Solid Resin Filled Balsa Core and Transom?!?

[Droozki]

I went to have a look at a Canadian made Checkmate replica, a '79 Panther v-mate II. It had taken some abuse and showed signs of water in sections of the balsa core and in the transom. The boat had at this point been sitting on it's trailer for about 10 - 12 years since it was last in the water. It was dry as a bone.



The current owner/seller inquired on a forum about suggested repair methods and/or techniques.

It was recommended that he drill a hole through the glass to the balsa and then pour resin into the hole to soak into the balsa. Keep the process going until the balsa will no longer wick the resin away. Repeat until all the affected areas are treated.

Same with the transom. Supposedly, he poured many litres of resin into the affected areas.

According to the seller, the core and transom are now virtually solid resin.




What do you folks think? I've never heard of this method! Is it legit?

I'm not sure I want to buy the boat for a variety of reasons, but I'm very curious about this repair.

Thots? Comments? Recommendations?

Thanks folks! Much appreciated!

[Radiant]

Sounds like it would be very heavy. And maybe prone to cracking if it is just solid resin. Epoxy?

[MattGreen]

Sounds like it would be very heavy. And maybe prone to cracking if it is just solid resin. Epoxy?

Similar thoughts here. This sounds like an epoxy-consolidation project taken to the extreme. Various epoxy manufacturers market low-viscosity epoxies for rot-repair applications (in boats as well as architectural restoration applications like porches). I guess the same principle could be applied with a polyester-type resin but less strength and adhesion. I agree, sounds heavy, brittle, and I wonder if there was a big exotherm what the end result of that could have been - localized delamination ?

The solution to wet transoms and cores is not rocket science but you need to start with some sort of cutting tool.....

Matt

[Droozki]

This is kinda what I was expecting to hear and it confirmed what I was thinking!

I truly appreciate your expertise and comments. Thank you!

[tunnels]

There is only one way and that's do it properly !! what are you intending to use the boat fore eventually ?? what thickness core is there now any way of checking ??

[Droozki]

There is only one way and that's do it properly !! what are you intending to use the boat fore eventually ?? what thickness core is there now any way of checking ??

It's not mine and I don't think I'll be making an offer based upon what I know regarding his repair work.

I agree that there's really only one proper course of action to repair this kind of damage.

Thanks for your input!

Drew

[Gorilla0178]

Ha thats even a step below Seacast pour transom, but at least with that you dig all the wood out before you pour the Specially formulated resin mixture, (looks like sand and resin mixed). Its actually made it worth less, Id rather dig out a rotten transom than a solid resin one.

[Droozki]

Ha thats even a step below Seacast pour transom, but at least with that you dig all the wood out before you pour the Specially formulated resin mixture, (looks like sand and resin mixed). Its actually made it worth less, Id rather dig out a rotten transom than a solid resin one.

Yup, makes no sense to me either! Brittle and heavy!!

[W2F a V-King]

Also can't see it "wicking" into ALL areas, leaving pockets untreated and thus weak.

Not to mention any resins used with activators have a time limit before locking up solid. Wicking takes some time.

[tunnels]

Patch up and doing jobs on the cheap have a bad habit of biting you later and end up costing 2 or 3 times what I would have cost if it had been done properly in the first place !
While its all loose its easy to get out and easier to get ready for the new core , same with the transom rotten wood you can just tear it out with you hands if its really bad .