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  1. #1
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    1500XS/Raveau Prop Testing

    Went out with the 22" cupped chopper to test, found that I could make 6,000 rpm @ 59 mph (Gaffrig GPS). Slight improvement over the 24" cupped chopper.

    Thinking of buying a 22" Yamaha drag/copy cleaver from Ron Hill to try, anyone with experience with this prop? By my calculations, I am experiencing 5.6% slip with the 22" chopper, but feel like the boat should be capable of 65 mph or so with the right prop. Any thoughts?

    Also found the 3 gal. remote tank would allow 6K rpm without a bobble, whereas the integral bow-mounted tank caused the engine to sputter @ sustained 5K rpm, then falter. I'm thinking an inline electric pump might be in order, but should try with the fuel cap removed b4 I make any moves.

    Did manage to set one of the jet ski types straight with a judicious application of foot throttle, though.

  2. #2
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    Jim, I'm pretty sure I don't, but I'll

    ask Bob tonite.

    Any thoughts on props? Will a 24" cleaver be a better idea than a 22"?

  3. #3
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    The cleaver will usually give more stern lift where the chopper will lift the bow. At extremely high transom heights the cleaver is usually better.
    Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

    3 X APBA Formula V Nat'l Champion
    APBA Formula V US-1
    It took me 29 years to become an overnight success.

  4. #4
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    Jeff, I am running the engine flat on the

    transom, with the centerline of the propshaft ~1" below the bottom of the V.

    Is it typical that a 24" cleaver would be closer to a 22" chopper? (Point being, the 22" chopper is running right @ 6K rpm, so should I try a 22" cleaver or due to the lesser blade surface of a cleaver vs. chopper, try a 24"?)

    Lastly, any downside to running an inline electric fuel pump?

  5. #5
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    You may have this fixed by now, but with my 1500 I had a problem with the line. It showed me the system depends on no restriction and good volume of fuel available, then it works fine. Now, I can open the line at the motor and lift the tank/boat and fuel will flow out good just under gravity. I even ran it on the starter with a carb line off, and fuel pumps out like crazy just on the starter. My tank is in the back, but the line is long enough to reach the center of the boat.

  6. #6
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    I just bought a Quicksilver fuel bulb,

    as per the suggestion of member Jeff G., to try. Mine was an Attwood or Tempo or some other off-brand, maybe that will make a difference.

    My fuel line is 3/8" i.d, which should be fine. I do have a small inline fuel filter I installed, wonder if that might be contributing to the problem?

    I know one thing, it ran perfect on the 3 gal. tank, nary a problem.

    Can't wait to go try the new Ron Hill Yamaha drag prop!

  7. #7
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    I was going to put a filter on mine, a big inline one. But then I did not...got to thinking the carb filters are after the pumps where mine would be by the tank and before the pumps...so it would have to suck through the filter. I look in the tank every year and make sure it is clean, run it every year with new fuel even though I am not using it right now. Mine the bulb worked but went bad, and filled the pumps with rubber bits. It plugged the pump valves of course so I was scared of that too. But still if I put a filter before the pumps it would be sucking and I figured if it restricted at all that would be bad. Everything is new now, so it should be ok for some time. My new line/bulb was an attwood I think.

    If I did use a filter, I'd get one that had big flow and larger internal passages. Test it to make sure the fuel runs through by gravity easily. I have one that is clear for 3/8" line, about 1/4" inside the ends I was going to use; a lawnmower type filter. Could also try a 1/2" line from tank to near the motor, and try to test it by gravity so you know the fuel is running on its own for sure.

    Some say go electric. I think my pumps deliver way more fuel than it would ever use right now, but I can see where electric might be less prone to a problem. I even idled it with a carb drain open and it ran on all 6 with fuel running out of a carb. Just don't get a fire if you are messing like that.

  8. #8
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    I'm not sure if the bulb I bought has the

    yellow ring at one end or not, don't recall noticing it, however. BTW, what is the difference, anyway?

    I'll get rid of the inline filter. This may sound stupid, but short of changing out the entire line, what (if anything) would be good to put in it's place?

  9. #9
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    "short of changing out the entire line, what (if anything) would be good to put in it's place?"

    Any parts house should have a double barb hose connector in the brass fittings rack.
    Membership upgrade options: http://www.screamandfly.com/payments.php

  10. #10
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    Duh......I musta had a brain fart....

    Thanks, RM, I'll have another cup of coffee now...

  11. #11
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    Let us know how it runs w/o the filter. The fittings, I use them in air hoses and a hardware place should have them too. I think my old V8 I/O has a 3/8 copper line from the bow tank, then a ground strap soldered to it and rubber to the motor. So it should flow enough for it as long as you know your tank vent & pickup are OK. My inline has a metal tank, and there is a little screen on the pickup I didn't know about until I flushed it. But that was right when I got it and everything was a mess in the fuel system.

  12. #12
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    We are currently rebuilding a 1500. The round inlet cover on the single fuel pump is plastic and has radiating hairline cracks completely through. They are easily missed but common on those pumps. It has the potential to suck air in. We may convert it to the older style double side-mounted pump set-up.
    Scott


  13. #13
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    Mine ('73) has the two block mount pumps. I swear the bolts had never been touched on them, I sure could not believe they lasted until a few years ago. The very lowest bolt was not even tapped all the way in and not tight to pump. I had a fun time tapping it. There was factory black paint under the bolt head...but it never leaked. I think the diaphrams were still good but they were full of rubber chunks in the valves.

  14. #14
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    Fuel filter

    [BQUOTE=sho305]Mine ('73) has the two block mount pumps. I swear the bolts had never been touched on them, I sure could not believe they lasted until a few years ago. The very lowest bolt was not even tapped all the way in and not tight to pump. I had a fun time tapping it. There was factory black paint under the bolt head...but it never leaked. I think the diaphrams were still good but they were full of rubber chunks in the valves.[/QUOTE]
    Be careful with filter's most won't pass oil they will clog Lloyd Burns

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lloyd
    [BQUOTE=sho305]Mine ('73) has the two block mount pumps. I swear the bolts had never been touched on them, I sure could not believe they lasted until a few years ago. The very lowest bolt was not even tapped all the way in and not tight to pump. I had a fun time tapping it. There was factory black paint under the bolt head...but it never leaked. I think the diaphrams were still good but they were full of rubber chunks in the valves.
    Be careful with filter's most won't pass oil they will clog Lloyd Burns[/QUOTE]
    P.S. sone of the caps on top of the carb's have screen's inthe fitting burn't several piston's finding this out

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