School me on V6 Mercury Cowlings

**stephenspann27** · 09-28-2017, 10:14 PM

I've got an 1985 Mercury Blackmax XR2 on a dual console fishing boat. I'm wanting to both update the look of the motor and cut down on the engine noise. I understand I can convert the motor to the alien style cowl, and maybe add some sound insulation to the inside of the cowl. I a little concerned about using a cowl designed for EFI on a carbed motor, considering fuel vapor etc. Which cowling style/year would be the best for what I"m trying to accomplish?

**tlwjkw** · 09-29-2017, 05:35 AM

carb/efi don't matter... but with any up grade, alien/later production, ya really need to pull tha power head (front bracket drill and tap adapter for production, bottom pan/stud lenght for hi. perf.) ta do it right so there's that....

noise and looks i'd go with '96 up 2.0/2.5 production.....

**roadkill636** · 09-29-2017, 06:12 AM

I did it to mine. 1988 clamshell cowling

To a 2000ish bucket cowl

Before and after. Yes this IS the same mota. Just diffrent cowls... and paint

**FORBESAUTO** · 09-29-2017, 06:40 AM

Agree the 96 up fishing cowl is your best bet for noise. Looks good roadkill!

**stephenspann27** · 09-29-2017, 08:26 AM

Originally Posted by roadkill636

I did it to mine. 1988 clamshell cowling

To a 2000ish bucket cowl

Before and after. Yes this IS the same mota. Just diffrent cowls... and paint

Did you notice much difference in noise?

I should buy longer studs from a newer motor?

**stephenspann27** · 09-29-2017, 08:44 AM

Originally Posted by tlwjkw

carb/efi don't matter... but with any up grade, alien/later production, ya really need to pull tha power head (front bracket drill and tap adapter for production, bottom pan/stud lenght for hi. perf.) ta do it right so there's that....

noise and looks i'd go with '96 up 2.0/2.5 production.....

What does "Drill and tap adapter for production" mean? The exhaust adapter?

**roadkill636** · 09-29-2017, 08:45 AM

I never ran the motor before i rebuilt it and changed the cowl. So i dont know what it sounded like before the change. I just did it for the look

**stephenspann27** · 09-29-2017, 08:46 AM

If I use this style, can I get away with not pulling the powerhead? http://www.ebay.com/itm/282525990266?rmvSB=true

**roadkill636** · 09-29-2017, 08:50 AM

Uou will neex to inztall theze 2 cowl mounting brackets onto the adapter plates. I drilled mine and bolted em on. Very easy to do and fit well. Its the black pieces with the round rubber things on it

**stephenspann27** · 09-29-2017, 08:57 AM

Originally Posted by roadkill636

I never ran the motor before i rebuilt it and changed the cowl. So i dont know what it sounded like before the change. I just did it for the look

Looks like you stole your motor from an old bass boat. I did the same thing, paid $1,400 for the boat, trailer and motor.

**stephenspann27** · 09-29-2017, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by roadkill636

Uou will neex to inztall theze 2 cowl mounting brackets onto the adapter plates. I drilled mine and bolted em on. Very easy to do and fit well. Its the black pieces with the round rubber things on it

Ahh I understand now. I've never been around the newer motors so I wasn't sure how they mounted up.

**roadkill636** · 09-29-2017, 09:17 AM

Originally Posted by stephenspann27

Looks like you stole your motor from an old bass boat. I did the same thing, paid $1,400 for the boat, trailer and motor.

Yes. I call this old bass boat my "doner" boat for building my Hydrostream. Used a lot of stuff of that boat.

**W2F a V-King** · 09-29-2017, 09:18 AM

One thing to consider before you make the swap. Seeing as you mention not being familiar with the newer design...

The newer style cowl is somewhat heavier, and for maintenance work to the motor, the lower 2 piece portion stays in place bolted together on the motor with (iirc) 4 small 8mm head bolts. Kind of restricts access to the lower part of the motor.

imo, the newer style cowl seals out water better than the clam shell.

Not a big deal, but in case you were not aware of it.

**tlwjkw** · 09-29-2017, 09:36 AM

Originally Posted by stephenspann27

What does "Drill and tap adapter for production" mean? The exhaust adapter?

tha front bracket for tha production type like tha one on ebay mounts with 4 bolts that will need to be drilled and tapped in tha adapter plate... we always pulled power head or already had it off for what ever reason.. didn't feel like we could get tha holes straight and bracket positioned right with it on.....

if ya go to alien /high perf. some power head studs will be to short.....

noise is way less with production cowl.......

**stephenspann27** · 09-29-2017, 09:37 AM

Originally Posted by W2F a V-King

One thing to consider before you make the swap. Seeing as you mention not being familiar with the newer design...

The newer style cowl is somewhat heavier, and for maintenance work to the motor, the lower 2 piece portion stays in place bolted together on the motor with (iirc) 4 small 8mm head bolts. Kind of restricts access to the lower part of the motor.

imo, the newer style cowl seals out water better than the clam shell.

Not a big deal, but in case you were not aware of it.

My boat is a pig, so the weight is no worry. I don't really care a lot about the newer look, that's is a a bonus though. I'm mostly wanting to reduce noise, and if I can accomplish that by installing the newer cowl and insulating it, it's worth it for me. Thanks for pointing out that the newer design adds some extra steps to working on the lower part of the motor.