.

Call DAH. They're the SRX experts. Someone posted on here a while back that they had found another good source for the thin nylock nuts, and they's SS instead of the plain galvanized steel ones DAH has. :D

[live2ride31]

i ordered everything from dah and got it today. i cant wait to try out the prop along with the bow cover tomorrow. i would love to see high 70's on the gps. ill find out in less than 12 hours. thanks for all the responses....................................dave