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  1. #16
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    Timing Box? Are you referring to the Idle Stabilizer module?

  2. #17
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    throw it away along with tha Clymer.. find yourself tha right oem manual.. floats should hang level with bowl upside down and level.....

  3. #18
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    I just remembered one detail. Seems I had to relieve the gap in the stator support to clear the trigger harness for top timing. As another said, throttle plate sync is critical on these things for decent idle.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbiv56 View Post
    Timing Box? Are you referring to the Idle Stabilizer module?
    One function for that thing is to advance the timing a few degrees if idle goes too low. If it's tuned decent, it's not needed.
    The other thing it does is advance the timing a few degrees at 5000 rpm, then retard it at 5500. Again not needed, especially with a fishing boat where your load varies quite a bit, live wells, heavy partner, etc. While the vertical reed configuration limits rpm;s, the XR4 is quite comfortable to 6000 or a bit more.

    Another factoid is that this module does all that by messing with the switchbox bias voltage. If it should happen to fail shorted to ground, your timing will advance to 45 degrees or so, which is to say instant grenade on plane.

    So the general recommendation is to chit can the thing.
    To fish or not to fish? What a STUPID question.

  5. Likes Dave Strong, Bruce2, W2F a V-King liked this post
  6. #20
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    Appreciate that explanation.
    I really appreciate all the responses.
    I will apply these next time out and report back.

  7. #21
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    One thing not mentioned is a small hole in the fuel (pulse) pump diaphram can cause additional fuel to enter the intake and cause a rich/ load up idle condition. And the pump will continue to work. Cheap and easy to rebuild.
    Go Time
    2003XS GS 225 Promax
    26 Regulator twin 250 EFI

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