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Thread: Seaswirl transom mods...
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09-09-2017, 05:01 PM #17000 RPM
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Seaswirl transom mods...
So i was given a 19' seaswirl cuddy cabin by my aunt and uncle back in April. It spent the last 20 yrs in a barn in colorado, so its in great shape and other than its time in Florida, its been bone dry. Ive done a bunch of work to it to get it ready for the water. New seats, gutted the carpet and upholstered panels, cleaned up and gelcoated any of the bare glass where the carpet was etc.It had a evinrude xp150 on it but i have a 225 johnson with LWP and jackplate to go on it. That leads us to where we are now. The motor runs great, but after the initial test run that went great, the next day i had some (performance issues) but got back to the ramp. Next day after investigating i found the fuel filters clogged, cleaned them and another test run. Ran great for 10 min, the the alarm started to go off, looked at the filter and again clogged, idle back to ramp. I had looked in the tank when I changed the sending unit and all looked ok, had old fuel in it but the aluminum looked good and clean and the fuel i siphoned out was clean. So i empty the tank again and look inside, and sure enough there was a thin layer of hard varnish coating the inside that the new fuel had eaten loose and was clogging the filters. So after locating a replacement tank i decided to change the tank and swap motors. The new tank is bigger but fits in the same place as the other tank, although i had to remove a non-structural bulkhead to fit it. The original transom is solid, I know,I know ya right, but ive inspected it and its good. 10 years of use is all it got and my uncle took good care of it. The motor im putting on it is a little heavier and has a jackplate so i knew i wanted to strengthen the transom but not replace it yet. so I gave it some love. Waiting on the motor to get freshly painted, and thats on hold because at this moment there is a hurricane on the way. So my motor is on a pallet in the shop, and the boat is covered and hurricane strapped to the ground. Pics to follow.
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09-09-2017, 05:07 PM #27000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 05:11 PM #37000 RPM
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First thing was to insert a plug of core where the drain plug was. Wood directly in the plug was wet, the surrounding wood that i cut into was not. Then i glued and glassed a 1' piece of coosa that was previously glassed on both sides onto the transom. I added extra glass to the transom stringer joint, as the extra dark red will tell
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09-09-2017, 05:13 PM #47000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 05:15 PM #57000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 05:19 PM #67000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 05:21 PM #77000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 05:25 PM #87000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 05:26 PM #97000 RPM
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FMP liked this post
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09-09-2017, 05:27 PM #10Screaming And Flying!
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Definitely worth fixing
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09-09-2017, 05:29 PM #117000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 05:34 PM #127000 RPM
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09-09-2017, 07:37 PM #137000 RPM
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The transom was double 3/4 ply originally. its now 3.5 inch thick plus backing plates. Had to use 5 and 5.5 inch bolts to hang jackplate.
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09-10-2017, 02:46 AM #14Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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09-10-2017, 06:33 AM #157000 RPM
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yes i did, and from what ive found copper and stainless steel are not too much of a concern. But Im not a metallurgist so who knows. But if its an issue i feel bad for every underwater through hull fitting/scupper or grate fastened to the bottom of boats with stainless steel screws, some of them on aluminum hulls. If i notice any issues, i read that i can isolate the 2 from each other by coating the bolts with paint, plus the tube is ever so slightly bigger than the bolt so there is a small air gap around them. Not to mention all the sealant i used when assembled it. Thank you for asking, sorry that out of the whole post thats what you decided to comment on.
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