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09-22-2017, 11:54 AM #16
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09-22-2017, 11:54 AM #17
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09-22-2017, 11:55 AM #18
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09-22-2017, 11:57 AM #19
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09-22-2017, 12:15 PM #20Screaming And Flying!
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If it were mine I would go back to the basics. Motor bolted to transom. Maybe some transom wedges for more tuck under. A thru hub prop like a tempest. Motor not real hi, maybe propshaft 2''- 3'' below pad. Balance the boat from side to side with all the weight in the back. Usually batt on port side with fuel centered for side steer set up. This should help with the porpoise and if you have a lwp lower you could start to go up with the motor. Goal is to make it handle good so you can drive it, then go for more speed. jm2cts.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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09-22-2017, 02:02 PM #21
The vector pad is 1" narrower than a VKing and has a concave plus the wedge. Any boat will hook if you chop the throttle under certain circumstances. Even in my STVs over the years the scary part wasn't 120+ but getting it back in the water. At significant speeds you are putting a fairly long item back in the water coming off trim and if it don't land straight or you are not ready to compensate you will make a turn in whatever direction it re-enters the water. Amazingly the easiest to bring back down was my xr2001. I also never had an issue with a Stream coming off plane but I never had one over 100 either. Good luck and be safe.
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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09-22-2017, 06:11 PM #22
the wider pad would give you more lift...compensating for the big v-6....ive heard several guys "recommend" straightening flattening and widening the viper/vector pads
all those boats ^^^ are gonna hop at some speed...some more ....some less....the negative tuck will help you close that window....along with prop choice
ive seen a couple of vkings hook....when they blew out......and if my vector was gonna hook it would have by now ...ive been in some hairy situations with it but it never hooked.....just bounces rubrail to rubrail until it settles down81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3
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09-22-2017, 08:22 PM #23
You probably remember my build thread Cody up until life happened for me lol... I had setup very close to dialled in, I know what I started with and the direction I was going was all good. I am close (just an engine rebuild away) to getting back in the water with it, but meeting with the builders unexpectedly has given me insight I didn't have before that has made me think twice. Plus the fact that nobody has run one of these hulls to the speeds I want to run at with the confidence of say a V-King or Viper driver (believe me, when one pops up on the forums I'm all over it like a dirty shirt) makes me wonder if there will always be an issue with setup that possibly can't be solved due to hull design. That is the reason for this post, to better inform myself on pad design and how it affects a boat's handling. No I have not read Jim's article yet, just got home from work, that's next lol
Last edited by idvette; 09-22-2017 at 08:27 PM.
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09-22-2017, 08:35 PM #24
Thank you, but I am well beyond that point. I bought the boat with the motor buried and bolted to the transom with a 30" chopper on it, best of 77 mph, getting the boat to transition through the porpoise to the pad was a matter of stabbing the gas and hoping. 6" of setback and prop shaft even with the pad it was extremely flighty at all times. 50 lbs of sand in the nose helped, boat would torque sideways on throttle application from any speed, but would run 85 mph. Went to a 24" mach 3 chopper and added a drag plate, boat settled down a lot, ran the motor at 7500 plus rpm for almost 2 years. Tried a 26" chopper for a day and all the torquing I didn't like with the 30 came back, then split my gearcase in half. Then found the hull had wet wood. Then found issues with the motor. Been rebuilding for about 3 years now, gutted interior, centre steer, same motor and hoping to find a 4"setback and try again.
Last edited by idvette; 09-22-2017 at 08:38 PM.
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09-22-2017, 10:41 PM #25
ive played with my pad quite a bit......started with a flat pad....the boat ran good , handled good, up to about 87ish (this is when i first set the boat up and i was learning to drive.) the better i got and the faster i went the boat got flighty....ran srx and cleaver. had 2" setback somewhere right above pad
i then added a small wedge to the end of the pad (everthing else the same) about 1.5" long 1/8" tall ..ish.......straight across back of pad....the boat never got flighty again. went to a drag 4 prop and got speeds up to 95ish
after that i built another motor.....went to 15" mid and sporty gear case....5" setback(for additional room around hydra steering) played with several props ( drag 3, et style, cut choppers) boat handled good but it was dragging its ass...wouldnt free up ...i would have to trim to the moon to try and get back end to lift chasing higher speeds.
so i took wedge off and made an allison style lip.....0.050" tall.....4" wide in the middle fading to nothing on the sides.....boat handles best and fastest ive ever had it.....ass end lifts.....doesnt get flighty.....i cant run high prop shaft heights or itll blow out but im pleased with it.
if your pad is dead flat ...theres no reason you cant make it work....im a believer that the flat pad will get more flighty as you increase speed......those things helped mine
WASNT THERE A GUY IN CANADA THAT SET ONE UP WITH A BIG OMC? what/how did his work?
50lbs in the nose is ALOT!81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3
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XstreamVking liked this post
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09-23-2017, 06:05 AM #26
Yes, with a two thirsty five. Between tuning and setup he never had it running well either and sold it. Pretty sure the motor came off it shortly after that owner bought it, then it was sold again and I haven't heard about that hull since. There have been 3 with 2.0 150s that run ok, but all under 80 mph.
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09-23-2017, 08:20 AM #27Screaming And Flying!
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Like texasvector,you will have to mod the bottom to get what you want. A lip may be one way to settle it down so you can drive it. I have a fairly straight bottom on my V-King and it has no problems going as fast as you want. You may want to carefully examine the running surface and map it out to see what you have.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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Jimboat liked this post
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09-23-2017, 03:38 PM #28
x stream.....the Vikings seem to not have that flighty problem with the flat pad...although I'd rather have a windshield than no windshield....my buddies comp.king doesn't and I miss that comforting downforce
81' HYDROSTREAM VECTOR / slightly Modified 200
before and after:http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...inished!/page3
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09-23-2017, 05:14 PM #29Screaming And Flying!
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I've ran my boat with a w/s and w/o. It is a real nice thing to have. A little down force is very helpful on a boat that wants to go bow high anyway.
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
Rebuild thread:
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
Videos
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texasvector liked this post
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11-23-2017, 09:36 PM #30
Bump for the thread. Think I'd like to hear from someone who has widened a Hydrostream flat pad and has an a/b comparson. Have the whole winter now to think it over.
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texasvector liked this post
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