More Troubling OMC Looper Video Footage

[perfmarine1]

I can understand how you guys say to back the timer base stop way out then leave it alone for the time being and adjust idle with the thumb screw till its correct and then turn the timer base stop screw back in until it just rarely rests at the timer base arm. now that makes sense. I guarantee you that the manual doesn't say anything like that, its too easy that way.

I also disconnected the two black/yellow wires from the power pack (kill wires). made zero difference. I pulled the white/black from the sensor and grounded it and left it ungrounded (fast start), made zero difference, I pulled the brown wire from the temp sensor and made zero difference (fast start?), I also disconnected the light tan wire from the power pack (s.l.o.w.) to the harness and made zero difference.

One other thing i might have forgotten to mention is that when its running with whatever set of carbs on it. when i try to set the idle with either screw. The timing never moves no matter what i do and the timer base moves freely.

Sounds like to me more and more just bad components.

Racer, The original carbs that were on it had warped bodies and fuel was trickling out the bowl gaskets. Then i ordered new used ones and the guy sent me those 1996 small bore carbs with the allen head midrange screw. I put them on just to see if things will work better while the guy sends me the correct carbs. You said the original carbs are better and these carbs are ok. The 1996 carbs are installed and are the ones in the 4 videos in the beginning. I'm not sure what the difference is but with the original carbs the butterfly is a full circle and seats all the way around the bore. On these 96 carbs which have a smaller bore by at least 1/4". The butterflies are not full round, they have a lot of space around them (notches, reliefs) for air to zing on by even if they are fully shut. Unknowing, I am thinking this is why my idle is now up around 1450 to 1600rpms. Or the idle timing. But the new correct carbs should be here in a few days.

This is your high idle problem, get rid of those throttle bodies! A huge air leak.

[Krazymaan]

This is your high idle problem, get rid of those throttle bodies! A huge air leak.

I don't disagree one bit. Just saying this is factory

[FORBESAUTO]

when you are splitting hairs there must be a timing issue at high rpm on discharging the capacitor and when you recharge it surely?

Havnt really put that much thought in it. I don't think so though since the point of the capacitor is store voltage until it is needed? Plus if that was the case we would need to moving the stator like the trigger depending on rpm?

[baja200merk]

Stick a screwdriver in the carb and push the plates closed see what happens. Could be one if he bottom carbs holding the others open

[powerabout]

Havnt really put that much thought in it. I don't think so though since the point of the capacitor is store voltage until it is needed? Plus if that was the case we would need to moving the stator like the trigger depending on rpm?

i'm just saying there might be a good and less good position for it depending on how fast the capacitor can charge up and discharge, maybe thats outside the fish engine rpm?

[FORBESAUTO]

I'm sure the leading charge has to be ahead of capacitor discharging to a certain degree to fully charge capacitor, but havnt flopped the stator around to see what would happen. So far 8500 rpm hasn't outrun the charging of capacitor. Maybe I'll check it at 9500 and see what happens

[baja200merk]

I dont know if this has been mentioned but check the center hub of flywheel see if it spun and advanced Timing.

[H2OPERF]

The stator is just an a/c sine wave..1/2 of the pack fires 3 times a rev off each stator coil that sees 6 pulses so it really shouldn't matter where they are....I have run 8k on a 10 amp type stator with gold wheel and cut v4 looper wheel, seen 9400 with home made 4 coil... His spark is really erratic regardless of rpm....

[H2OPERF]

I really don't understand why if CDI went thru all the trouble of trying to make a digital HP system why they just didn't make it a 12v total loss and be done, the engine has a 35 amp alternator and the customers are gonna be people like us not fishin botes..Dave

[Krazymaan]

So i am sending my stuff back. not sure if they will check it and send it back to me or just let me return it. i'm hoping for a full return and a refund. We'll see.

Just a quick complicated question. Does it not matter the location of the brown wires? I don't get it.
The new stators have the brown wires at 6 and 7 o'clock position. But yet my old stator they are at 7 and 12 oclock position.
Where as i know it don't matter but the orange wires on the original stator are at the 6 o'clock position and the new stator they are at the 12 o'clock position. This part i know is irrelevant being they are only charging wires. But......
Why in my non electrical brain do i keep thinking that the brown wires need to be in the 7 and 12 position just like the originals. Aren't these locations relevant to the internal magnetics of the timing hub in the center of the flywheel? I keep thinking this is the key to all my issues, but what do i know. LOL

[Krazymaan]

I was also told by CDI today that because #6 is "invisible" and #4 has taken its place on the timing strobe. That there may be a fracture in one of the magnets in the timing hub. Is this true, can it be possible and is thee a way to check before I have to dump more money into a used flywheel for no reason at all.

[powerabout]

I think you could do that with a screwdriver to check if you get 2 sets of N&S on a magnet rather then one?
I'l try that myself

[Krazymaan]

Trying to eliminate everything on this stubborn dilemma. So my flywheel. Just verifying that this is a flywheel for 88. not sure why hp matters. I'd think it only matters if its a V4,6 or 8 myself. I don't know how to translate the number so here they are. I don't know which one to go by either just incase i need a new flywheel.

[Krazymaan]

Can you tell by zooming in if it appears to have any damage. Looks like brand new to me.



Attachment 381793

[H2OPERF]

Should be the 583427 number... the other one is just a base casting number, Wasn't it idling fine prior to all the cdi stuff? I'm guessing their not so ready to help you out...