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  1. #1
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    85hp V4 Mod begins

    I have started to mod my V4 85hp A 1980 Johnson V4 engine number J86TLCSA
    First things to get done are the carbs
    I have to remove the choke plates a they will be choke primer.
    Once the choke plates are removed there is a sort of small shelf for the sake of a better word that is just behind where the choke plate spindle is.I had to grind that down and flush with the throttle bodies sides.
    The holes which were left from the choke spindle i filled these with JB weld both inside and out. Then sanded down.
    I then port matched the carb to the intake manifold.
    One done to give you an idea of what they will be like before and after.
    I have asked a lot of questions on this forum and been told that i always ask the same questions well if i dont ask i dont learn.
    So for all those guys that thought i was FULL of CHIT. Asking but not doing he haw.
    I hope you are following this thread and maybe by the end of it you will be less quick to judge.
    I used a dremmel for the work on the carbs
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by spybot; 10-15-2017 at 05:38 PM.
    I like to go out in my Bikini as much as i can

  2. #2
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    Do it Spybot!! It is all about experimentation. There are some real good threads on here about block mods.... Have fun!

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldschoolnc View Post
    Do it Spybot!! It is all about experimentation. There are some real good threads on here about block mods.... Have fun!
    Thanks for the vote of confidence Oldshoolnc
    Iam sure i can build this into a wee monster
    I like to go out in my Bikini as much as i can

  5. #4
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    Threads like this are great, especially if you have documented performance numbers from start to finish.

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  7. #5
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    Just really ball park figure of hitting 40ish mph on a 660lb boat with 2 people.
    It was a pig to start as the crankseals had gone and would only run on 25/1 premix. So hopefully by the start of spring i may just have a fast wee reliable engine.
    Will post everything on here the good and the bad
    Last edited by spybot; 10-15-2017 at 12:17 PM.
    I like to go out in my Bikini as much as i can

  8. #6
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    The thing to think about this guy is it is not Mercville where you can just like do...... I want a 225 promax or a 260 or 280. He is across the pond.No one to help him get a 30 year motor running to the max. Give him a hand....

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  10. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    The thing to think about this guy is it is not Mercville where you can just like do...... I want a 225 promax or a 260 or 280. He is across the pond.No one to help him get a 30 year motor running to the max. Give him a hand....
    Thanks Dave yeah as the majority of the members are in the US over here (Scotland) trying to find someone who knows a little about the V4 crossflow is like trying to find a needle in a hay stack.

    My Bikini is the first boat i have ever owned and driven. The engine is the first outboard i have ever worked on.
    The only knowledge i have of these engines is what i have read in the factory manual.

    The only things i know about tuning this motor is what i have learned from asking questions on the forum, to some guys who know all the secrets me asking the same questions over and over is annoying.

    I will build this motor to a fast wee beastie
    Hopefully some of you guys will give me pointers if i am doing something wrong.
    Bear in mind parts are really hard to get over here, never mind being a 37 year old motor.
    Hey ho i like making things hard for myself
    Last edited by spybot; 10-15-2017 at 06:28 PM.
    I like to go out in my Bikini as much as i can

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  12. #8
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    Subed it should be a good read as you go

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  14. #9
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    So folks the first of the questions has a risen. I have come across another set of carbs from a V6 200hp
    They are the same venturi size of 1 5/16th but they have a smaller emulsion tube plus they have 2 tubes from the centre.
    Where as mine have only the holes and a taller emulsion tubes.
    They are part number 319671 they maybe MK1 carbs but i don't know. Is there a benefit to using these over the ones i already have ?Click image for larger version. 

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    I shall start a new thread with this question so to keep the build on track and i will put my findings to the reason why i choose the carb (That i end up using )
    Last edited by spybot; 10-17-2017 at 02:12 PM.
    I like to go out in my Bikini as much as i can

  15. #10
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    Here is a question I have new carb rebuild kits for these (which ever ones i use) Now should i fit the kits just now?
    Bearing in mind that the engine will not be started again till maybe February or should i just leave the kits till then ?
    My thinking is leaving the kits off till the engine is ready to start
    If i fit them they will be sitting dry for 5 months and what i don't know is how the washers/seals will be in terms of degrading if they are sitting compressed for 5 months without fuel ??? I know the fuel doesn't effect any of the outer jet seals, but it will effect the needle valve. Any thoughts on this ?????
    Last edited by spybot; 10-21-2017 at 12:15 PM.
    I like to go out in my Bikini as much as i can

  16. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by spybot View Post
    Here is a question I have new carb rebuild kits for these (which ever ones i use) Now should i fit the kits just now?
    Bearing in mind that the engine will not be started again till maybe February or should i just leave the kits till then ?
    My thinking is leaving the kits off till the engine is ready to start
    If i fit them they will be sitting dry for 5 months and what i don't know is how the washers/seals will be in terms of degrading if they are sitting compressed for 5 months without fuel ??? I know the fuel doesn't effect any of the outer jet seals, but it will effect the needle valve. Any thoughts on this ?????
    You can rebuild them now and put them in zip-lock bags to keep them clean. The gaskets won't deteriorate any faster in the kit packaging or on the carb.... the addition of fuel will start the process.
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  17. #12
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    The mod has well and truly started now the engine is in the shed.
    Today i took off the port side head and found this .Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	391901 So is this normal for a V4 looks like the piston deflector is doing a good job or is this not normal ????
    The bores are clean no scrapes but i can get a 1/64th feeler gauge between the barrel and piston is this within tolerance ???
    Hopefully i can get away with a new set of rings.
    Also noticed the bottom water deflector needs replaced.
    What are your thoughts on the piston/heads?? Is this something to worry about ????
    Last edited by spybot; 11-11-2017 at 12:55 PM.
    I like to go out in my Bikini as much as i can

  18. #13
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    on those motors there is a huge amount of play between piston and wall when cold. you can even have a gap between piston ring and the wall that on a different engine would
    show it to be worn out.
    when warmed up the gap obviously closes and the tolerance then is very close... I only found that out after getting rid of a motor I thought was worn out.

    have a look to see if any of the original cross hatching is still on the cylinder walls, if not then hone it to get them back.

  19. #14
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    Like PnJ said there's a fair amount of slop allowed. Out of round and cylinder taper top to bottom is more critical.
    '71 Glastron V153 - Composite rebuild - Unceremoniously wrecked
    '81 Baja 15 SS - "nine-paged" '77 140
    '81 Carlson C500 Metric - Currently in foster care
    '70 something Speedcraft - Allison 16R clone - Undergoing restoration
    '79 Carlson CVZ 19 - Far back burner
    WALK TALL AND CARRY A BIG BILGE PUMP

  20. #15
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    Slop is one thing but .016+ clearance. Must sound like a bag of hammers. Could 10 up the rings and still be loose after a hone.

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