Beating a Dead Horse. To Block Off or Not to Block Off Mercury Oil Injection

[Capnmoench]

Must have been something with the pasting in the text box. After retyping it, it posted fine.

[Fishinmymission]

When you say the gear looks good you mean the metal gear you removed looks good or you shined a flashlight through the opening from removing the gear and you inspected the plastic gear on the crank while rotating the flywheel by hand? Just remember its the plastic gear on the crank shaft that will wear or break the metal one you can pull out should never really wear or break.

Also once you have the oil injection system all set up you could briefly unplug the motion detection sensor wire and I bet it instantly starts sounding the beeping oil injection horn. When i was at low rpm and my messed up plastic gear was skipping teeth it would rapidly start and restart the beeping cadence so it actually beeped faster and more eradically than the normal beep beep beep. I thought it was a short at first on the temp or start horn but after tracing everything and discovering the condition of my plastic gear I finally thought that it was picking up good signals mixed with bad signals depending on if it skipped or not. And at high rpm I think it had enough momentum to not skip any of the missing teeth.

[Capnmoench]

When you say the gear looks good you mean the metal gear you removed looks good or you shined a flashlight through the opening from removing the gear and you inspected the plastic gear on the crank while rotating the flywheel by hand? Just remember its the plastic gear on the crank shaft that will wear or break the metal one you can pull out should never really wear or break.

Also once you have the oil injection system all set up you could briefly unplug the motion detection sensor wire and I bet it instantly starts sounding the beeping oil injection horn. When i was at low rpm and my messed up plastic gear was skipping teeth it would rapidly start and restart the beeping cadence so it actually beeped faster and more eradically than the normal beep beep beep. I thought it was a short at first on the temp or start horn but after tracing everything and discovering the condition of my plastic gear I finally thought that it was picking up good signals mixed with bad signals depending on if it skipped or not. And at high rpm I think it had enough momentum to not skip any of the missing teeth.

Yes, the plastic gear is pristine. Looks like it was replaced. It's already done and removed. Maybe one day I'll go back to it, but I'll see how I like running it like this and how bad it really is to premix for now.That is what I was afraid of is skipping teeth at higher RPM and not getting the full flow, but without knowing if the alarm system compares rotation to RPM, I don' t know if it would beep under cruise if it was not fully defective but limited due to a partial failure.

[nitro_rat]

I find it super easy to premix with one of the available mixing bottles (graduated for different mix ratios on the side if you haven't seen one, you can get one anywhere they sell outdoor power equipment or boating stuff). Here's my procedure:

(From empty, I use 6 gallon tanks)

• Fill the tank about half way
• Add appropriate amount of oil to the mixing bottle
• Empty mixing bottle into tank
• Contine to fill tank to "almost full"
• Add final amout of gas to mixing bottle
• Screw cap on mixing bottle and give it a little shake to wash it out
• Pour final oil/gas mixture into tank

This process leaves the mixing bottle clean for the next time and ensures accurate filling of the tank. It also mixes the oil and gas more thoroughly. It's bad to pour the oil in an empty tank!

Following the same procedure each time repetitively makes it less likely to miss a step (same as ramp ritual/putting the plug in the boat). It's best to do the same routine each time.

If the tank isn't empty and you're just topping off, I:

• Fill the tank "almost" to the desired level
• Add the appropriate amout of oil to the mixing bottle
• Add the last bit of gas to the mixing bottle
• Screw the lid on the bottle and give it a little shake to rinse the oil off the sides
• Pour the oil/gas mix in the tank

Not as critical here when you add the oil to the tank as there should already be a significant amount of premix in there.

This is just the way I do it, it works for me.

When you add the gas to the mixing bottle, just give it a little swish to wash the oil off the sides. Open the lid carefully, if you have shaken too "vigorously" it will be akin to a soda bottle that's had a good shake!

[Capnmoench]

Thanks. I'm running a bit more fuel. My plan was to throw 1 gallon oil into a 5 gallon can, fill and shake, and toss it in there. Then put 50 gallons on top. The trick is going to be if I need to top it off at the full 80 gallons.

[Capnmoench]

46 gallons on top I mean.

[nitro_rat]

Concept works the same no matter how big your tank is!

[Capnmoench]

Yup. Agreed.. I was just saying my mixing bottle will be the 5 gal can and measuring straight gallons of oil will be my go-to.

[H2Okie]

I'm running a 20 year old EFI Merc motor with the oil injection system still intact and figure I need to do something pretty quick . I bought one of those "Marine Solutions " motor driven oilers but have not installed it yet . The concept makes sense and I thought about putting a momentary test switch in for stopping the pump motor to test the alarm on the water to prove it's working . My boat is used primarily for fishing and some of the waters I fish have painfully long 5MPH zones so a 50:1 premix is not a good option at those lakes . Another possible solution I am toying with is a small aux tank mixed at 80:1 +/- that I could valve to the motor for these long no wake zones and premix the main tank at 50:1 .

[nitro_rat]

I'm running a 20 year old EFI Merc motor with the oil injection system still intact and figure I need to do something pretty quick .

My 40 year old carbed motor will handle idling for prolonged periods mixed at 40:1. You don't think a modern injected motor will handle a no wake zone at 50:1? Maybe you got bigger problems than worrying about the oil injection...

[W2F a V-King]

If your motor is loading up and wanting to run rough, foul plugs or stall with extended idle speeds, imo...there is something not set up right.

Your easiest, simplest, surefire way to get past this worry is to delete the old injection system.

Try that first, (before spending all that $$ on a system you are unsure of) Premix @ 50:1 if your not spinning up much over stock rpm.

If you still have idle issues after this....it's not the amount of oil being injected. It's something else...

I premix 40:1 in my 2.0 150 on my bass boat. I idle around quite a bit myself...ZERO stalling issues. Yes there is a bit of smoke. Still run stock surface gap plugs. In 2 years haven fouled one yet.

I mix 40:1 only because I spin it up a bit over stock rpm for extended fun runs. Could really do 50:1 with no real worries. I am one of those guys that lets my motor warm up before scooting off. jmo...

Your gonna remember to switch to and from 80:1 back to 50:1....what happens if you forget ?

[CircleHook]

" I'm about out of my 50:1 break in mix" I was thinking break in to be more like 25-1

[SUNKIST]

i havent seen this mentioned much but its in the manual. for those of you that want to keep using the oil injection do a volume test. rig an auxillary tank premix. run it and dump the oil coming out of the injection tube in a cc container for 5 minutes. it will tell you at idle how much the gear is pumping out. i did this on a 91 200 and it ended up being half the amount merc said it should be, the gear itself looked pristine though after removing it...high rpm performance motors should never use oil injection

[grimm]

follow

[XstreamVking]

There is an adjustment on the oil inj pump to raise or lower the amount pumped. The pre mixed tank method sunkist described above is how to allow safe adj of it.