12-23-2004, 09:25 AM #1
Rebuild Questions on OMC, Evinrude FICHT
Hello and Merry Christmas to all. This is not the way I wanted to introduce myself to the board, but I have a little problem with an outboard, and my good buddies Fish & Woodsy told me to post it here as this is the place of the outboard Guru’s.
I did some research on past posts about motor rebuilds and got a wealth of good info. Marking, bagging, inspections, encouragement, etc., but I did notice most of the posts were related to Mercs…..and I have OMC, and I’m curious about specific issues related to OMC rebuilds.
OK, specs: 2000 model, Evinrude FICHT Ocean Pro, 225 HP, approx. 475 hours
I run 87 Octane Fuel (Chevron & Shell mostly) and TCW-3 oil, several brands
This is one of two on my 1998 Donzi 30ZF.
From the mechanics report
Starboard 1-110, 2-115, 3-110, 4-110, 5-110, 6-115
Port 1-105, 2-85, 3-110, 4-109, 5-110 6-110
Port computer board overheated and needs to be replaced
From the looks of the report they gave me it was the ring on #2 that let loose and is loosing compression. The motor was running OK a few minutes before the "Check Engine" light and buzzer went off, no idle problem, nothing like that even after the buzzer. The only issue was one of killing the motor when I put it in gear, that had been a problem the last few times I was out (and only intermittently), but it ran OK, and no codes from the ECM, so I chalked it up to not running as often in the winter time. Of course they could not get the ECM to hook to the computer and they want to replace that as well.
The marine shop wanted about $9,000 to do the work. I about croaked so I plan on tackling this myself. I’ve never done an outboard rebuild but have done some older carb’ed car engines (nothing with ECM/PCM's on them).
Some specific questions:
- Carbon Build up, reportedly bad on these motors. Could this have caused the ring to stick? What can be done to eliminate or prevent it?
- Fuel & Oil. Do I need to run higher Octane? I have heard that Super is not good for the High pressure injection motors. Oil, I always use TCW-3, but I am not picky about the brand, should I be?
- ECM, anything you have on this, replacement suppliers, reprogramming, etc.
- Oil Injection, it seems to me the issue may be lack of lubrication. The oil is being used, but I don’t know if it is enough, is the pump not working correctly??? Can the Oil system be removed and oil pre-mixed (I have heard yes & no)? If it can, pros & cons.
- Parts suppliers, rebuild kits, etc. I’ve seen them on the web for all kinds of prices, what & who do you recommend?
- Can DSP1’s powerheadfit my motor?
- Anything, tips, tricks, advice specific to an Evinrude FICHT rebuild….I am into uncharted territory here.
12-23-2004, 10:37 AM #2
I'm not sure how much those electrical components cost that need replacing, but a rebuilt powerhead is around $4000, and a new powerhead is around $5000. That is with a $500 core charge. The marina must want you to pay the mechanics salary for the next month. With a good service manual, you should be able to do the job for less than $2000. You have the other engine to reference by for reinstalling all of the external parts.
12-23-2004, 10:45 AM #3
The 1999 is listed different in the catalog. The 2000-2003 are listed as the same.
12-23-2004, 05:13 PM #4
What i'd do.
Decarbonize both motors. Merc Power tune, Bomb Carbon Guard, sierra carbon free, what ever. Follow directions on can. I prefer to let them sit and soak over night though. Do the compression test from there and see what happens. warm motors, good battery and throttle plates wide open. A leak down test following the compression test is a good thing to do also.
Bomb and merc make a dfi oil, start using it. It also states in the bomb service manual what fuel additives can be used in those motors to help carbon build up.
12-23-2004, 06:46 PM #5
Is right on the money not saying it will fix the low compression but if a ring is sticking (becuase of carbon) the decarb can unstick it. If it doesnt the next step would be to pull the head and see what is going on and go from there..Your dieing coming out of gear has nothing to do with the commpresion most likely an adj. or cable problem...You said you had it at a shop they should have done this . Now your numbered questions..
1)XD 50 (BMC) is the oil for your engines or a better synthetic nothing else is worth the hassel this is a must, cheap oil or oil not desinged for your engine will build up carbon. 50 -100 hrs inbetween tuneups is a must (new plugs, decarb,LU oil ect.
2)OMC said 87 octane was ok but I would run the middle grade
3)ECM can be repaired I have the phone# at the shop will post later if someone doent beat me to it..
4)NO cannot be premixed no way no how cant tell from here if it is working properly
5)All the interals can be bought aftermarket pistons bearing ect. but I have yet to see a gasket set
7) Get someone who has done it before there are so many things that could have caused your problem from lack of maintenance to a bad ECM or even an injector..All the test for this motor could be a page long..(and I cant type worth a damn) The best time to do the tests are now before you take it apart if it is even hurt..
Hope this helps some
12-23-2004, 08:18 PM #6
There was a problem with some brains running hot, pre 2002...a trick is to plug the piss hole with a 1/8 pipe plug with an allen type head..run a water pressure guage and you don't need a pee hole...
12-23-2004, 08:36 PM #7
hey Jefe, welcome to S&F!
96' STV Euro
Smarta$$ of the Sunshine Syndicate,
How to upload pics (click here)
12-23-2004, 09:19 PM #8
2000 -2003 are not the same, 01 had a different displacement among other things. Decarb the engine and switch to the proper oil and at least 89 octane. I would have someone with experience rebuild it as the possible list of causes is very long as mentioned above, you will need the computor disk and laptop to check many of the components but 9k for a rebuild is WAY out of line.
12-23-2004, 09:32 PM #9
but 9k for a rebuild is WAY out of line.
Yessir. A whole brand new powerhead is probably around half that
12-23-2004, 09:48 PM #10
You can build this motor yourself but I would have a certified BMC / OMC mechanic to do it. Even with a new EMM you will need to hook it to a computer to reconize all 7 injectors & to set it to the break-in proceedure. 9k is too much. That price must be for a new factory rotating assembly, new computer, and labor to change everything.
Your motor should be able to be rebuilt back to factory spec and adding a new computer for less than $6.
Another idea would be to search for another 2000 motor & just buy it. You can find them for about the same money & sell the one bad one you have. You should be able to get at least $1k for it if not more.
MikeEnjoying life as a new father.
12-24-2004, 07:22 PM #11
Rebuild OMC, Ficht
Well that is out of line any way you look at it, but they can run more than carb. motors because of the electronics.
First about me: I was a factory rep for OMC for 24 yrs. I was there till the end (bankruptcy). The last 6 yrs. I was Team Lead of technical support. This meant I when to fishing tournaments and was the fishermen's pit crew. Plenty of experience turning wrenches.
I have all the new/ used parts you might need. I don't mind giving you any free advice about what to do in your situation wheather I sell you anything or not.
These engines fail from a host of mechanical as well electrical problems. They lose dow pins just like carb. motors. In that case the repairs are the same. Set up after the rebuild is different only in the breakin clock being reset and setting timing. This requires a laptop or PDA with proper software.
12-24-2004, 07:34 PM #12
OMC rebuild, Ficht
You/I will need the exact model number complete. Sample would be E225FPLSS C/H or S. That last letter is important. Their were only minor differences in the powerheads from '99 to "00. Since yours is a 2000 it will have the later changes. Have your motors been updated. Quickest way to tell is if there are brackets on the injectors to help hold them to the cylinder heads. More about that later.
There are a host of after market parts available and I have access to them also. There is an after market gasket set and it is the same as the factory set which is the same as the carb set.( just a few additional extra pieces.)
Not sure what you mean by half the computer burned out! The EMM is separated into two parts, but it is regulator/rectifier and ignition plus other components. These can be rebuilt on some occasions. I will be gone until after the first of the year, but would be happy to offer any advice or assistance. Dan
12-27-2004, 05:40 PM #13
I rebuilt mine myself, but only the bad cylinder. Buy the book for that motor, you will need it. You have the benefit of an identical motor for comparison for the exterior components. I am a good mechanic, but not a marine mechanic, and mine is still running fine. A bad injector killed mine, had it fixed and paid local dealer to set my computer for break-in. I spent a grand total of $690 and didn't use aftermarket parts. They are a piece of cake if you're not afraid to tackle it and you have the book. JIMThe impossible I do right away, miracles take a little longer.
12-29-2004, 09:25 AM #14
Motor Model Numbers
Once again gents, thanks for all the advice and info.
as requested here are the model numbers and date of manufacture
12-29-2004, 10:00 AM #15
I was getting my information from some aftermarket catalogs. Pro marine was one and the other was Red Rhino. Unless the book is wrong (and it could be) the 200-225HP 1999-2001 Fitch has a 3.685 standard bore, and the 3.3L Fitch 225-250HP 2000-2002 has a 3.654 standard bore. The 225HP in 2000 could have been either one of the two displacements because it is listed in both.