Old Merc Steering (help!!)

[sdechaney73]

trying to figure out how to attach dual-cable steering to an old 77 merc 1750. Transom bracket is different from the newer stuff, has a couple extra "ears" on the front which I asume is for the cable tube. There are no holes to attach a bracket to, only grease zerks. These pics look familiar to anyone??

[Rickracer]

I'm not at the shop now, but I can hook you up with whatever you need for that setup, and at the very best prices. Shoot me an email when you get a chance, and I will send you pics and prices of what you need. I might even have a used one kicking around. :cool:

[joegucci]

I have a 1980 Merc 175 with the same ears on the transom bracket. The hull I put it on had a dual cable steering setup, so I fabricated some brackets out of Aluminum and bolted them into place, to allow the second cable to fit in front of the existing one.

This setup works well, however I do have alot of play in the cables (pinion gear in steering) and have yet to solve the problem with torque steer above 50MPH (need both hands on the wheel and feet well planted to the floor, elbows on knees).

Rickracer can you email me any parts I need for this setup and a price?

Thanks.:cool:

[Glenn]

Maybe this will help... I have a 1978 Mercury 1750. It's got dual cable steering. This is picture of the steering right after I bought it. It had a Teleflex dual cable system in there then the rack gave out at the end of the season. Last summer I changed to dual cable Teleflex NFB Pro system. Works great. No steering torque.

One problem I've always had. The steeering binds when I have it tilted right up. Works like butter at normal trim angles. Old system did that too, but worse. Could it be the rod with swivel that attaches to the steering arm? Theres a brass bushings in there and it's really stiff.

Glenn

[Rickracer]

What happening is the rod end at the tiller arm is in a bind at full tilt. Shouldn't be a problem unless you need that much trim to fly the bow :D :D :D

[dan agnew]

on the early merc dual steer hookup such as you got the mid of the clamp bracket tilts but the steering is anchored to the clamp bkts and they do not move so you are twisting the steering arm when you trim/tilt the unit. the later style hooks up to the swivel bkt and when trim/tilt the dual steering tubes tilt with the swivel bkt.
sdechaney73, i can sell you the no feed back pro rack 12 foot system for 350.00 plus ft.

Danny

[Glenn]

Thanks Rickracer and Danny. Scatching my head for a while on that one!

If you're thinking of the NFB system sdechaney73 I can tell you it was a snap to put in and like I said, no torque. You might notice a bit of play in the wheel but from what I understand this is a byproduct of the no feedback clutch in the helm. You don't even notice it.

Glenn

[sdechaney73]

Glenn, your picture was EXACTLY what I needed to see. Looks like I just need that extra tube. Did You have to drill out the ears,Or was that part of the original setup? My stream has the opposed cable setup, so Im sure I could just flip that tube and viola! -Im gonna stick with the opposed ride guide-people tell me its awesome. Rickracers trying to hook me up with a kit, but If that tubes all I need... hopefully that will be easy to come by. Thanks again!!

[dan agnew]

sdechaney73, by all means use the merc system you do NOT want the no feedback system on a v-hull boat. the system has what i call a hump you must overcome must be the clutch arrangement that makes a v-hull hard to drive. seems the steering delay built into the system makes you overcome and overdrive the boat

Danny

[sdechaney73]

Dan, I know just what you mean. I helped put that setup on an old 16 ft baja last summer. Just couldnt ever seem to get all the play out of it. Local dealer said "thats as good as it gets" This thing had a pretty stout 2.4 on it and gave new meaning to the term "death boat" My buddy sold it after claiming to see God a couple times too many!!:D

[Rickracer]

I have several of them lying around. Depending on whether you are dual same side or dual opposed, you're going to need the hardware to attach the ends of the cables to the tiller arm. If you have same side, there is a "tee or bridge" that both cables attach to (parallel), and has a link arm that goes from there to the tiller. If you are opposed, you'll have a bracket that bolts to the tiller, and two link arms going out to each side and attaching to the cables. I suppose you could fab all of these parts, but how much is your time worth, how much is the raw materials, and how good are you with stainless steel?:cool:

[sdechaney73]

Looks like that tube will do me- I can re-use my attaching arms and hardware from the previous 100 merc. E-mail me with what you need for the tube and shipping( a used one will be just fine) and Ill get some $$$ headed your way. Sounds like you might pick up a couple extra customers as well. About those new cables, are they much to change on the helm end? Havent looked at the helm closely- boat is still upside down in the garage... Thanks again:D

[Rickracer]

I'll need to know what kind of helm unit you have and the length to quote you on the cables. :cool:

[sdechaney73]

Ive e-mailed ya the info. That sounds great. I have the Mercury ride guide rotary style helm, thus far thats all I know. Ill find the cable lengths tomorrow night after I wipe some of the grease off the things.

[sdechaney73]

AS YOU CAN SEE FROM THAT PIC, I HAVE A LOT OF WORK TO DO!!!!:confused:

[Rickracer]

:D :D :D