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  1. #16
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    I am not a dealer so I don't know this for sure but my guess is you will only find direct injection or four stroke being manufactured due to the epa issues. Promax was offered in a 2.5 from 150 to 225. In 3.0 it went up to 300. As far as what mounts and lowers were offered I have no clue. I know the xs motors were made in both 2.5 and 3.2 configurations. That's all I got.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

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  3. #17
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    All the Promax motors had solid mounts. My old one has a CLE but eventually they changed to sportys.

    There are fishing XS, Pro XS with stiffer mounts, and Mercury racing XS with solid mounts and Sportmasters. Too confusing for me. There are only two XS motors that will work on my boat so I only think about 2.

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  5. #18
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    Thanks Rock and David. So XS doesn't mean much. Have to ask lots of questions to make sure you know what you're looking at.

    Re: Promax, I thought I had seen reference to 260 or 280hp?

    More searching found this site. Ends in 1996 though. http://www.maxrules.com/models/Merc_...es/HIPERF.html

  6. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tango View Post
    I would LOVE to find a resource of info to determine all the differences on just the 3.0L & 3.2L stuff. I have two 1998 300X Promax motors which pretty much nothing is interchangeable to any 2.5L stuff nor has much performance value other than being a heavier grunt ultimately for my Flats boat.

    I also have two 3.0L 225 Optimax motors which I am learning are simply identical to a 250hp Opti with just the ECU being different and the RPM limits higher on the 250hp model.

    What makes the 225/250hp Optis an "XS" model?

    Will just swapping to a stroker 3.2L crank make a 225/250 motor into a 300XS with the proper reflash or ECU?

    I am currently building my 21 Eliminator Daytona as a center-steer boat to run the 2018 Parker Enduro to which a new Enduro was just announced for April 2018... so the plan is a 3.0/3.2L Opti powerhead on Scott Porta's exhaust mid adaptor and a 2.5L 15" mid with the fat shaft offshore LH sporty.

    Thoughts? Suggestions?
    early EFI models with the dual ecu setup are very similar. 225/250/300 same block 225/250 same sleeves 300pm slightly different chamfer on the exhaust port.
    built up to mid year 2001. However there's and exception... the 250xb. It was built from 2000-mid 2003. same block as above but different sleeves with out the compression relief slot on the top of the exhaust port (cat eye). A few different sets of head the best being the 300pm C-10 heads. Most of the 225's had 2 butterfly intakes until the end then they started getting the 4 butterfly like the 250/300's.

    Late EFI are the ones with the Motorola box like a 300X. The blocks 200/225/250 are the same the sleeves are different in each HP. Ecus are different also. The best heads are the 300x models it the -30 part number next to the bottom spark plug hole. the 200/225/250 had the same intake and injectors 300x had different. other models had the same flywheel where the 300x has a light weight 12lbs version.

    OptiMax models have both an early and late model version. The biggest difference in the consumer motors compared to the XS and Pro XS are not only the ignition system by the fuel system (injectors and regulators on the rails)

    The 225 opti in not identical to the 250 opti! The block(not sleeves), rods, flywheel, reed plate, horn, alternator, starter are about it if you are referring to new style....

    Sticking a 3.2L crank in a 225/250 will not yield a 300xs other things need to be modified just to fit. A standard consumer motors needs lots of changes. A 250xs is similar on the later model 250's with the 5 wire coils. Exhaust port chamfer is slightly higher on the 300. Change the crank, heads and ecu.....



    Since you asked! My thoughts sell the other motors and just buy a 300xs. Why would you run a 2.5L sporty? A 3L/3.2L powerhead needs water volume, not pressure like the little pump from a 2.5 puts out.... If you look at Scotts prototypes on Nick's Shadow pirate DW32 you'll see 3L sportmasters.

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  8. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DangerNewb View Post
    Thanks Rock and David. So XS doesn't mean much. Have to ask lots of questions to make sure you know what you're looking at.

    Re: Promax, I thought I had seen reference to 260 or 280hp?

    More searching found this site. Ends in 1996 though. http://www.maxrules.com/models/Merc_...es/HIPERF.html
    XS is supposed to mean it's the race version. it's more than just solid mounts. the main part of the powerhead is a higher air fuel pressure with stronger grey air injectors. the revlimiters are set higher, carbon reeds, and depending on the model higher compression motors. (different heads and pistons)

  9. #21
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    The 260 and 280s were different from the 225 Promax. More power, higher revving, no oil injection, rebuild at 100-130? hours. 260 had 16A charging, 280 was 40A. 16 isn't enough for a cottager like me.

    XS is race version unless it's Pro XS.

  10. #22
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    Coming back around to this thread. Getting the Seebold Ski Eagle w/out power this weekend. Considering an 02 200XS with fat shaft sportmaster shipped from out of the area. Also considering a 2.4 carbed fishing motor with higher compression heads, larger carbs, ROS mid and CLE lower. Obviously 2 different price points.

    Are all the sportmasters fat shaft? The gear case looks larger than a through hub prop. Any issues with such a large gear case? Or, that's the way all of them are?

    The 2.4 carbed motor is more local to me and much cheaper. Seller says it has about 20 hours since new pistons, rings, bearings etc. The 200XS is very low hours but not far off double the money with shipping.

    Looks like Mercury only offers a 250XS now. Any thoughts on how the 200XS would compare. Guess I'm a little concerned if it is truly 200hp might not perform all that great on the Seebold. Seller says he was getting high 80's with a 225 promax on it. I'd like to see 80-85.

    Thanks for any thoughts.

  11. #23
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    If you boat a lot you will make up the extra coin in fuel savings with the xs. As stated earlier the xs will deliver way more torque than a non direct injected motor which makes a world of difference.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  12. #24
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    Older sporties were small shaft, they have been fat for a long time now. Some years ago I bought a used 225 Promax. Great motor. I did break the propshaft on the CLE and found that was common on old CLEs.

    2.5L 200XS or Promax is the way to go. Unless of course your boat can handle the weight of a 3L

  13. #25
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    You guys are running into what almost all of us have at one time or another, there are no good single sources of information out there (that I know of anyways). A lot of old wives tales floating around about coated bore race motors, cooling, lower units, etc etc and a lot of good info scattered all over the internet, but nothing in a single place. You pretty much need to read and figure out the guys that run this stuff day in and day out, then listen to them. You can learn more at one boating event than you can in 6 months on the internet, so you may want to check one out also.

    My advice is anything that you buy, make sure it's stock. Then you know it hasn't been assed up. Usually where there are bass boat guys you can get some decent deals on clean outboards.
    > Stainless steel Merc cowling plates - $110 shipped TYD - LINK <

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  15. #26
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    Thanks for the advice guys. Yes, I would prefer a nice stock xs or Promax in my local area. But, there's a 2.4 carb motor recently rebuilt with ROS mid and CLE gearcase listed close to me at a reasonable price. Considering picking it up. I know the carb motor won't make the torque of the fuel injected 2.5 engines but the seller says it runs his Mirage mid 90s. It has high compression heads and larger than stock carbs. I know it will suck gas but I only burn 10--15 gallons on my typical trip to the lake so it would take years to make up the difference in fuel. Yes. I know it's not stock and could be assed up as folks say but I've talked with the seller and he seems like a straight up guy. Says it was built by a good mechanic. Could be a way to satisfy my objective of getting into a 80 to 85 mph boat for the time being. My question is, can anyone comment on whether a Promax powerhead would bolt onto the ROS mid without too much trouble if I wanted to upgrade later? Later after I blow this one up! I realistically would put about 15 hours a year on it so it may run for a very long time for me. I play around on motocross bikes, street track bikes, mountain bikes etc. So boating is a once or twice a month thing for me. And I don't desire to run 100 mph, in a boat. Just have a little fun. Thanks.

  16. #27
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    I don't see why the PM 225 wouldn't bolt right on that mid. If the PM you get is stock, be sure to get the exhaust plates and tuner.

    The 2.4 on a light V bottom will perform as good as the 2.5 with similar HP. The carb motors run as hard as the EFI motors, just a little cleaner maybe.

    jus my .02
    James H. W2F a V-King... Want 2 Fly a V-King

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    My Project 1979 V-King restore >> http://hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2761

  17. #28
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    If your boat can handle a 3 liter and you are on a budget buy a 250xs. If it cant handle a 3 liter than get a 200xs. Both are newer technology and reliable. You can get a scan tool for not too much coin to figure out any problems if necessary. Great hp and alot less fuel. Trust me...it is better to cry for a short time now than cry a long time later. Now, if you are a handy guy with tools, then an older promax will be a decent choice.

  18. #29
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    there's a couple 2005 2.5 xs in the engine sales. i have 2 200xs and have alway wanted the 2.5 . its a 2.5l m otor and 3.0l LU. on a tunnle the 2.5 saw 105.

  19. #30
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    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

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