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  1. #1
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    "What you read on Scream & Fly is B.S" Quoted by local boat shop

    Hi,

    I wanted to rebuild a 1991 Mercury V200 early 2.5L engine. I bought this engine used which had a badly melted piston (Middle on Port bank). The motor had been opened up and left in the rain so the crank and rods are trashed. I have been reading threads both here and elsewhere that said it is possible to install a 150HP 2.4L crank in my V200. I found a decent 1980's 150 crank for cheap and bought it. Some of the information on the threads is confusing and having never tried this before I did a mockup of the crank installation and brought it to the local boat shop for advice on whether it would work. I have never been in there before but thought I might get help as I gave one of their buddies kids a pretty nice Sidewinder boat for free. That boat has been showcased on their front webpage for over a year as one of their achievements. I even told them that I'm the guy who donated the boat. Still, they were not interested in helping me. I guess not opening my wallet meant no dice, although, I could have used them for some tuning once the motor was completed. They reluctantly looked at the mockup crank installation I did from the info on the threads I read. One guy said to the other "ever hear of a 2.4 crank fitting into a 2.5" and the answer was no. Then without reason they told me it was a "Frankenstein motor" which would be a "Time bomb" and would not work. I had just came from the machinist who is boring the block and he could see no reason why it would not work. I used to know an expert Mechanic at who could have told me in two seconds if it would be good or not and why.

    My question to you is, can you tell if my mockup is correct?

    Here's what I did.

    1) The original 1991 2.5L V200 crank has two inner main bearings that have larger rollers making the outside diameter of the bearing race larger than the bearings from the 1980's 2.4L crank.
    I used the larger bearings from the 2.5L crank which fit the journal and the block.

    2) The top bearing journal on the 2.5L is larger than the one on the 2.4L crank.
    I installed the 2.4L bearing and cap instead of the 2.5L because the bearing is the correct size for the crank and the cap is the correct size to fit the block.

    This is a one off early 2.5L built in 1991 which is a bottom guided motor. All the bearings, Main and rod are plastic caged from both motors and both had the 8118 rods.

    I believe the information I got from you folks is correct and have faith that this motor will run well. Please look at the photos and let me know if I did it right. I only installed half of each of the inner main bearings to show fitment of the bearing and race.

    Gary M.

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    P.S. I need a set of 6 new oversize pistons .015" Port bank cylinders were all off size and starboard bank was in spec but pistons are not. Also, need Port head too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1.jpg  

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmaff View Post
    Hi,

    One guy said to the other "ever hear of a 2.4 crank fitting into a 2.5" and the answer was no.
    this is true.....

    production 2.4 cranks used a metal cased center main that will not work ina 2.5

    a 2.0 crank will.. tha 2.0 used plastic centers but at a smaller od..

    you will notice tha 2.0 has "shoulders" on tha 2 center mains.. thats why you can use "plastic" center mains in either small (pre fat block) or large od (post fat block).......
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 08-03-2017 at 09:20 PM.

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    Maybe this is not a 2.4 crank after all. The crank came with the 8118 rods, smaller dia. pistons (765-7442) and plastic caged bearings for rods and mains. The two cranks look identical except for the top main journal which is smaller. How do I identify the crank I was told it was from a 150hp motor.

  5. #5
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    Sounds like a 2.0 liter. Measure piston diameter. If it's a 2.0 crank it will work fine in your 2.5

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmaff View Post
    (1.)Maybe this is not a 2.4 crank after all. The crank came with the 8118 rods, smaller dia. pistons (765-7442) and plastic caged bearings for rods and mains. The two cranks look identical except for the top main journal which is smaller. (2)How do I identify the crank, I was told it was from a 150hp motor.
    1. only 2.4 crank that works ina fat block is hi performance, non-oilier.. uses "plastic center mains"..

    2. if tha crank is oilier, has "shoulders" on center mains with plastic it has to be a 2.0 150 or from a 2.5 style block..

    " 2.0 150" only (all of 'em).... will have "shoulders" on tha two center mains and work fine in tha 2.5 (fat block) style block...

    "2.4 150" (XR4 was only 2.4 150 built)..... will not have "shoulders" and cannot be used in tha 2.5 (fat block) style block... except tha "91 XR4 it is tha only production 2.4 crank made for tha "fat block" (2.5 style block)

    no shoulders on center mains, no worky ina fat block, period.. except for some hacks...
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 08-04-2017 at 09:27 PM.

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  8. #7
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    It seems to be a 2 l crank .Photos show that crank has shoulders in the center mains , and non shouldered center main bearings.
    I cannot see any problem using the above combo. I have used 2 l cranks in 2.5 s with no issues. ( unless the pic is deceiving me)


    18 ft Speedcraft - Offshore

    Bottle Fed Merc tuber 2.4

  9. #8
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    Here's what I got:

    V200 (orig bad crank):

    - Two inner journals = 1.375" I.D.
    - 12 roller top bearing = 1.375" I.D/2.30" O.D. Cap = casting number 1159-9642-C with 4-1032 threaded holes.
    - Piston diameter = 3.4875"

    150 (replacement good crank):

    - Two inner journals = 1.375" I.D.
    - 21 roller top bearing = 1.5" I.D/2.0640" O.D. Cap = casting number 7159-7402 with 3-1032 threaded holes.
    - Piston diameter = 3.1"

    I'm not sure what a oiler crank is. Both my cranks have no oil holes in any journals. Both cranks used all plastic caged mains and steel caged big end rod bearings. I was mistaken on the rod bearing cage type in a previous post. Both cranks have smooth (machined) shoulders for the mains and rods. I want to install the 150 crank with the two big O.D. inner bearings and the top bearing/cap (7159-7402) from the 150. Will I have to add the 4th 1032 threaded hole in the cap. What are these holes for?

    Best deal on oversize pistons I can find are Wiseco's. Should I go with them? I heard a lot of bad things although the machine shops swear by them.

    Gary M.

  10. #9
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    You have a 2l crank, it'll work fine. Get some .015 vertex pistons from pro marine.

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  12. #10
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    Ive got a 98 2.5l 200 that has a 2.4l metal caged crank in it, no problems with it and it will twist 6500 all day longi did have to use the metal caged bearings but it worksClick image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Ajskennels; 08-04-2017 at 12:22 PM.
    Allison xb 2003, 280 ROS

  13. #11
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    I've never heard of it working very long. Usually chews bearings up.

  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmaff View Post

    I'm not sure what a oiler crank is.

    ...

    Best deal on oversize pistons I can find are Wiseco's. Should I go with them? I heard a lot of bad things although the machine shops swear by them.
    An oiler crank is a crank for oil injection.

    Wisecos might be better now than the used to, but do like the Captain says and get Vertex pistons from Pro Marine.
    Markus' Performance Boating Links:
    www.toastedmarshmallow.com/performance

  15. #13
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    +2 on pro marine vertex. Mike.
    Cheaters never Win !!!

  16. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajskennels View Post
    Ive got a 98 2.5l 200 that has a 2.4l metal caged crank in it, no problems with it and it will twist 6500 all day longi did have to use the metal caged bearings but it worksClick image for larger version. 

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    guess your "livin' right".. i was to much of a "sinner" ta get away with that ****!

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  18. #15
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    The main bearing ID's are the same on all fishing motor blocks no matter if its a 2.0, 2.4, or 2.5, only diffrence ive found is the bearing journals on the crank are diffrent, use the correct bearings and you have no problems, i put a crank from a 78 175 2.0 into a 95 small bearing 260 and the guy has regulary turned it 8k for the past 3 summers, i put 1 from a 79 150 in another 95 260 just a few weeks ago, its only been ran in the driveway so i cant say about that one, and i cant say about any other hipo block either
    Allison xb 2003, 280 ROS

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