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07-10-2017, 03:17 AM #1
What is the hardest part of laying fibreglass ??
One really good lesson I learned the first day on the job when we started laying glass was to make doubly sure you wet the surface really well before actually laying any glass !doesn't matter what glass you are laying at any stage make sure the surface you going over it well wet out to the point of resin running if need be !!
So many times I have watched people laying the glass down onto a dry surface then spending lots of time trying to force resin down through the glass it never works properly and all the air bubbles are under and mixed in the fibres !!
Next was the first layer of glass you lay make sure its really wet out properly with lots of resin more than it will ever need !!
When you lay you next layer of either csm of a fabric the wet soggy layer underneath is able to soak up into and wet out the top glass really quickly from both sides , bottom and top !
By using you mohair roller you are able to wet the glass and roll a good amount of any air completely out of the layers and make sure its 100% wet properly so when you start rolling with you finned hard roller to press the glass fibres down and compact them and at the same time roll out any air bubbles !!!
Rolling is a individual thing and lots different ideas on how it should be done !
Roll quickly usually breaks up the bubbles and make them harder to get rid of also pressing to hard and over rolling
With a moderate pressure and rolling slower you can immediately see the difference as the air is pushed out to the edges !!
Long straight even pressure strokes are much better that short quick strokes going in all sorts of directions and leaving humps and lumps of resin and air bubble !! smooth and neat and no humps and lumps is much better !!
Some fabrics are easier to work with than others, 0/90 I find is easier to roll at a slight angle to get the air out quicker, 45/45 I roll straight , triaxle depending which one also roll at a slight angle seems to get the air out of between the layers of glass easier and quicker !
Remember that fabrics need there strands to be continuous and long and perfectly straight from end to end to give there best possible strength and durability from the glass you using !,
Joins with overlaps are potential weak places and also places where you use more material ,the more joins you have thats extra weight that's not really necessary if you plan more carefully !
The surface of the laminate almost needs to have a semi gloss look to it from the resin content !!( remember as resin gels and hardens it shrinks and draws the glass fibres tighter together )!!, reason why is because the compressed rolled layers of fibres will gradually spring back and great patch's of what appears to be air bubbles and dry glass appear later as the resin gels mostly on and around corners etc !! this is caused mostly when fabrics are over edges and the fibres are short so an extra layer of wet csm could help to hold the short strands down and prevent this from happening !!.
The biggest job I can handle by my self without any bother was a 18 foot boat doing all the glassing by myself using buckets and mohair rollers with no help from anyone !! All it takes is careful planning step by step and doing things in the right sequence !! having everything at your finger tips and exactly where it should be when its needed !
Plus product knowledge !!, knowing what the gel time is of the resin you using !, not forgetting temperature, humidity levels throughout the day , it does change from time to time so you make adjustment accordingly !.
I always carry a digital egg timer in my pocket so it reminds me of when the gel time will be due for the last mix I made ! its really easy when you have done the same work over and over hundreds of times ,even working with a team !,so working by myself I just break the job into smaller comfortable bite sized pieces that are more manageable for just one person !!
Instead of cutting the rolls of glass into short lengths is best to simply start from the bow end and unroll the glass part way back !, then wet , lay and roll , then unroll some more and carry on till you get to the back doing exactly the same in manageable sized steps .
Pre-cutting all your glass first is necessary and laying it close to the job in the correct order is absolutely necessary !! then rolling it up one layer at a time and placing it in the correct sequence so you can reach and lay as you go ! Being totally organized it doesn't even involve any thinking about when it comes to actually doing the job !Last edited by tunnels; 07-16-2017 at 06:31 PM.
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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Raysoncrafter thanked for this post
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07-20-2017, 03:09 AM #2
ok I think its time for some more questions and answers time again but this time for simple easy common glassing problems !!
Some of the pictures I have chosen are simple things that i've seen here on some of the re-core and re-glass and stringers etc . A lot of these things happen as the glass is going hard but don't need to happen if you understand the causes and how to avoid it happening !!Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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07-23-2017, 11:33 AM #3Member
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Great reminders. Organization makes a huge difference, no doubt, especially when alone. My challenge has always been getting the mix right for the job and weather conditions. I suppose more familiarity with this stuff and some trial batches would help. Timer instead of watching the clock, too. Thanks.
1972 Raysoncraft 18LP v-drive Chev 454
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07-23-2017, 05:05 PM #4
Working by yourself or working as a team being organised completely that way nothing gets forgotten and the work flows and everyone checks other peoples work . clock watching is not needed if everyone does there job But my egg timer in my pocket is just a reminder! being familiar with the products you using comes with accurate measuring and knowing how long you have to work once the catalyst is poured and mixed its then the clock starts counting down !!
Last edited by tunnels; 07-23-2017 at 05:09 PM.
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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07-23-2017, 06:19 PM #5The Historic Photo Master
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...raysoncrafter, most use a "MeasureMatic" bottle, otherwise known as an M.E.K. bottle, to add the correct amount of mek or other additives to the mix.
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07-23-2017, 06:19 PM #6The Historic Photo Master
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07-23-2017, 08:26 PM #7
There is a bigger and better model with a sliding centre tube that can be pre-set and covering cap over the catalyst receptacle and a poring spout ! the container holds close to a litre of catalyst so for bigger jobs is more convenient . easy to keep clean !!
For small quantities of resins and gel coats a plastic syringe with the scale marked in the outside is easy to dispense more precise with its measuring !
How do you tell who are the are dirty workers when you walk into any fibreglass factory ???? ANY ONE WANT TO GUESS !! Not a trick question !!Last edited by tunnels; 07-24-2017 at 02:49 AM.
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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07-24-2017, 10:25 AM #8
Hardest part of any job i have done? Writing the check to the shop that done the work.
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07-24-2017, 03:55 PM #9Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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07-25-2017, 07:00 PM #10
How do you tell who are the are dirty workers when you walk into any fibreglass factory ????
ANY ONE WANT TO take a GUESS !!
Not a trick question !!Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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07-27-2017, 10:27 PM #11
Standing in a work shop watching people coming and going dirty workers stand out like a sore thumb !! they are the ones that have all the safety gear on !covered from head to toe !!
Yes Fibreglass is a dirty and messy as YOU make it or you want it to be ! yes I wear gloves sometimes hardly ever wear overalls any time and summer just shorts and a tee shirt , I don't intend getting dirty because i taught myself long long time ago TO WORK CLEAN !! , work cleanly all the time , includes having tools that is spotlessly clean so even wearing gloves is not necessary and gear that works properly100% OF the time .
All and everything can get resin and glass on it but its the way you work that's the secret .
As a gun operator I used to be fitted with a styrene monitor clipped on my collar periodically and id wear it for maybe 2 hours while spraying and working then the OSH nurse would take it and see how much styrene I might have been exposed to BECAUSE most times I never wore a mask either !! a couple of times she came back with a blank result !! how can that be ?? its impossible!! So I asked her come and stand by me and watch the way I worked !! always fumes and spray are always going away from me 100% of the time even working inside of a rolled over mould always the spray is going away ! and when there are others working behind me the gun was always pointed away from them as well . !
Something no one ever notices is when you spray anything you are creating a draught of air moving away from you and the gun going with the spray and taking more air with it so all the spray and fumes go with that draught that's created moving away !! I always spray anything at a slight angle towards the left as I am right handed ! if you SPRAY DIRECTLY AT ANYTHING as you cope the lot from all round !!Last edited by tunnels; 07-28-2017 at 01:50 AM.
Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!
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Murph liked this post
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07-28-2017, 12:31 PM #12
Who makes the best Italian Roast Beef Sandwich in the world???
ANY ONE WANT TO take a GUESS !!
Not a trick question !!
Its me of course!! Let me prove my greatness...
It is or should be a well known fact around here that I am Gods gift to Italian Roast Beef Sandwiches. My Italian Roast Beef Sandwiches are an undeniable delicacy that should well be listed as an eighth wonder of my world.
Since it is impossible to for me to deliver my greatness to each of you as proof, I am about to share with you a secret family recipe that you too can enjoy in the comfort of your own homes. Upon partaking of this secret pleasure (assuming you bunch of schmucks are capable of following a simple recipe) you will most certainly return here to regale my greatness for all eternity.
So let us begin, here's what you will need:
4 lbs of Sirloin tip roast cut against the grain (your butcher will understand) in 1/4"- 3/8" slices.
(1) 29oz Tomato sauce (indulge yourself here...really own it)
29oz water
1/4 teaspoon Sage
1 teaspoon Garlic (I use freshly grown from the west facing hills of Sicily, but you peasants can just use whatever you can find that says Garlic on the label).
1 Teaspoon red pepper (man or mouse? Be honest with yourselves)
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon Anese seed (I double most of these spices, but you snowflakes should pace yourselves, we dont want anyone getting the scours)
4 Bay leaves
4 whole green peppers
2 whole onions
Put the water tomato sauce and spices in a 4 quart oven safe pan.
Pre-heat oven to 350 f and cook for 3 hrs.
Add Green peppers and onions for the last hour of cook time.
Let cool a little and serve on your favorite style Hogie roll placing a couple strips of green peppers on each sandwich.
If you can not openly and freely profess this to be the best Italian Roast Beef sandwich you have ever tasted you will be immediately banished to the nether regions of New Zealand, Tahiti, Australia, Japan, Korea, or God forbid, the Suzhou in China(the land of quality boat construction)Last edited by Flightplan; 07-28-2017 at 12:34 PM.
*BLACK MOTORS MATTER*
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07-28-2017, 01:06 PM #131) 1995 14' Bayliner Restoration <--Click
2) Home-Made Tunnel-Boat Project <--Click
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07-28-2017, 01:38 PM #14Screaming And Flying!
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Dammit, now I gotta make some RB sammiches....And they won't be snowflake style...
83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
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07-28-2017, 01:47 PM #15
I see no 12 page resume supporting your expertise. Have you ever participated in the creation of a roast beef sandwich show in a third world country???? Do you have pictures of said sandwiches (photos of smiling people enjoying them would add a great deal of credibility to your claimed skills) Do you have a degree in sandwich aerodynamics? Will your sandwiches cure a porpoise condition in a V-king???? Can you post a link to a totally unrelated subject regarding this discussion as proof? Can you post vague photos of sandwich failures and have us make stupid guesses as to the cause? If I make a sandwich will you tell me it sucks and I did it all wrong?
When you execute the layup process for these sandwiches, do you have a process for insuring a good bond to the substrate? Does the meat ever slide out due to poor adhesion? Will they suffer from print through or bleed out if I eat one during a 110 mph pass in an STV? Even if Davey W is driving?
Or shall we simply accept your word that you're better at sandwich making than us?
Hell, you ain't even from New YorkLiving in the Freedom provided by Bud Conner and his fellow warriors.
R.I.P. my Heathen Brother
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