whats wrong?????

[wattalaser2.4]

hey guys, me again. still trying to get the power loss on my 2.4,carbed 200. was losing lots of power, started out as slight and gradually got bad over a couple of months. last weekend on the lake, was not running good at all, worse yet. went to start the motor and the crankin battery barely turned for a sec then dead, would not crank. had my trusty lil' jumper cables and hooked them to my hot trolling batteries ( all batteries had been fully charged) and fired right up and for the first time sounded great, blasted of great and ran good for a mile and slowly went right back to the power loss by the time i got to the ramp. got a brand new battery, more amps than the other. took it to my local dealer and he said try it with the new battery. maybe the elecrtic pump lost pressure with the weak battery. well got on the water and fired right up and ran great, power and rpm's was back. man was i happy. loaded up and went home, next time out ran great, but right before i got back to the ramp all of asudden it lost power, not as bad , kinda like its not getting enough fuel. what could this be? i'm out of things to try, any suggestions on this would be greately apprecciated. thanks bryan.......



















:D :D :D

[woodco]

Did ya check or replace yur fuel filter ????

[wattalaser2.4]

thanks for the advice, yes, installed a new complete fuel filter. also replaced all fuel lines, replaced water seperator and new plugs. the first and only thing that made a difference was the new battery. its still running better than it did, but seems to be slowly losing power again. did compression check (local dealer) and hd 145- 150 in each cylinder. the boat sat in my uncles heated garage for ten years and was hardly used, maybe 1-2 times per summer. could something have dry rotted or deteriated once i started putting it to more use? like i said it ran great the first month of weekend running, ran 84 mph at around 7000. noe its down to around 5900 b/fore new battery. after new battery i'll get around 6200 when it starts acting up. thans, bryan....

[wattalaser2.4]

the compression check i just had done revealed i had 145-150 per cylinder. i just read an ol' thread where someone said that if you have 135-140 lbs you should use 93 octane (which i do) always. he said to run a good synthetic mix at 40:1, well i've been using a 50:1 mix and not a synthetic blend, i've been using quicksilver oil since i got the boat. could this be a problem or maybe hard on plugs? thanks for your help, bryan......

[woodco]

Ya got some stale gas left in the tank..... If they put it to rest with fuel and no stabilizer that will cause a problem. It's either bad fuel
or an electrical problem. Check the fuel situation first.... Take the
new filter off and check for debris.Also how does the fuel smell ???

[wattalaser2.4]

thanks mr. guru, could this be the problem even after i've ran ten or so tanks of fuel already? first five or so times out this thing ran great, really fast. its just gradually gotten worse. if electrical what would you guys recomend i start with to try to eliminate this problem? i'll check the filter again but it seems to be ok on previous checks. it seems like such a simple problem yet i can
't seem to solve it:confused: thanks for all your help, bryan...

[Greg Moss]

First what is the voltage doing? Have you check the charging with a volt meter? Next where is you fuel pump? You have a bass boat how much water gets around all the battery connections? It sounds to me you have something like the Fuel pump motor is getting hot and dragging the battery down. I find on a lot of fishing boats that the electrical connections (butt splices) Get corroded and the connections will burn through or get hot. then you have a brown out effect. A motor will run at the speed it is designed to run at by having the correct voltage. If the connection is bad there is a voltage drop at the connection and the motor will get the wrong voltage to run. AS a result the motor will draw more current(amp) to run The more Amps the more heat and the motor will start to fail. Draining the battery and the new battery has more amp available to turn the motor most 24 group batteries have 750 amps trolling motor batteries have 850-1000amp. If you think the electrical is a problem with fuel I would check all connections and try a different pump.

[lsidonis@msn.com]

The first thing I would do, if you haven't already, is clean the carbs. Especially since it was laid up so long. I have seen it happen with many motors that were laid up a LONG time. The varnish gets so hard it peels up and floats around in there causing erratic problems. Gradually getting worse as it works its way into places it shouldn't be. This should be done anyway. If you get just one jet blocked you will lose the motor. Don't risk it.

The electical problem could be a co-existing problem. Check that as Greg suggested. Any cheap multi-meter will do. Just check across the battery terminals. Should have about 12.3V idle and about 14V running. If less than about 13.5V or more than 15V you have a problem which can cause it to run badly. These voltages should be close, guys correct me if needed. If your voltage regulator is bad that too can cause it to run bad, and again could fry the motor if unchecked.

Just remember until you get your problem solved to take it easy on the motor. These things if not running right on can be toasted real easy. I would probably run about 30:1 until you sort out the problem, keep the rpm's down, don't run it at a "set" throttle position, and run as little as poosible. DONT run around the lake just because you are there, until you get it fixed.

Good Luck

[wattalaser2.4]

you know the crankin batter was not that old yet it went dead, this may be that the fuel pump mnotor may be getting hot and dragging down the battery. is this commen? the pump is probably the original from 87, its a holley electric pump and also has the original regulator. the jets have been removed and look fine, no trash that we could find. should i still clean the carbs? is it a hard thing to do , what will i need to do this? where do i hook the meter to do the voltage tests? running a 30:1 mix is new to me, but i don't know that much. is that not to little oil? i'll try to do this tomarrow if i can, could you walk me through the carb cleaning process and will i need gaskets? man you guys are a great help, i would have never thought of trying these things. thanks Scream & Fly and all you who take the time to help. thanks, bryan watt....... 865-675 5379 or if you would like to leave a # i would gladly call you to chat about this. you can leave it at - wattoffun@aol.com if you want to.

[lsidonis@msn.com]

You can check voltage at the battery. + to +, - to -. You may have a combination of problems. Even if you find your immediate problem to be the voltage regualtor you should still clean the carbs. They can be really dirty and the mains can look clean. The reason I said to run 30:1 until you get it sorted out is that the motor is lubricated by the fuel mixture. If there is a fuel restriction to any cylinder the bearings and piston on that cylinder is not being lubricated. Run it as little as posible until fixed.

I hate to say this as I will probably take some flak for it, but the best thing you could do would be to get a factory manual for that motor, about $30.00. It tells you how to check and repair all the components. In addition to the manual just use common sense. Make sure every thing is clean. That is on the first page. You shouldn't re-use gaskets so have new ones on hand. Review the manual then when you are ready get a stool and put it right next to the motor and follow the procedure. Sometimes the pictures in the manual are worth a thousand words.

First things to look for in the manual would be how to check the Voltage regulator. And them how to rebuild the carbs. It's not as hard as it looks. In the manual too are complete trouble shooting charts and the apropriate diagnostic procedures, (what to check and in what sequence).

About the only special tool you would need would be a DVA adaptor and a cheap muti-meter. You'll see in the manual why you need it. You can get a DVA pretty cheap at: http://www.esitest.com/cart/mmse.html
You can pick up a cheap multi-meter most places like Wal-Mart. They have a digital for about $18.00, ESI sells the DVA for $35.00.
Buy the DVA adaptor first as it fits most but not all multi-meters.

With about $90.00 for the manual and the multi-meter with the DVA adaptor you will be surprised at what you can do.

There are several guys on this board that can help you with any of the gaskets and parts you may need. You'll need 3 carb rebuild kits, which will have all the gaskets you will need. You'll need your serial number to get the right ones, as well as to get the right manual.

Good Luck!

[Greg Moss]

Carbs are not the problem if you put a new battery in and it runs good then the carbs are fine. You can rebuild them if you want after we figure out the problem. If when you start to feel to power lose feel the fuel pump if it feels real hot I would think it would need replacing. I would go to get a cheap multimeter and start checking the wiring. If you start with the positive meter lead on the positive battery post and the negative at the first connection read the voltage and it should be very low. go to the next connection if it is at the fuel pump thats ok check it .It should be low also. check across the fuel pump it should be almost battery voltage. If you have a high reading anywhere other than the fuel pump you have a bad connection and this is what will burn your pump up. You need to figure out what is causiong the battery problems before you start trying to fix problems that may not be there.

[Arizona Hotboater]

I must admit I didnt read this thread in detail, only skimmed it, but doesnt this sound like a stator problem? If the stator is not putting out sufficient power, the battery wont charge. Further, the ignition system will draw from the battery if the stator cant produce enough power to run it. Like a car with a bad alternator....the ignition will run off of the battery. Soon the directional signals, horn, and other electrical items are weak and the engine loses power. A new battery will bring everything back to par until the new battery is drained.

If its killing batteries and losing power, check the stator.
AZH

[Greg Moss]

AZH there are 2 parts to the stator one run the ignition and the other charges the battery. He is having a batttery problem he need to make sure the voltage out of the stator is right and that all his wires to his battery and fyel pump are good. Nice try though Now go finnish your boat i want to hear a 95 MPH out of you. Greg

[Arizona Hotboater]

Greg Moss ....Greek God of outboards....... How fortunate we are to have you come down from Mount Olympus to help mere mortals with our 2 stroke woes......Hee hee! ;)

I guess a car motor and an outboard arent the same animal. I think I made good sense, unfortunately I was wrong. (I hate that!)

I hope to have it all together shortly and I figure if I was getting 83 on GPS with only 5 cylinders, 95 mph may be a bit shy of its potential. You will be the first to know. After all the help youve given me over the last couple of years, I owe ya that much.

Have a great week my friend,
Marc AZH

[wattalaser2.4]

thanks for the info. i'll give these things a try. may take a little while but i'll let you guy's know what happens? thanks again and if ya come up with any thing else let me know. bryan....