dead battery with switch off

[euro scott]

i have to charge the batteries after storing for even a few weeks and was wondering how you tell if something is still pulling power even if i switch the battery switch to off, my big cat still has power to the hatch actuator so its hot wired to battery but if i disconnect the batteries totally it holds a charge fine but if i leave them hooked threw the battery switches their dead, is there a current tester available and where would you hook it too too test for current, i replaced the battery switches already and it didnt help.. my sea doo does the same thing although there is not a battery switch, im thinking possibly a starter,key switch ? any suggestions

[gfinch]

Clamp on AMP probe will tell how much. Then with that installed start disconnecting circuts to find which ones are the parasites.
In autos most parasites are the add on stuff, radios,amps alarms ect, that arn't wired correctly. Anything with a diode thats bad, like an altenator. A cigar smoker that uses the cig lighter, list is endless. Just a dirty top of the battery damp can do it.

[HighVelocity]

I set my batteries up like this, and I never have a problem.

Batt 1 is my cranker.

Batt 2 is a deep cycle accessory

I installed an isolator switch to isolate the cranker while at the beach running the stereo etc.

If the deep cycle goes dead, no big deal it won't hurt the battery. If your cranker goes DEAD, big problems. That battery will NEVER hold a charge long again, it is designed to stay constantly charged/ready and give high out put to crank.

Lastly, make sure all your swithed hot items are infact switched at the dash before they go to the component, exept for your tachs witch are keyed hot. This way there is no possible way you can have a draw.

They only 2 things that go directly to the deep cycle are the memory on my stereo and my automatic switch to the bildge pump. THAT's IT.


Gfinch is right, anything that has a diode can cause another draw. For example, when you turn your radio on it comes right on because there is a tiny charge in the radio already. When I flip my dash switch for my radio I actually have to wait a second for it to turn on because there is absolutly no power in it.

I hope this makes sense, and helps.
HV

[Forkin' Crazy]

If the batteries are hooked together, and one has a bad cell, it will pull the other one down.

I just use a test light, unhook the battery from everything, hook the light up to the cables, then then stick the battery pole. If it lights up, you have a draw.

[HighVelocity]

If you have a 1,2,all,all off, type switch when your on "All OFF" the only thing that should draw power is automatic bildge pump switch(Float) if it's wired correctly.

And Yes if you hook a bad battery to good one it will bring it down.

And Yes if you take the postive lead off the battery and jump across with an AMP probe or meter it will show a draw if there is one.

The problem is, what's causing the draw???

If your going from the battery to a distribution block then straight to the accessory's you have to go through the whole block to find the draw..... That Sucks...


Just make sure everything that has a constant hot,, has a dash(Toggle Switch) switch before it and then whatever is causing the draw can't hurt you anymore.


The dash switch(Toggle Switch) is like taking that particular lead off the battery every time. Example's Radio, Running Lights, Stern Lights, cabin lights, GPS, depth finder, dash lights, etc. These should all have there own switch. Some can be grouped onto one switch but not too many.

So it goes,,, Battery,Distribution Block, Dash Switch, Fuse, Accessory.

[euro scott]

thanks all for the ideas, this helps a lot and i think i will start with the simple and go to the complicated, i was looking at the wiring in the dash and just shake my head , it doesnt help thats its 120 degrees in there..
the batteries are coming out tonight and im going to check the cells and then the batery switch wiring and deeper from there
thanks again
scott

[maverick1]

PUll off one of your positive cables, Take a test light ov voltage meter - one pole on positive post and the other on the positive cable ( that you just pulled off that post).

With everthing turned off - the light should be off. If you have any "drain" then you will show some voltage / light even if it may be dim.

IF you have a fuse panel - start pulling fuses - when you get the circuit which is draining the system the light will go out.

If you pull all your fuses and still have a light, your alternator should be your next guess. If any diodes in the alternator / (rectifier - outboard) are out they can create a ground. This ground is UNFUSED and will always drain unless you have battery switch and turn it to OFF.

Mav

[maverick1]

Pull off one of your positive cables, Take a test light or voltage meter - one pole on positive post and the other on the positive cable ( that you just pulled off that post).

With everthing turned off - the light should be off / volatage will read "0". If you have any "drain" then you will show some voltage / light even if it may be dim.

IF you have a fuse panel - start pulling fuses - when you get the circuit which is draining the system the light will go out.

If you pull all your fuses and still have a light, your alternator should be your next guess. If any diodes in the alternator / (rectifier - outboard) are bad they can create a ground. This ground is UNFUSED and will always drain unless you have battery switch and turn it to OFF.

Mav

[gfinch]

Not to start any problems here.
First if you use an shunt type amp meter on a car with air bags it is possable that they will deploy. I know were talking about boats but just to be informed. Put the shunt on the negiative side. Electricity doesn't care where it goes, just that it comes back. Full circle. The type I refered to is the inductive type, clamps around, doesn't require any wire removal.
Second, the keep alive memory is measured in milliamps. It's still a draw just a very small one, or two, or ten, or........everything add's up. Also when reattaching the cable, devices with capacators will charge up creating a large draw at first then tapering off to almost nothing. Light, dimmimg, no light.
Third a test light won't show a low amp draw, but the battery will go dead just the same. Tomorrow I will post a cheep, easily made device you can use with a volt meter which will convert to amps. If someone doesn't beat me to it.
Again, not to throw salt in any open wounds.

[BUSHWACKER]

dirty battery tops, may LOOK clean, it will conduct right across from neg to pos! To check that put 1 probe on a post then run from other across top toward the other slowly, see a draw?, then wash with soap & water. Gotta have good digital meter.

[gfinch]

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/9461/fscn0303ua0.th.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=fscn0303ua0.jpg)

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3264/dscn0296xq7.th.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscn0296xq7.jpg)

http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/9620/untitledam9.th.png (http://img147.imageshack.us/my.php?image=untitledam9.png)

Test lead containes a 1.0 OHM 10 WATT resistor terminated at each end with a large alligator clip a 5 amp fuse is in series with with one allisator clip. A set of DVOM test leads are connected across the 1.0 OHM resister for voltage drop measurement.

Determine key-off drain by the voltage reading on the DVOM(voltage drop across the 1.0 ohm resistor). The voltage reading is equivalent to the ammount if ignition key-off drain flowing through the 1.0 ohm resistor.

For example, if the key-off drain is .02 amps (20 mili amps) the voltmeter will read .02 volts. If key off drain is 1.0 amp the voltmeter will read 1.0 volt. 3 amps 3 volts ect.
A key off drain of .1 amp or more (DVOM reads .1 volt) requires repair.

With the tester installed start removing a fuse at a time to see where the load is.

Radio shack or an electronics supply should have this stuff.
DVOM = Digital Volt Ohm Meter
Remember negative removed first and installed last.

Hope this helps.

[HighVelocity]

Guys, I think our friend maybe in a little over his head here. Behind the dash can be very scary if you don't know what your looking at.

I would recommend that you find a someone who is good with a meter/amp probe, and can help you troubleshoot your dash accessories so they don't cause a draw. Second I would make sure your battery switch is isolating your batteries in the OFF position. Your right about the heat too, usually these are good spring and fall projects.

Good Luck

[euro scott]

wow so much input on this subject its getting to be the forest thru the trees deal..
if it ever stops freaking raining here maybe i can put all this advise to practice, 5 inches of rain each day the last 2 days and it started today at 3:30 in the afternoon, all i could get done last night was the antenae for the stv, 4200ed in before the monsoon hit and was putting covers back on in blinding rain
gotta love south florida this time of year !
maybe take the one suggestion , "take it to a shop and throw more money"