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08-06-2017, 09:35 PM #31
Get rid of the extra set back on the eliminator and bolt the motor right to the factory bracket 3/4 above the pad and run a 30-32 semi high rake cleaver.
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08-07-2017, 05:17 AM #32Junior Member
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08-07-2017, 05:59 AM #33Junior Member
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[Reply to phillnjack]
The guy I spoke with is a "Master Mechanic" from Mercury school. I know he is good because his successes run past my place regularly at 90MPH and a lot of folks on the lake use him. I made a remark that he wasn't aware of the "tricks" to the other guy who got defensive accusing me of saying the mechanic was incompetent and throwing out the S&F remark. I went there to get some free advise (5-min.) because I thought we were all friends. I was 99% sure what I learned here on S&F was correct I just wanted someone who put together these motors frequently who could peak at it and tell me if I missed anything. I'm a cheapskate and would rather spend my money on tools and do it myself. I learned by doing and started very young tinkering with lawn mowers then go-carts then cars and boats. Some guys just learn this stuff in school and don't grow up with it. I would trust the guy to build a good engine and stand behind it. I will never go back there because I didn't like their attitudes.Last edited by gmaff; 08-07-2017 at 06:05 AM. Reason: wrong place
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08-07-2017, 08:34 AM #34
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08-07-2017, 10:35 AM #35
One of my best friends is a master tech that owns a dealership and I feel the same about his abilities but he has little knowledge about modifications or what works with what. They know what they have been taught and work on them all from the 5 horse up to the current models but could not tell you the difference tween a top and bottom guided motor or probably even why there is a difference. My guess is that it's very common among dealers that don't hot rod or modify.
RockTeam Junk
No sparkling wiggles in here, only dump truck grinches.
"Screamin Heathen"
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W2F a V-King, roadkill636 liked this post
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08-07-2017, 12:24 PM #366000 RPM
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W2F a V-King liked this post
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08-07-2017, 04:21 PM #37Junior Member
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You got me thinking... Hmm, haven't started that in years, maybe it's time to run some oil through it. Started today, running 16:1(Pre-mix) so that's why all the smoke.
Hot steamy water when thermostats open (heads are too hot to hold onto) Is this normal. Hasn't had the ECU recall for lean burn. What ECU do I need?
Why a "T" Should this connect to something? I don't recall. Line on right goes to remote oil tank.
Lots of air here - Looks like oil system is not working
Had mice in garage last year (not in Promax!). Blocked entry as insurance.
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08-07-2017, 06:03 PM #385000 RPM
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The "T" is for the remote oil tank, should be a hose on the starbord side bottom under the starter going into a valve that pressureizes the remote tank then the other hose from the tank goes into that "T"
Allison xb 2003, 280 ROS
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08-07-2017, 08:57 PM #39Junior Member
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From the tank there is a twin hose and both are connected, one to that "T" and one to the block, I think. I tried blowing through the "T" and couldn't. It's not too important anyway because I plan to strip all the oil Inj off and run premix only. I like the secure feeling of knowing if it running its also burning oil too.
Gary
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08-07-2017, 09:03 PM #40
nothin' goes on tha bare nipple.. its a relief.
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08-07-2017, 09:46 PM #41
143 degree t stats the heads should be very warm to the touch at idle.
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