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  1. #1
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    Old wires are zip tied in hull - what now?

    Hello,
    I need to rewire a few electronics in my '93 Champion Fish&Ski.
    Problem: I think all the wires are zip tied together in the hull, so pulling an old wire tied to a string won't help when pulling new wires back through.
    What do people do about all these unreachable zip ties?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    leave the old wire in place and snake a new wire in..............
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  3. #3
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    They are a pain if you are trying to change/add/remove wiring from the builder's loom.

    Best option is to throw a highly competent 2 year old into any hole you can get him in and tell him to earn his diapers. Another good option is to rip out all that old brittle wiring that has probably been cut and spliced with subpar connectors and rewire the entire boat. This is what I did cuz I didn't have a toddler around. I did have to string a few wires but more often used 3/4" cpvc stuck through the boat as a temporary conduit. Just shoved the wire through it til it came out the other side and then remove the cpvc. Option 3 is to disregard wires you no longer want to use in the builder's loom and run your own with the pipe or string method and try not to think about the rat's nest you are creating in there. One or two wires won't be so bad though...

    Rewiring the boat is a little more work but new wiring gives you peace of mind in several different ways...
    96 Bullet 20cc, Yamaha OX 250+, 10" jack, labbed 30" Bravo LH w/1.25" exhaust pipes, counter rotating Bob's lower...it goes faster when you spin it the other way...

    02 Dodge Cummins 2500 reg cab 4x4, converted long to short bed, up a foot, twins, injectors, fully built auto, dyno'd 582hp/1015tq

    99 Dodge Viper GTS Coupe, 8.0L V-10, lowered 1", Corsa pipes/no cats, 450hp/500tq

  4. #4
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    I miss having 2-year-olds. Complete lunatics.
    There are so many wires in this bird's nest, that I feel like cutting everything but the ignition, and rewiring the components through a high, arched conduit above the whole deck. I'd just tell people it was a 2-way radio antenna.

  5. #5
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    Now you're thinking...you might be on to something there! You will be happy if you did a total rewire. Even put in a few extra dead wires in that can be used in future added electronics so I wouldn't have to mess with that ever again...
    96 Bullet 20cc, Yamaha OX 250+, 10" jack, labbed 30" Bravo LH w/1.25" exhaust pipes, counter rotating Bob's lower...it goes faster when you spin it the other way...

    02 Dodge Cummins 2500 reg cab 4x4, converted long to short bed, up a foot, twins, injectors, fully built auto, dyno'd 582hp/1015tq

    99 Dodge Viper GTS Coupe, 8.0L V-10, lowered 1", Corsa pipes/no cats, 450hp/500tq

  6. #6
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    I'd really like a full rewire for all the electronics, everything from the house battery. But there are so many wires...
    So many...
    The guy I bought it from a month ago, had 3 batteries. One was for cranking, plus EVERYTHING else, and two did nothing. Maybe they were just ballast?

  7. #7
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    I just replied to your other thread and now I understand what you are trying to do. As stated above it is often best to remove existing wires and start over. It's not all that hard and what you often find is changes made year after year by owner after owner do result in one horrifying mess that will make little sense. I have seen these things with 25 pounds of wires that do nothing. I like to run one power wire to a power distribution point (fuse box) and go from there. While there has to be many independent wires ran for the electronics a good portion of the redundancy can be eliminated. Best part is after the re-wire you will easily be able to trace any issues. Need any help you are at the right place.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

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  9. #8
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    It sounds scary but it isn't bad at all. Draw it all out on paper until you account for every electronic and even get someone else to look over it too just to double check. When your paper is right...duplicate it on the boat like a checklist. You will find opportunities on your paper to make your own looms and cut down on unnecessary/duplicate wiring...pretty much exactly what Rock said. If you can't find a person to look at it...I would take a look at your plan and comment... Nothing overly complicated about 12, 24 and/or 36 volt in boats...
    Last edited by Bullet 20cc; 10-17-2017 at 10:18 PM.
    96 Bullet 20cc, Yamaha OX 250+, 10" jack, labbed 30" Bravo LH w/1.25" exhaust pipes, counter rotating Bob's lower...it goes faster when you spin it the other way...

    02 Dodge Cummins 2500 reg cab 4x4, converted long to short bed, up a foot, twins, injectors, fully built auto, dyno'd 582hp/1015tq

    99 Dodge Viper GTS Coupe, 8.0L V-10, lowered 1", Corsa pipes/no cats, 450hp/500tq

  10. #9
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    ^^What rock and Bullet said

    Here's what I did, fwiw
    Remove the old harness one wire at a time, label each wire as its removed
    Draw a schematic as you go
    Make a new schematic, clean up the wiring design if desired with buss bars, fuse panel, etc.
    amphenol connectors come in handy where you don't want to rewire gauges, ignition, trim

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