Mercury 2.0L V6 Build Questions - Head Work and Sleeve Replacement

[wrechin2]

I then use machinist dye and put a scribe line where I want the new champher to be.

[wrechin2]

I then grind up to the mark at approx 45 degree angle. I do this so that all are the same across the board. This is a rough cut to show you what it is.

This angle will allow the exhaust to start flowing a little sooner tricking it in thinking it has better porting because the ring pass this angle and the flow begins. This is a .100 champher which is similar to what is found on FF 200 blocks and 200 & 225 pro max blocks.

[Keaten]

Ok I'm in.. I'll measure the ports tomorrow at the shop and hopefully. .be back with more questions about how much to cut..
I've got a 2.0 apart as a winter project doin all the mods my self .. so far I've cut chest lil more than mild , honed cylinders getn new rings,cleaned up rod stot slag, square ported pistons, filled in old oil pump area in number 2 with epoxy, horz 5pet front cut .065 , ported cages with ccms reeds, Ccms 1" intake spacer WH 20s carbs., heads at 150 psi 28cc I think.. (if I add the porting changes like above pics in exhaust will it help it a lot ?)

[wrechin2]

The exhaust I posted on your other thread is mild. You want to direct the exhaust. The small chest such as found on many v6 mercury is directed up torward the divider and then has to turn downward. The factory performance engines help flow by angling the flow down from the start. The chest I done on the 2.4 shown is very close to a 260 but I angle it more than mercury did. Mine is 45 degrees and mercury is 38 degrees.

[Keaten]

This is wat ive got..

[wrechin2]

The thing is the angle. You have removed material but the main direction is up. Need to cut some off of the port towards the bottom to change the angle to make it longer at the top. Study what it looks like and you will understand how the flow is now versus what you want.

[Keaten]

Ok ill cut it to 45 deg on the drop below the port to make it flow down more i see wat your sayn thanks.. About the port timing wat would be a good amount to cut out.. .100 like above or less..

[Keaten]

I measured the port i think i did it right. .lolthe champher cut would be on the inner part correct the back side would stay same correct. . Sorry so many questions. ..ha thank you for all the good pics and extra effort

[Gordon02]

I want to install studs into the cylinder block and use washers/nuts to attach the heads. I looked on APE's site and that of ARP for cylinder head studs, but I haven't found them. I've done this on my bike builds and want to have this 2.0L build done this way. Is there an economical source out there? I've had more than a couple of the stock bolts snap while trying to bring them to torque. Even with lightly oiled threads, my last build, a 2.4L had 2 head bolts shear off on me before I could make that last 90 degree pull.

Thanks, Gordon

[Keaten]

I got some from fasnal just bring a old head bolt to them and they can help u out..

[Dave S]

Fun thread. Never had bolts snap un less pulling out of salty junk. Do not 90/ the wrong rod bolts.

[Gordon02]

The two bolts snapped upon reassembly and they were the original head bolts that I'd taken out just a week before. I use zip-loc bags and label related assemblies as I go - no chance of confusion whether it's a day later or a year later. I'd learned this lesson the hard way restoring vintage motorcycles. Threads were clean as was the block, the bolts gave up. A good friend and local Merc mechanic with more gray hair than me says he's had dozens twist in two over the years. My push for studs come more from the fact I don't like repeated threading into aluminum. With a stud, you install it once with Blue loctite and you can remove the nuts 100 times without loss of clamping. The aluminum threads of the cylinder block wear every time the bolts are torqued when using bolts.

[tlwjkw]

tha 90+ suck for for most here ta use.. they aren't for a motor that's gonna have tha heads removed more than once a year... never "broke one" but have pulled block threads a few times till I figured out tha 35/40lbs (felt 40 was pushin' it though) was plenty good... never did understand tha "real reason" for tha bolt type change.. didn't really care!.. I can see a reason for studs and/or tha reusable 35 lb. type bolts on genuine stem winder motors and also tha torque ta yield on everyday "fishin' motors though.. don't know of any hot rod builders that actually use tha 90+ junk method on their stuff, heads or case halves...... jmo.

"Do not 90/ the wrong rod bolts.".. use ta see this often....

[Capt.Insane-o]

Chris Carson has stud kits

[RoyE]

Jep, here is a link to CCM ebay account with the studs: Chris Carson Marine eBay studs
Not sure if the HSK2.0 or the HSKU is the one to go for. In any way they can and will answer all your questions if you email/call them.

Thank you for documenting everything and many thanks to the people that take the time to instruct and help others out! Thinking about a similar project myself and this is really motivating might start a similar project/topic myself in the near future.