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  1. #1

    Use VRO on 2000 Johnson 150?

    I removed the VRO pump on my 2000 Johnson mtr when the warranty expired because of all the bad things I'd read about them.
    Lately I've read somethings that make me think I was premature in this. According to the last few articles I've read, since 1997 the VRO system check is pretty much foolproof. The article in Bass & Walleye Boats magazine from a couple of years ago, gave a good history and troubleshooting guide. I've been thinking about putting it back on just for the convenience.

    I'd sure like to hear from some folks that have experience in this area.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
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    I have no problem using them. In reality all they are is a two chamber single diaphram pump. If all the components are in good condition and your hot horn system is OK go ahead. You will use less oil, less smoke, less carbon build up and less plug fouling. Make sure you follow procedure and bleed all the air out of the oil lines before you use it. I would also continue to use oil in the fuel the first couple hours and mark the oil tank to ensure the oil level drops showing the oil is going through ok.
    If you just threw the VRO pump in a drawer or on a shelve without bagging it first I would check for dirt very carefully. BMC has some rebuild kits for some units as well. Check your BMC dealer.
    Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

    3 X APBA Formula V Nat'l Champion
    APBA Formula V US-1
    It took me 29 years to become an overnight success.

  3. oil pump...

    I am going through the same dilema. How do you bleed the system?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    South Carolina
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    2,595
    Use the promer bulb on the oil line until oil comes out of the end by the pump.
    Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

    3 X APBA Formula V Nat'l Champion
    APBA Formula V US-1
    It took me 29 years to become an overnight success.

  5. #5

    Why take the risk?

    I remember the B&WB article as well. It said something along the lines of "VRO has been working great since the beginning, but better make sure you are running the latest upgrade." Seemed a bit fishy to me.

    To me, it is not worth it, even with oil injection systems that have a better track record than VRO, I prefer pre-mix.
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    2,595
    Markus, actually the VRO system is a pretty good way to go. It is in reality a single diaphram dual valve pump that works off of crankcase pressure. The main problems in the past were related to bad fuels and gelling oils, neither of which were the fault of OMC. Constant improvements to the components and the materials have resulted in a pretty darn good system. If the main diaphram fails you stop pumping fuel as well as oil. I have seen extremely few failures in the past 10 years, and of those there was no lack of oil damage.
    There are many reasons to run a VRO as stated above. However for substained high performance applications additional oil in the tank or the use of exclusively pre mixed fuel may be the way to go. But for normal pleasure boat operation the VRO is a dependable, economical, more environmentally friendly way to go.
    Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

    3 X APBA Formula V Nat'l Champion
    APBA Formula V US-1
    It took me 29 years to become an overnight success.

  7. #7
    Jeff_G is correct.. One of the biggest problems they had ( which gave them a bad rap) was in 1984 the filter in the tank was the size of the tip of your index finger and it plugged up from oil gelling... the service repair for this was to replace the filter with a larger flat filter the ran across the bottom of the tank ( see pic ) I believe the newer tanks have improved on this even more ( someone correct me if I'm wrong).. On a stock Rpm engine the VRO works great just make sure there are no leaks and the warning horn works.. To start with fill tank 3/4 full, Mark the tank with a blk marker or tape, while floating in the water so the level will be consistant, mix oil 50 to 1 in tank ( start with 6 gal) run that through it , it will smoke some but won't hurt it. when you can see the oil level has moved you will know the system is working properly..Fill you gas tank up and have fun...
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    90 HST w/ 300GT Big Johnson
    79 Viper w/ 85 little Johnson

  8. I read somewhere that several fails were related to water in oil tanks - Goes to the bottom of the tank, Oil horn can't distingiush between oil and water. This is just hearsay. Has anyone actually seen a VRO related fail.

  9. #9

    RE:

    I looked at it tonight. Two electrical plugs and installing and priming the oil bulb. Mine has the larger oil tank filter too. I'm going to reinstall it, but I'll premix too, till I'm sure it's working. Anybody know how to test the horn?

  10. #10
    To Just check the horn..... Have the key on go back to the engine and on either head you will see a wire that runs into a plug in the head that is the temp sensor, on the wire there should be a rubber cover, slide it back and it will have a scissor connection under it, ground it to the block and the warning horn will sound....

    If you think there is a problem with the VRO pump... The easiest way would be to unhook the oil line from the engine (while you have the tank mixed 50 to 1 ONLY ) let it run the oil out of the pump..The horn should sound 1/2 second on, 1/2 second off.. this is the no oil warning...
    Remember to prime the oil pump when you hook it back up..

    Low oil warning....
    the horn sounds 1/2 sec every 20 sec...
    it will sound about a 1/4 tank

    Hope this helps
    Todd
    90 HST w/ 300GT Big Johnson
    79 Viper w/ 85 little Johnson

  11. #11

    VRO

    VRO is also the only system that has an oil flow alarm, which I think should be part of any auto lube system. (It was added after a couple of years, so early VRO-equipped engines do not have them).

    My understanding, though, is that later revisions deliver a constant ratio of oil at all rpm. It makes sense considering what would otherwise happen if you hit the throttle after 10 minutes of trolling, but it would of course not result in oil savings. This is not based on OMC service manuals, but on magazine articles and/or S&F, so it could well be wrong.

    Anyway, I had an expensive experience from tinkering with the oil injection system on a Yamaha. Since then, I do not trust those things. So, Wild Eyed, you better be very careful when you install the VRO system if you decide to go for it.
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Location
    South Carolina
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    No the VRO has a variable rate of oiling. From about 150 to 1 at idle to 50 to 1 at wot. It does save quite a bit of oil in the long run and a lot less carbon and smoke.
    There is no need to worry about hitting the throttle from idle the cylinders have plenty of oil as does the rest of the motor.
    OMC in fact a number of years ago found they could run some of their motors at a constant 100 to 1. The only problem was lack of rust protection in long term storage, so they went back to 50 to 1. This was in a pre mix motor. It is recommended for long term storage to fog the motor. But I would recommend that in any motor.
    Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.

    3 X APBA Formula V Nat'l Champion
    APBA Formula V US-1
    It took me 29 years to become an overnight success.

  13. #13

    Rust protection

    Yep. Heard the same thing about the 1:100 Yamahas.

    Further, lack of rust protection is also why some high-end synthetic oils have not passed the TC W-3 tests. It has nothing to do the lubricating properties.
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

  14. #14
    Trust the pump, but I will never trust the goofball at the gas dock to figure correct 50-1 mix.

  15. #15

    RE: VRO

    I drained the oil tank and reinstalled it tonight. Made the two wiring connections (plugs). With oil tank empty, "empty oil tank" light comes on. Grounding the single wire that goes into the head causes the "hot" light to come on, but neither gives an audible alarm. Unit beeps when key is turned on. Does the engine have to be running to get horn to sound? This is 2000 model motor.
    I will start the motor with cooling water and with the oil line plugged to make sure the "no oil flow" warning light comes on. I've got 50:1 premix in gas tank and will continue to mix until I'm sure VRO is oiling properly.

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