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09-13-2004, 10:44 AM #16
I went to replace the plastic guides on my jack this weekend. What a hassle. Two of the retainer bolts wouldn't come out, even after spraying penetrant oil on them all week. Ended up stripping the allen heads on them. Couldn't get enough room to get the plate off without pulling the motor. Got the motor then the plate off and drilled out the two bolts that wouldn't come out, broke a bit inside. Well, I lucked out and was able to re-tap the holes to the original size.
Seems the set screws don't actually hold the plastic inserts, They push some sharpened pins into the plastic. Only two were left when I took it apart. Are they supposed to be in all of the four holes?1990 Cougar 25 MTR w/twin 300 PM's
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09-08-2011, 11:16 AM #17
is there any chance in 2011 I can find a set of liners for a land and sea jack plate ??
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09-08-2011, 12:52 PM #18
Call land & sea and see. Phone on web site.
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08-07-2012, 10:22 AM #19
This is an old thread, but I have a Land & Sea jack plate, and I was looking to refresh it as it goes up slow and sometimes blows the breaker. I called the number on the label and ended up learning they no longer make any parts for these. Only in the Dyno business now.
Greg
'73 Switzer SS170 w/ '75 Merc 1500 L6
'89 Switzer SK-175-BR w/ '88 Merc XR4 150
'90 Switzer SS-20-BR w/ Supercharged 350ci I/O
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06-27-2013, 04:53 PM #20New Member
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I bought a boat a few years back that has a Land & Sea jack plate that did the same thing. The wire coming out of the top of the hydraulic pump was still intact but looked weathered. When I grabbed the wire, it was soft and emitted a greenish goo. I was able to jack the engine up enough to access the top cover of the hydraulic pump where the wires enter (I think there were two screws to remove). This was a very tight spot to get into and not an easy job. After detaching the wire I cut away sections of the black outer wire casing to find the insulation on the wires inside had turned into a pasty mess. I couldn't find a direct short anywhere, but I had seen this happen before in other applications. I'm thinking that the insulation broke down enough to cause a "bleeding short circuit" along the length that was bad. This probably caused the hydraulic pump motor to turn slower and slower until it finally would fry a fuse. Replace the fuse and it would work for a while and then blow another fuse.
Solution: There was plenty of good wire under the back deck so that all I had to do was keep removing the bad wire until I got to the point where it was in still good condition (the wiring under the deck still looked like new). I reconnected the good stuff and all was fixed. Worked like a champ after that. Here are some before images showing green goo and pump cover:
Here is the after:
It took me an afternoon and into the evening to figure it all out and complete. Parts cost was nothing. All I needed to do was shorten the wiring. After reviewing the photos, I guess I did add some flexible wire wrapping and a few cable ties (to protect the rewiring from the elements) . . . . . along with a new fuse . . . . . so out-of-pocket was only a few bucks.
Hope this helps someone,
Hydroman52Last edited by Hydroman52; 06-27-2013 at 05:04 PM. Reason: bad spelling
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06-28-2013, 08:10 AM #21
Thanks for the reply!! I'm guessing that I will have a similar problem when I peel back the insulation, but my motor is mounted on the lower starboard side of the hydraulic ram, not on top like yours. I actually need to remove the whole motor/pump assembly from between the two structural portions of the jack plate before I can remove the motor or access the wiring. I fear there may be water intrusion issues since it works a lot better after it has been on the hoist or trailer for long periods. I was hoping to find some sort of o-ring/gasket kit for the whole thing, and just rebuild it completely as long as it was out. I will likely have to make my own. But on the plus side, the motor says Prestolite on the side, so should be easily serviced.
I am likely going to get into it after I spend next week on vacation with the boat in the water. I can live with no jack plate adjustment for now. I will take pics of what I encounter and post them here. Looks like you did a nice job of cleaning everything up.Greg
'73 Switzer SS170 w/ '75 Merc 1500 L6
'89 Switzer SK-175-BR w/ '88 Merc XR4 150
'90 Switzer SS-20-BR w/ Supercharged 350ci I/O
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08-03-2013, 06:25 AM #225000 RPM
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hi u can buy the motor new in the brp book it is 60 to 70 hp Johnson trim pump motor
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08-03-2013, 06:28 AM #235000 RPM
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Hi does anyone know where to get liners for these jacking plate cheers
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08-03-2013, 08:33 AM #245000 RPM
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03-11-2014, 02:19 PM #25
I have an old complete jackplate from land and sea if anyone needs it the plastic spacers are gone. I have someone that has one for sale I would like to buy but my question is how new could it be? I am being told it is mint.
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11-16-2021, 10:55 PM #26The Historic Photo Master
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