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Thread: 1986 laser 380
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11-26-2017, 04:28 PM #1
1986 laser 380
Hello everyone, I recently picked up a laser hull, it's not a comp hull. I am familiar with the construction of a Hydrostream and have done work of a lot of them. The question I have is, does a laser have a balsa core? And advice on this would be great!! Thanks. Nick.
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11-27-2017, 07:47 AM #2Screaming And Flying!
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How far off the bottom of the hull is the drain plug on the transom positioned? If it is 1/2'' or more that usually means a core. If real close to the bottom of the hull no core. This is not a for sure indicator, just a quickie. You can also grind away the gell cote or paint in an interior area and look for the balsa pattern or the foams color to show thru. Last test is to use a drill stopper on a small bit and drill a hole no deeper than 1/8'' deep and look at the material coming out. This one is risky and must be done with the possibility of a hole being drilled thru or nearly thru the bottom taken into consideration.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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11-27-2017, 10:44 PM #35000 RPM
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no balsa core... klegacell I believe
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11-27-2017, 10:54 PM #4
Lasers were not built with balsa. Klegecell foam core is what they used.
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Noah Burns liked this post
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11-28-2017, 04:45 AM #5
Thanks for the info guys. Does this mean I won't have to replace it?
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11-28-2017, 08:31 AM #6Screaming And Flying!
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Crawl under and check the hull for cracks very carefully. Look at the bottom for any bulges or concave areas. Also tap the bottom and listen for any "dull" areas. Plastic screwdriver handle works well. It should be the same sound all over. If no cracks and bottom sounds good and has no deformities, then it should be good to go. The core won't rot but can be damaged over time so a good inspection is your best bet. It is a 30 yr old boat. How about the transom? Any cracks in the deck area or deformities where the motor bolts on?
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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11-28-2017, 08:56 AM #7
Transom is shot. I plan on making the hull center steer without the floor. I know of a competition hull that's close to my house I'm going to copy. Any input from you guys would be great. Like I said I've done cores on hydrostreams, just wasn't sure on the lay up of a laser. Thanks again, keep the advice coming. I'll post pics soon.
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11-28-2017, 04:24 PM #85000 RPM
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typically they need transom and stringers (as well as anything else that was wood) but the core is usually good to go.
Most "competition" hulls are heavier than lake hulls by the way... the weight savings was in the decks and rigging/interior
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11-28-2017, 04:37 PM #9Screaming And Flying!
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Noah, you seem to be in the know about the Lasers. Were the boats laminated 100% with a complete layer of kevlar or was it placed just below the waterline? And if known what kind of resin? AME 4000 possibly? If so what would be the best repair resin? A reichold 100 vinylester or similar, or a conventional epoxy?
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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11-28-2017, 05:55 PM #105000 RPM
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Dion Iso resin was used from 80-85, not sure after that. As far as the layup, my 380 is full kevlar/glass hull glass deck. I'll have to look at the LTV, not sure on it, it was the third one built so probably a mix of ****.
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XstreamVking thanked for this post
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12-15-2017, 06:37 AM #11
While you are inspecting the bottom notice that the pad has a small 5 degree V and that one side is a little different than the other. DON`T fix it. It is that way for a reason. I`ve seen guys work on the pad thinking they would improve the boat performance and loose speed and handling. The designer of your boat (Roark Summerford) is a master on race boat design. One little speed secret is to turn the wheel slightly to lean the boat over to one side of the pad and watch the speedo climb just a bit.
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12-15-2017, 05:06 PM #125000 RPM
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damn right! I've heard a couple people over the years talking about 380s and how they "modded the pad" etc... just laugh in their face and walk away. She's perfect as is!
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