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  1. #1
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    Glass filler / Bondo or something else?

    I appreciate all the input from my last thread I posted, One last question
    Finished glassing my sponsons (4-10 oz. cloth layers and 1-6 oz. cloth finishing layer). Came out real nice, but I do have a few little waves. Can I use a glass filler or bodo to straighten things out or will it just crack when the boat flexes a little? Above and below water line.

  2. #2
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    i would use duraglass. have seen bondo plugs fall out ( while underway)

  3. #3
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    Filler

    First I'm glad to see I'm not the only person that sits on the computer all day instead of working. I stay away from using polyester fillers like BONDO (name brand) they are made up of poly resin and mostly talc which acts like a wick to moisture, use duraglass (name brand) or some sort of short strand fberglass filler. Most guys don't like it because it does'nt spread or sand as easy as BONDO. I'm going to let out a trade secret to S&F freinds but this thread will self destruct after you read it. If you get some polyester resin you can thin down your DURAGLASS and it will spread like butter and sand easier you will need to increase the amount of hardener you put in your filler by at least 2 times and let it dry out completly so it sticks to repair area. Good Luck JERRY Oh and use a good high build primer for any sand scratches or pinholes (PPG NCP 270)
    Last edited by 97 TWISTER; 08-13-2004 at 01:34 PM.

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    If they are only gel thickness slop some gel on and sand that. Its easier to do and not such a mess as the fiber filled canned stuff.
    If its white then your lucky and done, with a smooth layer to boot.
    '90 STV
    '96 260
    under construction

    for far too long

  5. #5
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    filler

    anybody tried the new 3m marine filler for use under water? i just saw it advertised.

    by the way, i have found standard bondo to be ok if it is maybe 1/8 inch thick or less and the substrate does not flex. it sticks ok from my experience.

  6. #6
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    Re: Filler

    If you get some polyester resin you can thin down your DURAGLASS... you will need to increase the amount of hardener you put in your filler by at least 2 times and let it dry out completly so it sticks to repair area. ...use a good high build primer (PPG NCP 270) [/B][/QUOTE]

    This is great, guys. The subject area I've chosen to try to tackle first. If you don't mind...

    polyester resin to thin duragloss - did you mean the poly-resin/talc - Bondo-type product you referred to previously, or a pure poly-resin as would be used in that type product?

    Re: Hardener - increase the hardener by 2x the Duragloss label recommendation? What helps you know if you might need to adjust up or down from that 2x concentration?

    High Build Primer? Does that mean thick, or what?

    Thanks, -Jim

    "There are no stupid questions,just stupid peolpe who ask questions" -Chris Berman

  7. #7
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    I know if your duroglass is warm, and you use a nice new plastic spreader it goes on nice. But when warm you only have a minute or two to work. It will harden real slow if at all without enough hardener. Bondo is not waterproof so to speak, duro is. Yes, it sands real hard...I use a disker/grinder first to smooth it. It is like the concrete of fillers. It can be hard to use in a thin application...part of that is due to it sanding so hard you sand the substrate away from it though not as big a problem with fiberglass.

    I would guess the duro hardener is weaker than the resin hardener? That why you need more?

  8. #8
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    Marooned

    I think you are referring to what I had said about thinng your filler. Duraglass is just a name brand of fiberglass reinforced filler as Bondo is a name brand of polyester filler. It has always been my understandind that Bondo is filled with talc to give it body so it will fill. I use polyester resin in both types of filler so it spreads easier I have even gone as far as thinning it down enough for it will flow used in applications such as hail damage. ( spread and it self levels) When I say add more hardener I mean the cream hardner that comes with the filler it may take a little longer to set up but it spreads like butter and sands nicer. You may need learn how much more hardner you need to add becuase it changes with the amount of resin you add. I do not like to use anything other than fiberglass reinforced filler on boat repairs because it holds up to the water. Not trying to be a smart a** but bondo is to body filler like Hienz is to ketchup lots of different companies make it. I'm a very qualified bodyman and do boat repairs just because that part of having fast light boats. I'm sure there are alot of people out there that know way more about it than me but I have made many repairs this way with good results and I hope my hints can help to make your projects easier. Good luck & have fun JERRY

  9. #9
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    Obviosly you didn't read the thread I wrote about not applying cloth on top of each other without a layer of mat in between as a binder. Oh well.......... Anyway, as a filler. Duraglass shouldn't be used under the waterline. It is also polyester based, like bondo, and will absorb water. Use 3M marine filler or high strength filler. Both are vinylester based and suitable for below the waterline.

  10. #10
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    Don't use polyester below the water line?
    What are all these glass boats using and what is the gelcoat made from?

    My own opinion of canned fillers is they suck. You can do better with cut and shredded mat and resin or filler powder and resin instead of that gloppy sat on the shelf for 20 years crap. Just my pinion.
    '90 STV
    '96 260
    under construction

    for far too long

  11. #11
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    I'm saying polyester based fillers, that use talc and milled fibers. Of course fiberglass boats are made of polyester resin. BUT polyester resin is more prone to water migration. Where vinylester resin is not.

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    P.S.
    Techno, have you ever used 3M premium marine filler, or 3M high strength filler. The premium filler spreads awesome and has excellant leveling characteristics. They are both vinylester based. And are far stronger then anything you can make at home.

  13. #13
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    FX10

    I didn't know that the was a vinylester based filler made by 3M that is most certianly the way to go I love learning that is what make this web site so great.

  14. #14
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    Cool

    FX-10 Do you know the base in gelcoat is talc?I mix the two to make filler.It works perfectly.The only way it could be better would be to mix it with Hydrex or another vinylester resin although I've never had a failure with polyester resin.

    Lord help us.
    racemore01@comcast.net

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    Racemore, you still got the Christmas lights on the house?





    I used duro to fill my epoxied transom. Then I put more epoxy over it to seal and painted with VC epoxy. Next time I'll get the right stuff to put in the epoxy for a filler mix...that duroglass does not sand/shape well.

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