Mercury Twisters T1, T2, T2X

**jackie wilson** · 11-04-2009, 10:54 AM

If Becky is gone ----he didn't just pass away----he violated every damn law and FLEW away at a thousand miles an hour doing back flips and giving the finger to anyone who saw him. Old farts like him do not simply "PASS AWAY" Jackie.

**Skeet 2** · 02-23-2012, 01:38 AM

Any luck on T2X timing belts It Looks like the last post was March 2007. I broke mine about 3 weeks ago wish all the owners could get some made I would take about 3 of them...

**spongebob440** · 02-28-2012, 01:24 PM

Looking for timing belt also....Anyone come up with any?? or any ideas???

**Mark75H** · 02-28-2012, 05:22 PM

3 ideas:

convert motor to ADI

convert odd pitch belt & pulleys to standard

use a regular Merc belt and a spring loaded idler pulley to take up the slack

**Skeet 2** · 02-28-2012, 07:29 PM

I have repaired my belt and it looks like it will work. Now stay with me !!! If the belt can be put back together at the point where it broke and is the same distance between the teeth at that point.Heres where it sounds crazy!! Super glue it together ,this is only to keep it together for the next step. I bought some E6000 Industrial strength medium viscosity clear glue. It is used for repairing rubber conveyer belts amoung other things,it is flexible. I took a nylon tie strap that was very thin thickness and cut it the width of the belt and the length of the belt. Cleaned the belt with laquer thinner and ruffed the surface with 280 grit sand paper for the glue to adhere to. Put a coat of . glue on the belt and on the nylon strip you cut that is 19 3/4 inch long . Put the nylon strip on where it wraps all the way around the belt and it joins oppsite of the break .That way it has strength all the way around the belt from the break. It dries in a few hours to touch and cures in 24 hrs.I smoothed it with my fingers and it went on very good. I first tested it on a broken stock belt and it was very strong and flexiable.Feeling good about it I did my T2X belt. Any questions leave me a message . The glue is made by Eclectic Products I bought it at a ace Hardware store Called E6000 on the tube....

**MercNuts** · 02-28-2012, 10:32 PM

Originally Posted by Mark75H

use a regular Merc belt and a spring loaded idler pulley to take up the slack

The T2 and T2X require a longer belt than standard, not a shorter one. The difference is that the distributor is spaced farther from the crankshaft on the six carb front half.

**MercNuts** · 02-28-2012, 10:35 PM

Originally Posted by Skeet 2

I have repaired my belt and it looks like it will work.

Did you also try to determine why the belt failed? In many cases it is a result of the bearings in the distributor having drag either from water injestion or old age. Some will feel okay, but with running and heat will tighten up enough to shred the belt. You might put bearings in the distributor while you have it down. I do not think you repair will hold in the long run, but it is worth a try.

**Skeet 2** · 02-28-2012, 11:40 PM

You are right about the bearings in the distributor the greese was hard and it was very cold the day I turned it over not helping the situationI have replaced the bearings . The repaired belt has bonded very well to the rubber it looks like it was factory made .I took the stock belt I made first pulled as hard as I could would not break and is flexiable.Hope this will last seeing no belts are around I want to keep it original not adding idler pullies are changing to CDI .If you try this find a very thin nylon strap this one came from Harbor Freight Tools and was cheep I wanted it as thin as posible so it would be flexiable.Also when I cut it the length and width I took a bic lighter and went down the edges of the nylon to keep it from unraveling Then I applied glue to the belt and nylon.

**dp29** · 02-28-2012, 11:53 PM

Mike Mullins might can help you? DP.

**xskid** · 02-29-2012, 12:20 AM

i talked to a rubber company about making belts, they said it would be very expensive because the min. quantity would be a thousand. they said maybe splice them together, maybe take std. belts that are still available and cut them and splice together. you can take 6 belts and make 5 , if my t-2x starts eating belts, i wont use my spare nos belt, i will try to fix why they break, and then try splicing them.

**Skeet 2** · 02-29-2012, 12:39 AM

If you keep the distribitor moving free should be no problem. the 2 that I have made seem to be very strong the nylon bonded very well to the original rubber.I am going to try to stock belts cut them and make me another 68 tooth belt.for the twister.Will let you know how it goes. Skeeter......

**spongebob440** · 02-29-2012, 10:03 AM

Thanks for the good ideas and Imput...Im putting my t2x together and the NLA on the belts have me a little stressed!

Sound like im definetly going to replace the distributor bearings...Also did the T2X use standard inline rods? I know the stroke is the same ?....

**Mark75H** · 02-29-2012, 04:26 PM

Yes std rods. The compression is close to stock too ... the porting isn't far from XS ... its the exhaust tuning and the 6 carb front that give the big power

**spongebob440** · 03-01-2012, 09:59 AM

Thank you Mark75H!!..Doing a build and want to make sure...Do I use the same specs and tolerances as an inline?? or is there somthing speacial i should pay attention to??

**Skeet 2** · 03-01-2012, 10:12 AM

Another problem that could cause a belt break is the tar like substance Mercury used on its distributors to seal the electrical parts ,will leak into the cap and clog up the rotor . I would check if it every time you run it especially in hot weather if it is stickey never know when it will start draining into the cap .Its a stickey nasty mess.That was another problem I had My motor was not outside it was in the garage on a engine stand.

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