Doral 164 CD rebuild

[Aktmboyd]

So this build thread is in direct relation to the fact that I reside in an area that is supposedly uninhabited, and I would like to share the trials and tribulations that one has living and trying to rebuild a boat this far North. And also the fact that with me living this high north I would or should, have zero interest in performance of any kind. All of this is wrong and I and most here except the elderly absolutely love performance and yes we do live Very much farther North than most. So here we go.

Location - Kimmirut, Nunavut, Canada. Population 485
Boat -198? Doral 164CD(closed deck)
motor -2000 Johnson 200hp C/W 225hp carbs
Jack plate - 6" setback Bob's hydro plate
Prop - 21"P Merc rev 4
Top speed T/D 55mph
Target top speed 70mph
Steering - Uflex Hydraulic

Current top speed of the boat was 55mph(GPS) at 5500rpm prior to a case of wicked chine walk do to the hulls structure being completely rotted beyond belief and the hull flexing like a wet noodle. Here are some pics of my rotten ugly duckling and what I have done so far.

As you can see doral decided to not completely encapsulate the stringer allowing them to rot in short order, the transom was soaking wet but surprisingly very little rot had set in it was just very flexy by the torque the motor was putting on it do to probably the 6" set back jackplate.

I have been dismantling and grinding for 2 straight weekends in a row, raining like crazy today so all is at a stop. But almost all of the hull is clean, Well I thought it was anyways that was until I noticed how light the color of the old CSM stringer tabbing on the hull was. So I took the claw end of a hammer and sure enough jabbed it right under the edge of the tabbing allowing me to tear the poorly saturated CSM factory garbage that Doral had done right off, also there was no abrading of the hull done prior to the stringers being tabbed down so the Poly resin is barely grabbing at all, also no bedding compound was used between the stringers and the hull. But hey what else could be expected from a boat built in the 80's and one that probably cost $8-10 thou brand new with motor.

So it is my time to make things new and better, all is getting done with ARK Composites epoxy and a lot better glass than CSM.

[Aktmboyd]

more pics

[Aktmboyd]

Doral had a 2 layer keel stringer made from a 2x8 spruce (full of knots) on top of a 2x3 which was nailed together and then tabbed to the hull with broken bits of CSM. Amazingly enough the top of the 2x8 was completely rotted and the bottom 2x3 was in perfect shape, it must have been pressure treated. Then they had a pair of 3/4" stringers outboard of the keel stringer near the chines also made from what was either spruce or could have possibly been pine(full of knots as well) and also tabbed with intermittent pieces of CSM. Now I cannot get any sort of sitka spruce our other suitable marine timber but I was able to source locally in town here, amazingly enough 13 ply 3/4" exterior plywood, the normal 4 hour boil, 20 hour dry @180*, 4 hr boil and then stress test, proved the glue and wood would be suitable.

So my thoughts are at the moment but could change in the near future for something better is,
-Keel stringer will be a standard 8:1 scarf joint single 3/4" ply stringer right to the transom and then get 2 layers of 13oz uni down its length to bring it near the strength that was originally intended for the hull to have
-Second set of strakes will receive the same 3/4" ply treatment (there was no stringers here originally) but they will not get the uni treatment, these will then transition into a pair of knees on either side of the motor bolt area
-third set of stringer in the original outboard strake position, will, be again 3/4" ply but again no uni treatment
All of this is getting tabbed to the hull which is being ground with 24 grit disc with 1800 doublebias 8" tape and total encapsulation with epoxy. As you can see I have no problem with using wood in a boat and I believe it can and will be built 100% better then the factory with less wood just better materials and workmanship. And if the wood lasts 20-30 years and then rots I couldn't really care because I doubt I will still own this hull then

[SCT]

Very cool project w- a whole different set of circumstances than your average Screamandflyer, Aktymboyd! Talk about having to think ahead when ordering supplies.i landed near you in Iquluit one time for fuel.....you guys are up there!

Good luck-

[Aktmboyd]

Very cool project w- a whole different set of circumstances than your average Screamandflyer, Aktymboyd! Talk about having to think ahead when ordering supplies.i landed near you in Iquluit one time for fuel.....you guys are up there!

Good luck-

IQ now that's quite a town isn't it. We here call it the Las Vegas of the North only because it is the only place on Baffin Island with Bars

[Aktmboyd]

P.S. it usually takes 2 weeks for something to get here when you place an order over the net. And the DG charge on stuff like poly resin is nuts thats why i am using epoxy I can order from Noahs in Toronto and it is sent via Canada post to my po box. Still bloody expensive though, extra $60 per 1 1/2gallon kit of epoxy. For the glass and 3 gallons of epoxy that I last ordered from Noah's the shipping bill was almost $300

[Aktmboyd]

So this question might be posted in the wrong area but maybe one of you can help. I am thinking on putting a Bobs external exhaust on the motor to free up some horsepower, is it worth it? The problem I have as of now is when you shift from neutral to forward with the prop that is on there now it bangs terribly hard and the boat lurches forward because of the thrust. Idles around 7-800 rpm. But if I pull more exhaust away from the prop at idle will it not bang into gear harder. I guess a neutral override could be added and start it in gear but I was just wondering the thoughts on external exhausts and their benefits and downfalls. P.S. there are no noise police where I am located so that's no biggy and also I do love the sound of a high strung 2 temp motor