Going electric, 225 lopperfuel pressure?

[oldschoolnc]

I have a 94 225 LOOPER thats been built HO, Although boating 35+yrs, this is the first OB that I will be installing an electric fuel pump on. Lookin at carter p4070, 4-6psi@72gph. sound ok?
ANY TIPS OR RECOMMENDATIONS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. GOING ON A LIGHTENED UP STREAM VALERO YT, It WILL be run kinda hard... What's new,right?
Thanks in advance....

[davemvegas]

i have never had a issue with stock pump and oil injection. a new one is reasonable to buy. why try to reinvent the wheel?

[oldschoolnc]

I just dont trust the vro. Even my 95 150 OWNERS MANUAL says "for high performance use mix 50to1 oil in gas tank in addition to vro" This highly modded 225 is a high $ (at least for me) motor, just don't want to starve it of fuel or oil..... Heard something about a back to back dual diaphram vro delete pump that mounts in place of stock. Anyone heard of anything like that?
THANKS GUYS.......

[phillnjack]

dont trust the vro... thats good because vro is crap. too many varuables and too many cheapo plastic parts . and yes they even came with little yellow plugs so you could use premix if you wanted.
I no way would ever trust the vro or vro2 systems.

just get two of the old style pumps and rig them up, 1 for each bank will give plenty of fuel ,the only time they stop working is when the motor is turned off.
mix in the tank yourself and you know 100% she will be getting oil.
and yes there is a fuel pump that looks identical to the vro, just without the oil side....... look up the fuel pump for the rnli 70hp evinrude.
But its expensive if you can find one.

.

[sixpac]

I just dont trust the vro. Even my 95 150 OWNERS MANUAL says "for high performance use mix 50to1 oil in gas tank in addition to vro" This highly modded 225 is a high $ (at least for me) motor, just don't want to starve it of fuel or oil..... Heard something about a back to back dual diaphram vro delete pump that mounts in place of stock. Anyone heard of anything like that?
THANKS GUYS.......

I have no affiliation with this site or the people that work there, http://maxrules.com/fixomc-no-oil-vro.php, I did a conversion on a 150 60 deg using 2 pumps and a bracket I fabbed, works great and no 'high cost vro pumps', it can be done.

[Bullet 20cc]

dont trust the vro... thats good because vro is crap. too many varuables and too many cheapo plastic parts . and yes they even came with little yellow plugs so you could use premix if you wanted.
I no way would ever trust the vro or vro2 systems.

That VRO was a poor design from the beginning...and never got any better either. The very first thing I would do if I had one of those is jerk that sucker off and look at alternatives and mixing myself like you are doing...especially since you are gonna work it on a high performance level.

The Carter pump you mentioned should work just fine...or a Holley Red. Just get you a fused 30 amp 4 pole relay and find a hot to tap into that is live only when the key is turned on and you should be good to go. Put the pump in the boat as close to the fuel tank as possible but after any inline filtration to keep trash out of it. If you can do that you can also get rid of your primer bulb completely and just give it a 5-7 second pause in the on position on your first start of the day. Just don't forget to leave the key on when not running... You could also wire up a switch on your dash specifically for the pump but that's just something else you have to remember to switch on and off.

I plan to do the very same thing on my Yamaha the next time my mechanical pump diaphragms go bad just to not have to ever do that again. Only difference is that I will keep the Yamaha oil injection system since it is separate and outrageously reliable with the all metal gear oil pump.

[davemvegas]

I still say that the vro is a great and reliable oil system. Vro gets the blame every time a piston fails. most of the time it is a carb issue not the vro. If vro fail you would see lack of oil on all 6 cyjs and possible bearing damage. A motor runs way more efficient when it is running at 100 to 1 mix a low rpm, 50 to 1 at high rpm, and somewhere in between at cruise rpm. Until you have a motor with lack of oil signs on all cyls. stop blaming the vro.

[Bullet 20cc]

Sorry Dave...didn't mean to offend you. In theory it's a great system. I don't even know why they would even try to improve on it like they did. I wonder why they felt the need to do that...

[oldschoolnc]

THANKS TO ALL WHO RESPONDED.. I'm going electric, with relay as suggested by bullet.... Thanks.

[phillnjack]

if the vro was so good then why did omc supply all vro motors with the yellow plugs to switch to pre=mix /
and why did they NOT provide vro to any of the British armed forces or the RNLI ?

as for the ratio of oil at any given rpm OMC could not tell anyone at what rpm the oil would be delivered, this was the very reason that so many engines failed with the system.
and no not all cylinders will fail at the very same time, like with a bad water pump one will go first etc.
I have a blown engine that was due to no oil getting through at 5500 rpm and it destroyed 2 pistons and a crank on a 1995 triple.
also got another 2 pumps here that are useless and only feed oil now and then, you cannot trust it, and also lots of people have too much oil getting to the carbs on idle.

you cannot beat pre-mix for safety of the engine.

[sixpac]

the factory manual calls for no less than 3 psi at 800 rpm, no more than 4.5 psi or the needles wont hold the pressure.

[phillnjack]

that pressure is a good thing to know, sounds about right to me ..
I have never been able to find anyone who could confirm fuel pressure so thanks for the post Sixpac

[Captain75]

I use a Holley blue ,set at 6psi. Works good with fresh needles and floats set according to manual.

[olboatman]

That VRO was a poor design from the beginning...and never got any better either. The very first thing I would do if I had one of those is jerk that sucker off and look at alternatives and mixing myself like you are doing...especially since you are gonna work it on a high performance level.

The Carter pump you mentioned should work just fine...or a Holley Red. Just get you a fused 30 amp 4 pole relay and find a hot to tap into that is live only when the key is turned on and you should be good to go. Put the pump in the boat as close to the fuel tank as possible but after any inline filtration to keep trash out of it. If you can do that you can also get rid of your primer bulb completely and just give it a 5-7 second pause in the on position on your first start of the day. Just don't forget to leave the key on when not running... You could also wire up a switch on your dash specifically for the pump but that's just something else you have to remember to switch on and off.

I plan to do the very same thing on my Yamaha the next time my mechanical pump diaphragms go bad just to not have to ever do that again. Only difference is that I will keep the Yamaha oil injection system since it is separate and outrageously reliable with the all metal gear oil pump.

I agree with this as I just installed a Red in my viper but the specs say it only draws 7 amps so I used a 10 amp breaker. I switched it in the dash AND I wired it thru a tether kill switch (Sea Dog) that kills 2 circuits . It grounds the Magneto and opens the pump circuit.
Gary

[Krazymaan]

I'm running 4psi's on my carb'd Johnson GT200. Seems really good. As for the pump I am just using a no name electric marine pump and a mechanical regulator with a psi gauge attached to it, sometimes simple is better.
Red, Blue. No real difference especially if you never leave the 2.5 to 8 psi range anyway. Hell, just go with the black then.