Rebuild Questions on OMC, Evinrude FICHT

[Team Jefe]

Hello and Merry Christmas to all. This is not the way I wanted to introduce myself to the board, but I have a little problem with an outboard, and my good buddies Fish & Woodsy told me to post it here as this is the place of the outboard Guru’s.
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I did some research on past posts about motor rebuilds and got a wealth of good info. Marking, bagging, inspections, encouragement, etc., but I did notice most of the posts were related to Mercs…..and I have OMC, and I’m curious about specific issues related to OMC rebuilds.
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OK, specs: 2000 model, Evinrude FICHT Ocean Pro, 225 HP, approx. 475 hours

I run 87 Octane Fuel (Chevron & Shell mostly) and TCW-3 oil, several brands

This is one of two on my 1998 Donzi 30ZF.
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From the mechanics report

Compression

Starboard 1-110, 2-115, 3-110, 4-110, 5-110, 6-115

Port 1-105, 2-85, 3-110, 4-109, 5-110 6-110

Port computer board overheated and needs to be replaced

From the looks of the report they gave me it was the ring on #2 that let loose and is loosing compression. The motor was running OK a few minutes before the "Check Engine" light and buzzer went off, no idle problem, nothing like that even after the buzzer. The only issue was one of killing the motor when I put it in gear, that had been a problem the last few times I was out (and only intermittently), but it ran OK, and no codes from the ECM, so I chalked it up to not running as often in the winter time. Of course they could not get the ECM to hook to the computer and they want to replace that as well.
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The marine shop wanted about $9,000 to do the work. I about croaked so I plan on tackling this myself. I’ve never done an outboard rebuild but have done some older carb’ed car engines (nothing with ECM/PCM's on them).</O

Some specific questions:

1. Carbon Build up, reportedly bad on these motors. Could this have caused the ring to stick? What can be done to eliminate or prevent it?
2. Fuel & Oil. Do I need to run higher Octane? I have heard that Super is not good for the High pressure injection motors. Oil, I always use TCW-3, but I am not picky about the brand, should I be?
3. ECM, anything you have on this, replacement suppliers, reprogramming, etc.
4. Oil Injection, it seems to me the issue may be lack of lubrication. The oil is being used, but I don’t know if it is enough, is the pump not working correctly??? Can the Oil system be removed and oil pre-mixed (I have heard yes & no)? If it can, pros & cons.
5. Parts suppliers, rebuild kits, etc. I’ve seen them on the web for all kinds of prices, what & who do you recommend?
6. Can DSP1’s powerheadfit my motor?
7. Anything, tips, tricks, advice specific to an Evinrude FICHT rebuild….I am into uncharted territory here.</O

Thanks;

JEFE

[QUICKSILVER]

I'm not sure how much those electrical components cost that need replacing, but a rebuilt powerhead is around $4000, and a new powerhead is around $5000. That is with a $500 core charge. The marina must want you to pay the mechanics salary for the next month. With a good service manual, you should be able to do the job for less than $2000. You have the other engine to reference by for reinstalling all of the external parts.

[QUICKSILVER]

The 1999 is listed different in the catalog. The 2000-2003 are listed as the same.

[Capt.Insane-o]

Decarbonize both motors. Merc Power tune, Bomb Carbon Guard, sierra carbon free, what ever. Follow directions on can. I prefer to let them sit and soak over night though. Do the compression test from there and see what happens. warm motors, good battery and throttle plates wide open. A leak down test following the compression test is a good thing to do also.

Bomb and merc make a dfi oil, start using it. It also states in the bomb service manual what fuel additives can be used in those motors to help carbon build up.

[Holeshot Marine]

Is right on the money not saying it will fix the low compression but if a ring is sticking (becuase of carbon) the decarb can unstick it. If it doesnt the next step would be to pull the head and see what is going on and go from there..Your dieing coming out of gear has nothing to do with the commpresion most likely an adj. or cable problem...You said you had it at a shop they should have done this . Now your numbered questions..

1)XD 50 (BMC) is the oil for your engines or a better synthetic nothing else is worth the hassel this is a must, cheap oil or oil not desinged for your engine will build up carbon. 50 -100 hrs inbetween tuneups is a must (new plugs, decarb,LU oil ect.

2)OMC said 87 octane was ok but I would run the middle grade

3)ECM can be repaired I have the phone# at the shop will post later if someone doent beat me to it..

4)NO cannot be premixed no way no how cant tell from here if it is working properly

5)All the interals can be bought aftermarket pistons bearing ect. but I have yet to see a gasket set

6)

7) Get someone who has done it before there are so many things that could have caused your problem from lack of maintenance to a bad ECM or even an injector..All the test for this motor could be a page long..(and I cant type worth a damn) The best time to do the tests are now before you take it apart if it is even hurt..


Hope this helps some
Dan Pine

[lilabner]

There was a problem with some brains running hot, pre 2002...a trick is to plug the piss hole with a 1/8 pipe plug with an allen type head..run a water pressure guage and you don't need a pee hole...