More Troubling OMC Looper Video Footage

**H2OPERF** · 07-23-2017, 11:00 AM

Sounds like your going the wrong way with the idle low timing stop screw , the tube will raise the idle but only lower it to the stop.. and bum is correct on ur 88

**Krazymaan** · 07-23-2017, 11:23 AM

I agree with the Bum too. Dwell was the word I was searching for but couldn't come up with. Just that everyone in my last three treads say turn the thumbscrew for idle. But who am I to argue. LOL.
So back to square 1. Wait for the guy to send me the correct carbs next week and call cdi again on Monday and have them make me perform checks while they are on the phone so I can return this stuff.

**racer** · 07-23-2017, 08:06 PM

Best way IMO to set idle on these is to start by making sure when the throttle linkage is all the way back the line on the cam is centered on the roller (Verify carbs fully shut) and move roller until it has .010 clearance to the cam. Back the idle stop screw (under flywheel port side) all the way off. They only used this screw from 88 to 92, on 93 it was removed and then later went back to the earlier idle advancement screw as they were better. Now using the black knob you should be able to set the idle rpm once it is warm and quick start is disengaged, the knob was at one time called dwell adjustment and later idle adjustment. It does not change spark dwell but when it fires (timing). Engine should idle at about 4ATDC, once set and idling proper you can turn the stop screw until it just starts to touch the timer base. It should be set at neutral trim floating in the water. Done it this way for years with great results.

What wrong with the carbs you have?

**flabum1017** · 07-23-2017, 08:55 PM

Originally Posted by racer

Best way IMO to set idle on these is to start by making sure when the throttle linkage is all the way back the line on the cam is centered on the roller (Verify carbs fully shut) and move roller until it has .010 clearance to the cam. Back the idle stop screw (under flywheel port side) all the way off. They only used this screw from 88 to 92, on 93 it was removed and then later went back to the earlier idle advancement screw as they were better. Now using the black knob you should be able to set the idle rpm once it is warm and quick start is disengaged, the knob was at one time called dwell adjustment and later idle adjustment. It does not change spark dwell but when it fires (timing). Engine should idle at about 4ATDC, once set and idling proper you can turn the stop screw until it just starts to touch the timer base. It should be set at neutral trim floating in the water. Done it this way for years with great results.

What wrong with the carbs you have?

There are a couple ways to do it with these engines. The apparatus with the black knob has a spring in it. The real purpose of it was to allow the throttle linkage to continue to advance to WOT after the timer base hit the max timing screw. The engines with the extra stop screw under the flywheel, I'd just leave the roller loose, set the idle timing with the stop screw under the flywheel and carbs closed then set the roller. lastly, I'd set the thumbscrew so the timing would begin advancing as soon as the throttle linkage started moving. If the engine didn't have the idle timing screw under the flywheel, then I'd do it the way Racer described. Either way will work.

**flabum1017** · 07-23-2017, 08:58 PM

Have you tried running it with the plug with the two black/yellow wires going to the power pack disconnected?

**H2OPERF** · 07-23-2017, 10:54 PM

I think they meant by dwell on the post 86/87 with the low side timing stop was by turning the tube/black knob in past the point where the trigger hits the low stop it will cause the the timing to lag or dwell behind the carbs... what I always thought anyways... definitely not changing coil charge times like you would think in ignition dwell.. Hope those people do you right.. Dave

**mn808gade** · 07-23-2017, 11:22 PM

when you replaced stator is it in the correct location?? sounds out of time?
-th

**mn808gade** · 07-23-2017, 11:25 PM

indexed one on 2.4 merc incorrectly once.had a heck of a time finding it.-th

**powerabout** · 07-24-2017, 12:47 AM

I havent seen a note from omc that indexed the flywheel magnets when reinstalling them so if thats true the stator can go on anywhere.

**FORBESAUTO** · 07-24-2017, 06:23 AM

Stator does not control timing, only generates voltage. Trigger and hub in flywheel control timing.

**powerabout** · 07-24-2017, 07:16 AM

Originally Posted by FORBESAUTO

Stator does not control timing, only generates voltage. Trigger and hub in flywheel control timing.

when you are splitting hairs there must be a timing issue at high rpm on discharging the capacitor and when you recharge it surely?

**Capt.Insane-o** · 07-24-2017, 07:24 AM

Does that motor have a shift switch on it?

**Krazymaan** · 07-24-2017, 07:33 AM

I can understand how you guys say to back the timer base stop way out then leave it alone for the time being and adjust idle with the thumb screw till its correct and then turn the timer base stop screw back in until it just rarely rests at the timer base arm. now that makes sense. I guarantee you that the manual doesn't say anything like that, its too easy that way.

I also disconnected the two black/yellow wires from the power pack (kill wires). made zero difference. I pulled the white/black from the sensor and grounded it and left it ungrounded (fast start), made zero difference, I pulled the brown wire from the temp sensor and made zero difference (fast start?), I also disconnected the light tan wire from the power pack (s.l.o.w.) to the harness and made zero difference.

One other thing i might have forgotten to mention is that when its running with whatever set of carbs on it. when i try to set the idle with either screw. The timing never moves no matter what i do and the timer base moves freely.

Sounds like to me more and more just bad components.

Racer, The original carbs that were on it had warped bodies and fuel was trickling out the bowl gaskets. Then i ordered new used ones and the guy sent me those 1996 small bore carbs with the allen head midrange screw. I put them on just to see if things will work better while the guy sends me the correct carbs. You said the original carbs are better and these carbs are ok. The 1996 carbs are installed and are the ones in the 4 videos in the beginning. I'm not sure what the difference is but with the original carbs the butterfly is a full circle and seats all the way around the bore. On these 96 carbs which have a smaller bore by at least 1/4". The butterflies are not full round, they have a lot of space around them (notches, reliefs) for air to zing on by even if they are fully shut. Unknowing, I am thinking this is why my idle is now up around 1450 to 1600rpms. Or the idle timing. But the new correct carbs should be here in a few days.

**Krazymaan** · 07-24-2017, 07:33 AM

Originally Posted by Capt.Insane-o

Does that motor have a shift switch on it?

Wires have been cut off right at the switch. not by me

**Krazymaan** · 07-24-2017, 07:42 AM

Do you all think its safe to rule out the flywheel?
Its looks perfect and flawless and there are no loose magnets ( I know they don't affect timing)
I don't exactly know what to look for but i'm pretty sure the hub didn't rotate and i read about the hub cracking and i have no signs of cracks anywhere and in the spots they say to check.
Is there some magnetic trick i can perform. The machined grooves are in the 7 and 2:30 position based off of the flywheel key cut which is correct for my application.
Just don't want to have 2 months invested and find out that wow, it was just a bad flywheel that rotated. I stuck a piece of metal in the hub hole but the magnets don't seem quite as powerful as the mercury magnets.
Maybe i need to make a dividing rod and it will pull towards the magnets. kidding.