Rude 235 jets

[SweetBoat]

I am rebuilding my '85 235 cross-flow again. Engine was bored to .030 and proV pistons installed. Ring gap was checked and is correct. Carbs are 1 3/8 venturi with #63 main jets. Engine was broken in carefully and then run for approx. 10 hours when piston failure occured. Aluminum from piston was transferred to cylinders. Engine was run max rpm's of 6300. Oil is manually mixed. Does this sound like a lean condition? :confused: I welcome any advice on rejetting carbs. Mirage ski racer. Thanks, rb

[Riverratt]

I can relate. It wasn't #4 was it?
http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114867

[Lockjaw]

According to the BRP website, an 85 235 should be running a 70c main jet.

I would think being 7 sizes under, sounds bad to me.

[racer]

The 70 is for a 235 based XP hence the s in the model number, the standard 235 calls for 63c

[SweetBoat]

This motor is an XP! At least it says so on the cowling!?

[SweetBoat]

This motor is an XP. At least it says so on the cowling!?

[racer]

The carb should have a part number tag attached to a float bowl screw, this will verify. Also what number is on the cyl head? What is your model number?

[Lockjaw]

I guess I need to learn the model numbers. HAHA

[Riverratt]

If it is an 85 XP it should be STLCO on the model # tag on clamp bracket and the heads part #'s should end in 638 and 639

[SweetBoat]

Thanx Ralph, The engine has been repainted by the previous owner and the clamp bracket is gone. We are gonna go with 70's. Ill keep ya posted. Thanx again, RB

[Riverratt]

Like racer asked, what is the part number on the heads? This will determine the big difference between an XP and a regular 235

[EMDSAPMGR]

When you rebuilt it last time, did the pistons have a half circle cut in the skirt? Was the block cut to match the half circle in the piston? Did it originally have composite reeds? Had the engine ports been squared off? Plus the heads. All signs of a 2.6. There is a round welch plug on the top of the port cylinder. About the size of a quarter. Scape the paint off of it and post the model number.

[Morgan's 6-C]

I am rebuilding my '85 235 cross-flow again. Engine was bored to .030 and proV pistons installed. Ring gap was checked and is correct. Carbs are 1 3/8 venturi with #63 main jets. Engine was broken in carefully and then run for approx. 10 hours when piston failure occured. Aluminum from piston was transferred to cylinders. Engine was run max rpm's of 6300. Oil is manually mixed. Does this sound like a lean condition? :confused: I welcome any advice on rejetting carbs. Mirage ski racer. Thanks, rb


Riverratt asked an important question here, about if it was #4.

If not, the 63's do seem significantly on the small side. I ran #72's on a modded 235 and it was very happy.

It's always safer to start fat and work down.....:)

The issue about if it's the #4 hole (I did read Riverratt's thread) strikes home as when I bought my motor, (this was back in the 90's) it had detonation damage at #4, so I did a complete rebuild and some mods. It didn't last the first weekend on the river.

#4 did it's Chernobyl routine twice more without ever getting past the 10 hour breakin before I stumbled onto what finally was the root cause.

After the second rebuild I was still thinking that it was just leaning out for some reason, and stuffed a #76 in that carb......... Didn't help a bit... Got that "Death Rattling" sound between 4000/5000 rpm, and meltdown #3 was back on the trailer.

Knowing it couldn't have been a normal leanout scenario, and having checked the timing on each cylinder (after the first time) looking for variations and finding none, the only conclusion left was a faulty power pac. Either it fired #4 erratically at higher rpms, or it crossfired fired #4 with #2 or #6, as well as when it was supposed to. This would cause a portion of the incoming charge to be burned off prematurely, effecting a lean condition.

Anyway..... after the 3rd rebuild, at which time I put on a new power pack, it ran trouble free for a number of years untill the gearcase expired.

Sometimes the root problem isn't the obvious one.



Darlene

[Riverratt]

I am suspecting power pack as well on mine. Does anybody have the part number for the unlimited power pack?

[SweetBoat]

Thanx, Great info,but the damage that accured was consistant on all 6. Also the little disc plug on top of port cylinders has been removed. Damn!! Non existant.

[Riverratt]

what is the part number of the heads? How far do you have the motor torn down? Do the pistons have the scallops cut in them?

[SRP71]

I am suspecting power pack as well on mine. Does anybody have the part number for the unlimited power pack?


This summer the electronics on my 235 failed slowly one part after the other!! (Packs, Stator, Timerbase) I did have unlimited packs on the rude and I dont think they were CDI because the number on the old packs was 582138. Not sure if thats an OEM or an other off brand maunf P/N. Anyway, The P/N for the CDI umlimited packs is 113-2138 Depending on the year of your motor you will need to update the coils as well. I used CDI coils P/N 183-2508, and used coil primary wire P/N 124. The Primary Coil wires were purchased from Sea Temp Sales as now one else seemed to sell them. The rest of the parts are avail from several sources.

This combination is nice because if you have a coil fail you dont have to splice into existing wires, and the install looks very clean, but what are the chances of the coils failing after replacement if the original ones worked for over 20 years.:rolleyes:

The Ol' 235 is running better than ever now. :D

Hope it helps and good luck:D

[Riverratt]

This summer the electronics on my 235 failed slowly one part after the other!! (Packs, Stator, Timerbase) I did have unlimited packs on the rude and I dont think they were CDI because the number on the old packs was 582138. Not sure if thats an OEM or an other off brand maunf P/N. Anyway, The P/N for the CDI umlimited packs is 113-2138 Depending on the year of your motor you will need to update the coils as well. I used CDI coils P/N 183-2508, and used coil primary wire P/N 124. The Primary Coil wires were purchased from Sea Temp Sales as now one else seemed to sell them. The rest of the parts are avail from several sources.

This combination is nice because if you have a coil fail you dont have to splice into existing wires, and the install looks very clean, but what are the chances of the coils failing after replacement if the original ones worked for over 20 years.:rolleyes:

The Ol' 235 is running better than ever now. :D

Hope it helps and good luck:D
I have the newer syle coils and packs now. My coils are all seperate and the power pack has the 3 caps that go to each coils. Is this what you have? If so what is the unlimited pack number for this style? Do you have a picture of this pack to make sure it is the one I need? Thanks

[SRP71]

Yes I have the same coils, Removable wires w/caps on the primary side with the small post that looks just like the Large Spark Plug post, The P/N I listed for the power pack should work with your setup, All you need to do is swap out the packs you have with the P/N I listed. It works great! Mine was the older style system but it updated with no problems. Just was bummed out when I replaced coils and packs and thought I had solved the problem. It did kind of.. The motor would at least start where as it wouldn't before, and would accelerate very slowly, Then I did more tests and discoverd a failed stator thought I was out of the woods with that... but motor still didn't have its get up and go like before everything failed, Checked the timer base again and discovered it was out of tolerance as well!

I attached some pics and here is the CDI website address:http://rapair.com/LinkClick.aspx?link=downloads%2fCatalog.pdf&tabid=247&mid=789

A lot of good info and part cross references as well.
Take a look at Page 8 in the 2006 Catalog. It shows the power pack. It will bolt up the same as your existing power pack and the pin outs are the exact same as you already have. My coils were so old that I had to update the primary wire with the new style leads so I could run the updated style coils. The coils it did have had the primary lead comming right out of the windings. YUK!! I did have to remove the old coil primary wires out of the existing rubber connector and install the new leads into them but that wasnt bad.

Good Luck, SRP71