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  1. #1
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    How to restore transom that has been cut down?

    We bought a 15" fiberglass utility boat with a 25hp engine for the kids to fish with. Boat was made with a 20" transom (glass over wood), but some time in it's life it was cut down to 15". I'd like to put it back to 20". Every thing is very solid, no rot or cracks. Can I add a 5" piece of wood and glass over it and down both the front and back of the original transom? What else would you do to tie it together?

    The engine will be on the 5" addition, so even though it's only 25hp it needs to be strong. I though about adding some angle iron on both sides of the transom and on each side of the engine thru bolted at the bottom on original transom and at the top to the new piece, but that seems kind of a lame way to do it.

    If I did it in glass only, would it be strong enough? What wood? What fiberglass? And what cloth and how many layers to do the job?

    Thanks,
    Bill
    STV Euro 2.5XS -sold
    Baja 252 Islander 496 Mag
    Nitro Z7 200 Pro xs

  2. #2
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    Have lived and worked in New Zealand ,Tahiti,Australia,Japan , south Korea, And now Suzhou in China
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baja 252 View Post
    We bought a 15" fiberglass utility boat with a 25hp engine for the kids to fish with. Boat was made with a 20" transom (glass over wood), but some time in it's life it was cut down to 15". I'd like to put it back to 20". Every thing is very solid, no rot or cracks. Can I add a 5" piece of wood and glass over it and down both the front and back of the original transom? What else would you do to tie it together?

    The engine will be on the 5" addition, so even though it's only 25hp it needs to be strong. I though about adding some angle iron on both sides of the transom and on each side of the engine thru bolted at the bottom on original transom and at the top to the new piece, but that seems kind of a lame way to do it.

    If I did it in glass only, would it be strong enough? What wood? What fiberglass? And what cloth and how many layers to do the job?

    Thanks,
    Bill
    It would have to be strong before the glass gets added and should never rely completely on the glass alone its just a cover to keep the water out that's all !!
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

  3. #3
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    I would cut some 3/4'' plywood into strips 1/2'' narrower than the existing trans. Cut them to length to fit the cut out. Grind the old trans area down to original wood, tapering out the area 2-3'' all around. Then to rebuild, put very wet glass under and between each piece stacking it up until you have added about 4 3/4 inches of height. ( may have to screw down 2 layers at a time in place if they slide) 4 pcs of 3/4' ply and the glass between should do it. Let cure then grind the whole area smooth. (rounding the top edge) Cover with a few layers of bi-axial going up and over the strips. Each piece bigger than the last, going out into the tapered area. Cover it all with matt and grind smooth. Apply gell to match. A bit more hassle than just glassing in some big filler pcs, but much stronger using the glass and wood strips laminated on edge. jm2cts...

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  4. #4
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    I have fixed several of them with a piece of lam beam. Post a picture of your transom. If the wood is dry and rot free you can attach it to the existing wood with a good wood glue and a couple lag bolts then glass over it as described above. Good glue is stronger than the wood itself.

    Rock
    Team Junk

    No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.

    "Screamin Heathen"

  5. #5
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    its a skiff, and simple enough with an exposed interior I think you are better off building yourself a new transom.
    By the time you cut, glass, bodywork, gelcoat/paint, have angles cut and drilled to reinforce I think you would be better off just building yourself a new transom.
    Might sound extreme but I think its simpler and there will be no doubt as to its strength.

    Even if you kept it simple and did glass work and covered it with alum talking about additional weight of that alum plates and angles, bolts, sealant, rather see it with a new transom and no cause for concerns

  6. #6
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    3 options, all good solutions to the problem...

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  7. #7
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    Another option is a T&R TE-217 aluminum extension. A little on the expensive side but about as quick a job as there is. Look it up online and see if it would suit you. Check out Ebay also...saw one on there at one time.

  8. #8
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    I did not know t&R made such a thing. Another good option.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  9. #9
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    guys used to build those themselves. have it welded up and slip a piece of pressure treated inside of it, looks to be the same principle and reasonably priced too

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