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  1. #1
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    Mercury 2.0L V6 Build Questions - Head Work and Sleeve Replacement

    Hi Guys, I've been coming here for over 15 years to read and enjoy many of the threads here. I used to be a contributing editor for Bass & Walleye Boats magazine and attended many of the OBDA races from 1999 through 2005. I've lost my old user name "CBurt" password and the recovery email is long gone too. I'm Gordon and look forward to making some post and continuing to follow many of the stories here.

    I used the search function to dig up some old conversations on the older Mercury XR2/2.0L V6's, but did not find what I was looking for. I've got a 1989 2.0L engine that I want to build for a project boat. The engine has 1 bad cylinder and I want to have a new sleeve installed in this one hole.

    Questions -
    1) What are the minimum chamber cc's that a 2.0L can live on pump gas? I've measured the stock chambers at approx 34cc, but I've read somewhere on another site "26cc" will work on pump gas, but that sounds tight. I ask because I'd love to have these cut since cutting could clean up the damage the broken #6 piston left in the head on that cylinder.

    2) We've moved from South Carolina where I had a great shop nearby that did outboard machine work. I'm now in south Alabama and the shop here says they can install a new sleeve (I'll have to provide the new one), but they would be using a boring bar to machine the old sleeve away. I thought you heated the block and pulled the sleeve, but I've never seen it done. Is boring the old one "away" acceptable or should I run and make the long, 16 hour round-trip to South Carolina and that old, familiar shop?

    Replies/insights welcome! Thanks, Gordon
    Last edited by Gordon02; 01-09-2018 at 10:08 PM.

  2. #2
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    I could be wrong but i thought the 2.0 had the liner cast right into the block and cannot be pulled like the 2.5 steel bore engines can.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by 90VIPER View Post
    I could be wrong but i thought the 2.0 had the liner cast right into the block and cannot be pulled like the 2.5 steel bore engines can.
    ^^This is correct, as far as the fishing motors ive had experience with. Is the damage in the cylinder too much to clean up with say a .020 a overbore?

  4. #4
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    Oh yea, the bore/liner is beyond simple boring. The piston came apart and bent the rod when the top hit the cylinder head. I have confirmed there is no damage to the block, but the sleeve has to be replaced. Here are some photos -

    Thanks, Gordon

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  5. #5
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    The machine shop should be able to bore the old sleeve out, then replace with new one if u can fine one to replace it. Is it a 2.4 block base or 2.5 looks like 2.4

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keaten View Post
    The machine shop should be able to bore the old sleeve out, then replace with new one if u can fine one to replace it. Is it a 2.4 block base or 2.5 looks like 2.4
    dowel pins give it away.. "fat block" 2.0 motor......

  7. #7
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    Ok, thanks for the exchanges! Based on above replies, boring out the old one appears to be more than acceptable and the only way to remove the damaged, original liner. LA Sleeve makes the replacement sleeves, so I'll proceed.

    Any comments on the cylinder head chamber size? This head damage will completely clear at 28cc, but is 28 or that before mentioned 26cc too tight for pump gas?

    Thanks, Gordon

  8. #8
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    one thing you need to check is tha build date.. fat block didn't show till '91.. what made you determine '89?......

    cut tha heads, put 'em on and see what develops...

  9. #9
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    This is a SeaRay 135 horse actually and I got it cheap - I assumed it was the same engine as the older XR2 motors, but that was just my conclusion after looking at parts availability. According to the same parts listings, Mercury only made the SeaRay badged outboards in 1988 and 1989. I want to use it on an 18/19 foot Center Console that I plan find and restore. This engine has low hours based on the measurements of all the components. Failure to service the waterpump certainly contributed to the death of #6 by it's previous owner - I found rubber impeller pieces throughout the cooling passages in the block. The vanes of the impeller were all broken and missing 1/2 of their mass. Again, thanks for inputs - Gordon

  10. #10
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    gottcha!.. sounds like its had a power head change somewhere down tha line... if you look at tha base of number two on tha block half where case splits there is a build date stamp.. kinda right behind tha "bend" in tha advance arm.. will be 1/8" numbers.. m/d/yr....

  11. #11
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    Ah....9/9/96! Good thing or bad? I didn't think one could get this dirty/crud covered in such short time. I bought my 1999 2.5L new and it still looks like new. This will certainly help getting the right parts ordered.

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  12. #12
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    So, I now know that I've got a 1996/1997 model Mercury 135 horse 2.0L "fat block" thanks to you guys. A Big Thanks!

    My first eBay purchase against this project came in today and while every casting and forging number on both rods/pistons match exactly, there are differences...I carefully read through many eBay auctions looking for a port-side 2.0L "standard bore" connecting rod, matching cap, and piston. I was careful to study and match all of the forging and casting numbers on the rod and piston with my original #4 pieces. The parts and description all matched perfectly.

    Well, why these numbers all "match", the pieces raise questions -
    1) The original pistons are from a 1996 and have the oil holes and notches.
    2) The eBay piston is from a 1992 and no holes and no notches.

    Should I machine the notches and oiling holes into the 1992 piston? It measures a perfect 3.105", so I really want to use it.

    3) The original, 1996 rod bearings are caged in Nylon/Plastic.
    4) The eBay 1992 rod bearings are caged in steel.

    Thanks, Gordon
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    Last edited by Gordon02; 01-10-2018 at 10:04 PM.

  13. #13
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    same other than tha cage material (only difference), size all same regardless from 1976 till whenever tha 2.0/2.4/2.5 went away in lew of tha 3.0 motor.. tha metal cage is more desired in a motor that's gonna be turned up 7 grand or more.... you need to check rod numbers closely.. '92 "could have been" a bottom guided rod/piston where tha '96 "should be" top guided rod/piston.. bottom and top guided pistons are different and use different wrist pin bearings and spacers......
    both "look" top guided but its a picture and i'm old......

    number on '92 and '96 rod?
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 01-10-2018 at 10:25 PM.

  14. #14
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    Both rods have the forged # 644-818141 along their beams, but surprisingly those piston numbers are identical yet we can see obvious differences. I'll check piston side-to-side measurements tomorrow and see if both are comparable.

  15. #15
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    top guided stuff.. different "runs" and different "suppliers" of merc parts can have same part numbers but may have some slight differences but in essence are tha same...........

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