How to break-in a fresh motor?

[pyro]

I searched on the topic all the way back through 2003 with very little success. What's the "by-the-book" method for breaking in a freshly re-built Nic motor such as my Bridgeport? I want to do this right and make it last. I've got a couple gallons of Merc Premium Plus oil waiting to be mixed. I need to know specifics: What RPM's for how long, hose vs. neutral vs. in-gear running. Chugging along slow, or barely on plane, stuff like that.

Thanks in advance...

[Wolverine]

Lots of opinions on this one I'm sure. I usually run mine on the hose for 15+ minutes to flush it out, then back it into the launch and run it on the trailer for another 15+ minutes in gear to give it a slight load and to get some heat into the motor..........raising the RPM's to around 2000 momentarily or you can just launch the boat and do the same thing while enjoying the scenery and your favorite beverage;) . Let it cool down. Then go out and run it with some common sense......don't stab the throttle or make any full throttle passes....... for one tank of break-in mix. After that.......run it as normal.

[SUPAJAY]

Ive always been told to run it the way it will be ran for its life.

[us1]

I basically agree with Rob. I slowly increase the RPM hour after hour until 10 hours is up. The biggest trick I know for a good break-in is to let the motor cool over night after each 2-hour run. This lets the pistons and cylinders cool totaly and change shape without scoring.

[1BadAction]

During break in, mix oil and gasoline at a 40:1 Ratio (I would mix 25:1 with that motor, since it doesnt have a "break in mode")

Always vary throttle setting during break-in.

First 2 hours of operation

avoid wide open throttle
avoid full throttle acceleration
avoid remaining at a constant speed for more than 2 minutes
avoid sustained idle or running below 1500 rpm1st hour - do not exceed 1/2 throttle or 3500 RPM
2nd hour - do not exceed 4500 RPM
Hours 3-10 Do not operate at wide open throttle for more than 2 minutes

:cool:

[Ted Stryker]

These are the common recommendations for a new engine... I've wondered if the same tactics apply to a rebuilt engine... I know that the rings and bores will require the same treatment as a new one, but what about the work hardeneing of the journal and bearing surfaces.. A rebuilt engine using the same rotating assembly has a rotating parts that are essentially already broken in... So what does it take just to break-in the rings and bores...

[us1]

10 hours on a motor you want to last a long time and have good leak down.

[Juggernaut]

there is a lot of controversy on this topic. some people belive you should double oil mixture and do basically what BadAction posted. others belive after letting it warm up, whomp the **** out of it. allegedly it helps seat the rings. thats about all i know so im going to leave it at that.

[Reaction19]

I Always Let The Moror Come Up To Operating Temp The First Time While I Look It Over And Make Sure Everything Is 100% And Their Is No Leaks And Check Timing And Fuel Press. Then Let It Cool Off And. Run It Easy For A Little While So It Build A Little Carbon Then I Hold It Wide Open And Cruise Back And Forth A Couple Of Times To Build Heat And Cool Off It Helps Seat The Rings Fast. Then After A Couple Of Times I Let Her Eat. I Never Double The Oil Up I Feel It Is Unneccessary And Doesnt Let The Rings Seat. I Do How Ever Jet Just On The Rich Side To Be Safe And Then Bring It Back Down Till I Get Her Right On The Money. I've Done This Numerous Times And Had Great Success With No Failures. But This Is How I Do It Everyone Should Do What They Are Comfortable With.

[rocket1]

Her is what my 2005 outboard operation manual says, the little black book you get when you buy new. With efi you do not need to pre mix gas. First hour, Allow engine to warm up 30-60 secs. Avoid continuous operation at idle speed for more than ten mins. Run the engine majority of the time between 3000 and 4500 rpm. Vary engine speed, change speed every 2 mins. Avoid trimming outboard out beyond vert. position. Short burst of full throttle for periods up to ten secs. are acceptable. Next three hour change speed every ten minutes. Hope that helps?? Greg

[pyro]

Keep in mind, I'm specifically asking about COATED motors (Nicom/Nicasil, etc)

John, give me some more details. Tell me more about those ten hours. I'm not even sure I can plane off without exceeding 4000 rpm, I can't recall.

[us1]

Keep in mind, I'm specifically asking about COATED motors (Nicom/Nicasil, etc)



I was just going to point that out. If you email me I will email you detailed instructions on how I break-in a high performance lake motor. The first 10 hours is to break-in the pistons and cylinders. The rings will seat after 10 hours when you open it up and builds heat. us1@sbcglobal.net

[T-REX]

Cold, HOT, cold, HOT.....I'll give ya what haz been 100% on time for me so far...Now I built a stand, specifically for break'in in a mota(which also works good for runn'in a stored power head)...If the engine haz new forged pistons, I fire it on 40:1 mercury premium blend oil, and regular gas...1200rpm for 30 min @ 160*...Kill and let water circulate thru it for 1 hour...Fire, for anuther 30 min, and repeat cooldown.....6 thirty min runs, and cooldowns, then 3 one hour runs @ 1500rpm, with temps at 180*, and 2 hour cooldowns...Once that is complete, it's put on the boat, and hits the water with 20gallons of 20:1 oil/fuel mix, keep'in rpm under 5K, but up and down, not holding in one rpm range....after that 20 gallons iz gone, it will take any thang U kan dish out(From a break'in stand piont)....

Az juss fer new rings, I run the mota on tha stand for 3 ,30minute runs and cooldowns, and a 1 hour run, more for my satisfaction than anythang, because the rings will be break'in in for a while to kum...3 hours on the stand without a load will bring forth any problems, if I have screwed sumpth'in up while assembling tha mota, so tha owner ov tha powerhead knows it's runn'in, and in work'in order when he leeves tha shop, and so do I....

Juss my 2 cents on tha matter...Rite or wrong, it haz worked for me, and haz cut the amount ov stuck wiesco's damm neeer ta zero!!!

[twinrigskier]

break it in like your gonna use/race it!

[Hydrasports205]

I got REX to run mine on the stand and then followed his procedure - of course mine's a steel bore motor. I've got about 15 hrs on it and it's runnin like a scolded dog.:D

[us1]

Steel bore. Hot and cold is the way to go.

[oldstv]

How long can you run a drag mtr b-4 it needs new rings??

[RBT]

till the leakdown is bad......... is the short answer
long, depends on single or 2 ring. And that is kinda a trick question answer as the pistons and the rings have a life not a lot different if you are turning real rpm.

RT

[oldstv]

I was seeing this 10 hour break-in and thinking I can't get 10 hours run time between replacing rings...

[RBT]

The champ motor builder I use, cycles his pistons out at 10 hours.... actually 2 races.

RT

[pyro]

Steel bore. Hot and cold is the way to go.

Ah yes, but is the temp cycling more of a key component of a coated bore too? This motor in particular has stock pistons with new rings and new bore plating...

[us1]

A lake motor is not going to ware out its pistons and rings in 10 hours unless there is a serious lubrication or assembly problem.

[RBT]

Or you turn huge RPM.

RT

[us1]

True, but I am talking about lake motors.

[pyro]

This motor is running stock used pistons, how important is the amount of break-in time when only the rings and the nicasil have to seat?

I have been breaking it in on Premium Plus 25:1, against the advice of some. I idled on the hose for 1/2 hour, cooled overnight, I ran it in gear on the trailer at fast idle for 1/2 hour, I cooled it overnight, then ran it on plane under 3000 rpm for an hour, cooled it, ran it under 4000 for an hour, cooled it, ran it mostly under 5000 for the last hour, with some brief, occasional soft, easy pulls to 6000 rpm and back. Mostly just cruising 3000 to 4500, varying the throttle. I have put probably 4 hours on the motor so far. I know I have burned 60 gallons of fuel so far, probably 80 gallons by the end of this holiday weekend.

It has lots of power, it begs to be throttled. I can't wait...

[Hydrasports205]

for the love of god chad run the damn thing!!!!!!!!!!!!:D

[RBT]

Pyro,
That is exactly how I break my motors in. I agree in the premium plus oil, though I run a 32:1 all the time as there is plenty of oil. I like the fact that you heat cycled the motor, this in my world is key. I have never had much luck breaking in with synthetic, as I find the cylinders glaze, I get a better seal the way you are doing it. At this point I would switch over to Alisyn, Klotz, or Merc Hi-per oil at 32:1 ( even 40:1 if you are going to stay under 8k ) and start having some fun.
Don't hold it wide open for long but you can start to give it hell. A few more tanks, say 50 gallons and you are ready to really string it out.
Proper warm up and cool down help a lot.

RT

[pyro]

OK, I asked my co-worker to fetch me just 2 more gallons of Premium Plus then. I'll switch to Pennzoil 100% Synthetic after that.

[RBT]

Na, switch over now
NOT a fan of the Pennzoil......... at least it is not Amscam:eek:

[pyro]

What's wrong with Pennzoil???

[RBT]

Rings seem to last longer with the other oils

RT

[1BadAction]

alisyn is a proven oil, for $30 a gallon ya cant beat it...

[pyro]

...and only slightly cheaper than the HP Merc oil. :confused:

[Wolverine]

What's wrong with Pennzoil???
Let's put it this way..........which oils do most racers use at any sanctioned event? You'd be hard pressed to find anyone running Pennzoil........nuff said.

[Slider]

It has been said in the past not to use Penzoil for break in. Once you are past that, popular opinion is it is good stuff. I have used it for the last 3 years without any problems. As far as the race stuff... ever read the label on a quart of Klotz... Something about not using it for regular use raises a flag for me.