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Thread: Hydrostream chine walking
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08-11-2017, 07:44 AM #1Junior Member
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Hydrostream chine walking
Hi All,
I'm having trouble with my Hydrostrea Vassarette YT chine walking really bad and cannot drive through it. Boat is equipped with a somewhat built 200 promax w/ hydraulic jack plate and set back about 8" I tried various pitches of the Laser II prop. I'm not looking to do 90mph (Yet), but i can barley get over 60 and it starts walking around really bad. I've tried to various heights and nothing seams to help. Its been a problem since I've owned the boat (Couple yrs) and really don't understand why I'm having this problem.
Any help appreciated!
Chris
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08-12-2017, 06:58 AM #26000 RPM
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As you can see from my screen name, I'm no expert! I'm a new owner of a Valero YT. This is worth reading. http://www.screamandfly.com/content....-How-To-Fix-It. Coming from a newb... I've found that running around at mid speed with a decent amount of trim and then hammering the throttle results in chine walk. I've learned to trim in some to get it to settle down. Experimenting with trying to correct with steering input also with some limited success. I also switched to a small hub prop (chopper et cut). Others, more experienced, told me through hub props are not what we should be running. My boat handles better with the chopper prop and also is able to pull more pitch since the small hub allows the exhaust to ventilate the prop allowing it to slip out of the hole. I'm running a 28 pitch.
I was used to running more positive trim in my fishing boat but I've come to the conclusion the YT hulls are so light that less trim is needed to maintain stability. Particularly once it starts to pack some air. I was startled the first time I floored it from mid speed and it started oscillating like crazy. In other words, an appropriate amount of trim for 45-50mph cruise it too much if you go ahead and hammer the throttle. Try less trim. Mine chine walks with the through hub prop and also the small hub prop but overall the boat runs better with the small hub prop. About even or slightly below the pad level (within an inch). If you have low water pick up etc.
Here's a thread I started asking for advice. http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-and-questions
Good luck, and wear a life jacket and keep the kill switch lanyard attached. Maybe some others more experienced will chime in.
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rgsauger liked this post
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08-12-2017, 09:03 AM #3
Hi Chris. Suggest one thing at a time.
1. Steering What type of steering do you have? Is there any end play if you shake the motor left and right by hand (holding on near the back of the cavitation plate)?
2. Stabilize motor height. Once you have the steering tight, now we'll need to set up your motor height. In the long run, I would consider selling that hydraulic jack plate and get a light weight manual. For now, I would start by dialing in the bottom of the pad to the centerline of the prop shaft (with hull and shaft level). Make a highly visible mark on the jackplate so that you'll know exactly where that zero spot is (while in the captain's seat).
3. Balance weight (side to side) and remove that 50# anchor, waterskiis, surfboards, 40 quart coolers, boom boxes, etc...
4. Trim Do you have a mechanical trim gage? If not, you'll want to get this in the long run (so you know exactly where your motor is).
5. Learn to fly SAFELY. Once that is done, you'll have to learn how to "man-handle" the beast. Drive right on through the speed at which it begins to chine by turning a tad left, and then making one or two small wiggles of the steering to negate the chine wobble, and you'll be amazed when she straightens out. 60mph is about the speed she wants to get up on the pad. entire boat will ride higher than normal out of the water (it's normal provided the nose isn't sky high). Hang on, and bump the trim for more speed.
6. Safety. Assume you have a nose cone, otherwise don't exceed 75mph (blowout). You'll need to have a kill switch wired to your safety vest (get a good one), and I would have a friend in another boat on hand to observe and for backup. Good luck, seat time, seat time, and more seat time, and always please be safe... Remember that you'll have to look out further (distance) the faster you go.
Best wishes. Post a video once you get it sorted...
1989 Allison XR2002 200 Promax (Thank you Nelson!)
2014 King of the Hill 85 V-King 200 Promax (they let me win) Sold
88 yellar laser 175 black max (Thank you Robby!) Sold
79 Viper 115 Johnnyrude (sold)
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08-12-2017, 10:11 AM #4
My vking yt chine walks around 70-80. I ran a 3blade et and a 4blade promax. The promax wheel helped alot on the chinewalk. I havent spent much time dialing it in but youll need the weight in the boat equal on both sides and 6-8in of setback. The yt hull is known for the chinewalk. I trim down alittle and punch it to get pass the chinewalk fast. Once pass it shes on rails into the 90s. Good luck keep us posted
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08-14-2017, 02:53 PM #5
I would keep the hydraulic plate so you can bury the prop when you have people in the bow. A friend has a vasseret 6" hydraulic jp, 200 2.4 merc, 26" chopper, runs high 70's
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