2.4 stock crank and piston no porting
150 ish compression (shaved the heads)
mod v.p. cross drilled intake with 5 pedeal worked cages
removed exhaust can and installed modified tuner
once we installed some 50's on air and 92's on gas bumped timming, runs like a spotted a$$ ape. running a little rich, turning a worked 24 chopper 7000 rpm's @ 74+ mph (gps) on a 1986 18' skeeter starfire fish and ski fully rigged.
i think the cross drilled helped the mid range and top end, mainly the mid, it has a lot more punch after 3000, and revs up faster, you will read in other posts that people feel that it hurts bottom end and is hard to get it to idel, i don't agree, idels fine, starts right up on fisrt turn of the key, maybe a small amount of bottem end is affected, but not enough to noticed. hope this helps
still fine tuning.
Last edited by fastskeeter; 12-29-2004 at 12:12 PM.
I have a factory cross drilled 7/14 petal intake on my 2.4, idles like s*** at about 1600rpm, wh 15's, and hole shot sux!!!
Originally Posted by T-REX
Dave, if you D port the pistons(which I recomend) also drill the F/P holes bigger...I go to 1/2", cuz the F/P' are about 1/2" wide...with the Dport and larger holes, U will feel the diffrence...You can also add a Crossdrilled manifold for sum extra kick from 3500 up...BUT, it will effect the bottom end purdy much...maked low end tuning a nightmare...Big rods don't show me anything except weight...I have never had a lil rod break(yet)...now, the Top guide rods will make more HP(bet ya didn't know a rod would make HP)...the top Guide haz less friction and keeps the rod in the center of the piston, thus less piston wobble...I also heard the big rods stuff the crank, If it does, it ain't enuff to overcome the extra weight, cuz theres no new numbers...OH, heres tha **** stirrer, I like the square 2.5 long offshore tuner...It will help out the bottom and iz big enuff to allow high rpm...Now, git ya ass out ther and cut that grass so yo better half can git finished weedeating... REX