Need some boat painting help!

[JASON ALLEN]

I've been sanding on a 1991 Mirage MVP racer for 4 months. I've got to paint the top and bottom of this boat. The top is all that I have sanded so far. The paint on the bottom looks pretty good, and all I was going to do to it was scuff it with a scotch pad(real good). What paint would you all suggest for this boat. I can not afford Imron! I've heard some good things about PPG Concept. What kind of primer would I need that would fill in good. Thanks in advance Bros, Jason A.

[Fast Fig]

Hows it goin dude! If I you'll take some professional advice take a little longer
if needed,stretch,the budget,& buy atleast imron or concept it will cost the same they're equally good and don't cut corners. You waited 4mos., if it takes you a little longer it won't kill you. Start by doing the bottom, it's more of a pain,wether you flip it over or not, then mask a skirt around it,& spray your deck, leave the easiest & lesser spray area for last.(If it's possible for you to budget,use an epoxy primer before you paint) your finish will only be as good as your foundation!!!!!! Good luck Bro. FIG!

[JASON ALLEN]

Theres not anyone in my area that sells Imron. I have however found someone on ebay that has Imron 5000, in 3/4 gallon with activator for a little over a $100.00. How much paint will I need to do this whole boat?
Also can I use any sandable epoxy primer? Thanks, Jason A.

[Fast Fig]

Jason the only thing that concerns me about a mail order purchase is, that hazardous material shipping will be costly, besides not being able to know the shelf life of the product.........don't get stuck with old stock. As far as the primer, I would use a highbuild 2 part epoxy & don't be affraid to load it up, nice & even coats so you can block sand with wet/dry paper. You will have left all that body work sealed underneath & prepped for spraying your top coat on a perfect suface, a new canvas of sorts. I hope after going to this length you're going to wet sand & buff the finish. I don't thin the IMRON myself, I shoot it pure, wet coats & get it to flow just fine.......leaving as much body as possible for the wet sanding. If your not as confident with this, thin it by no more than 10-15% tops, the paint will flow like a charm but will not have as much buildup, I personally rather leave more material on then less.
3/4 gallon plus the quart of activator will = 1gal.+ 10-15% more if you thin
Buy 2 kits, you'll probably use 1.5 gals. total but I rather have overage.........
Buy IMRON fisheye eeliminator or crater x & 1 gal. of prepsol or waxol
Primer 1 gal. kit will give you 2 gals. highbuild don't thin(use a large gun tip)
Before you sand primer dust over it with a black/lacqer as a guide coat, this will enable you to see any pin holes or imperfections, how far you've sanded.
wash everything down with mild soapy water, & wax/silcone remover or prepsol to insure there's no contamination on your surface before painting.
If your gun is right, shoot a little test panel if the mix flows to where your comfterable go for it!!!!!!! IF you have anymore questions of any kind be fore you prep just PM me . PEACE!! FIG

[JASON ALLEN]

Hey Fig, thanks for that info Bro. I'm sure I will be sending you a PM or two. J.A.

[Riverman]

AND use an air supplied respirator. An organic vapour filter will not work. Using the wrong respirator with Imron can cause you to wake up dead.

[The Bilge Idiot]

Hows it goin dude! If I you'll take some professional advice take a little longer
if needed,stretch,the budget,& buy atleast imron or concept it will cost the same they're equally good and don't cut corners. You waited 4mos., if it takes you a little longer it won't kill you. Start by doing the bottom, it's more of a pain,wether you flip it over or not, then mask a skirt around it,& spray your deck, leave the easiest & lesser spray area for last.(If it's possible for you to budget,use an epoxy primer before you paint) your finish will only be as good as your foundation!!!!!! Good luck Bro. FIG! Yeah what he said!!

My o2 - Imron is outdated technology, the new urethanes have better durability, more custom color options, easier to use and a WHOLE lot easier to wetsand and polish. I prefer Glasurit/RM products (if it's good enough for Foose, it's good enough for me):p If you have any ???? I am more than happy to help.
(I have 20+ years experience custom painting boats, aircraft, racecars, cycles etc.)
Here are a couple before and after pics


~Bilge
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[TimTool]

I'm a little old school,and use gelcoat for my top clear.it will hold up much longer,at 80+ on the water you don't want automotive clear on the bottom of your aqua ride and the sun with the added uv reflection from the water will eat at the color,and small scratches are easy to sand and buff out.

[Riverman]

Gel is definitely a better chioce. While car painters may scoff at the idea of regelling, try walking on a paint job with sandy shoes. Gel is way more durable and a lot easier to repair when damaged.

[The Bilge Idiot]

Gel is a lot easier to repair when damaged. DUDE! put the pipe down, you're higher than giraffe nuts!

[Riverman]

See what I mean?

Gel goes on .02" thick, easy to sand out repairs. How thick does paint go on?

[The Bilge Idiot]

So I guess when you say "eaiser to repair when damaged" you mean polishing out a scratch.
There re A LOT of variables as far as the applied thickness of anything! I find it hard to believe that if you were to measure the thickness of gelcoat on ANYTHING - boat or whatever, it would be a uniform .02" thick everywhere:rolleyes: But then again, I'm an idiot.:D

[terry taylor]

HI. What i,m seeing here is preferance , polyurathane paints [imron] and such are shop sprayable with good variety of colors can be used top and bottom for in and out boats also very durable with or without clear-coat option.Gelcoat is a tediouse process step sanding seems to never end so many areas are difficult to level and step rubbing compound.However gelcoat gives one a feeling of originality although very limited color choice . Gloss level is also personal but attianable with both but easier obtain and keep with poyurathane products. My understanding is gelcoat refinish does not have the uv inhibiters of a quality catalist which contains same . had my viper gelcoated at a boat builder facility to see it first is a bit scary and you just know the amount of labour to bring up the gloss hours upon hours.In the end it seemed like i did this boat a real favour a feeling of originality it deserves regardless of the challenge one takes on keep it covered more often than not for obvious element reasons and short periods in water THANKS.

[Riverman]

Good job Terry, I was going to do mine in yellow too, but changed my mind.
I didn't find the sanding process too bad. The idea of having to do so much hand work as opposed to trying to obtain good gloss on the first try is reassuring to an ametuer. Mine turned out pretty good for a first attempt. The deck will be even better, but I am out of comission for a couple of weeks as I just had my appendix out. :mad:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/river_57/DSC01567.jpg

[Jaysawesome80]

Algrip works great.Can be sprayed or rolled.I chose to roll mine so the neighbors dont get to upset.I used a product like algrip called Blue Water Marine, it was a 2 part urethane.I used there high build primer & reducers.Its been 6 months still going strong.It wasnt to expensive i think cost me total including sand paper, 1000.00-1200.00.Very labor intensified. Ive sanded till i fell asleep to prep the boat i also ground all the stress cracks in the gelcoat and filled them.Also removed a 18inX18in hatch in the bow.Lots of Luck and have fun..

[JASON ALLEN]

I have a new problem with hundreds of pen holes in the fiberglass. I've already bought a gallon of z chrome epoxy primer that is suppose to fill in 32 grit sandpaper groves. This stuff cost $100.00, so before I sprayed it on, I wanted to see if you all thank it will fill those in or not? Is there something else I could use before I use the primer? They are all over the boat, and wont fill in with filler to well. Thanks for any help bros. Jason A.

[PROGRESSIVEAUTO]

You may have to skim coat your deck with a plastic filler if it is too bad. I have gotten away with using "Feather Fill" by Evercoat. It is a high build epoxy primer that fills extremely well. Mix up a bit of the primer in which you have already purchased, and give it a try.
I made the mistake one time of having a painted boat media blasted. Talk about pin holes! My brother re-finished that hull, and had to skim coat the entire hull with filler. Turned out awesome though.
Have any questions contact "Lakerider8" on the board. He has been doing this stuff for a lifetime, and knows his stuff!!
Seriously try a test area on your hull with your primer you have already purchased. If it works, great, if not, go to plan B.
Next time scuff your hull with 280 grit, then prime it. You should not get any pinholes with 280.