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  1. #1
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    Cut 3 liter exhaust?

    I'm on the fence about wacking off my tuner and cutting holes in the mid. While I don't expect any extra performance I think I would enjoy the sound. Is it worth it? Am I gonna bust/crack my mid? What the coms should I expect?

    Also does anyone have any pictures of where to knock the holes?
    Last edited by RSWORDS; 06-21-2017 at 03:51 PM.

  2. #2
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    I believe the 20" mid you have is relieved. Look under the cavitation plate. You have to cut the bottom off the tuner and beside more noise you will lose exhaust if you need it to vent your thru hub prop. An over the hub prop such as a pro et wont care. JMO

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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    I believe the 20" mid you have is relieved. Look under the cavitation plate. You have to cut the bottom off the tuner and beside more noise you will lose exhaust if you need it to vent your thru hub prop. An over the hub prop such as a pro et wont care. JMO
    Yeah looking at it now I believe it is.... Just sitting here looking at it and cut off wheel with a beer in my hand.... Trying to decide lol

  4. #4
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    I have one with about 5 inch cut off the bottom and 1 hole on both side at the top ....for littler to nothing ...hit me up in a PM ......came out of my 300X mid -section .

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    I believe the 20" mid you have is relieved. Look under the cavitation plate. You have to cut the bottom off the tuner and beside more noise you will lose exhaust if you need it to vent your thru hub prop. An over the hub prop such as a pro et wont care. JMO
    So, would you cut it if it was yours?

  6. #6
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    I would cut the tuner off at the first parting line up from the bottom which I have done already in my X

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    I would cut the tuner off at the first parting line up from the bottom which I have done already in my X
    Sounds like it's time to piss off the neighbors.

  8. #8
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    They sound good with tuner cut, as mentioned the mid is already relieved a lot. They will talk to ya once you cut the tuner. If ya get a Simon poppet diverter kit, the instructions where to cut come with it.

  9. #9
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    Just cut it where I told you. Thats the spot Simon shows on his site>

  10. #10
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    At the parting line leaves enough tube to get the water below the exhaust outlet by the time you make the final cut ...



    Bad core shift , humps bumps and ridges gotta go ... And even after that , the exit is still smaller in area than the entrance ...
    That can be fixed too ...



    My pet peeve is the "shelf" hanging out in the air in the area that see's the most volume and highest velocity ....



    While your at it , you might as well clean up the adapter plate too ...
    PS ... If ya really want ta bizz the neighbors off ... build a speaker for the idle relief port ...


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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chaz View Post
    At the parting line leaves enough tube to get the water below the exhaust outlet by the time you make the final cut ...



    Bad core shift , humps bumps and ridges gotta go ... And even after that , the exit is still smaller in area than the entrance ...
    That can be fixed too ...



    My pet peeve is the "shelf" hanging out in the air in the area that see's the most volume and highest velocity ....



    While your at it , you might as well clean up the adapter plate too ...
    PS ... If ya really want ta bizz the neighbors off ... build a speaker for the idle relief port ...

    That looks.like a good amount of work! will doing all that gain me any improvement over just cutting at the cast line? If so I'm in!

    Will I need to re jet the carb or will the fact that these things are stupid rich to start with be ok?

  13. #12
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    Hey Charlie your on a whole nother plane. See you in a couple weeks my friend Be ready for a boat ride and some time at the sand bar.

  14. #13
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    Just buy the hydrotec tuner, it's not horribly expensive and does make a difference. As far as the mid, the bottom of the mid can be drilled, easy way to do it is use long drill bits and drill from the inside down, just like on the 2.5 bass mids. Harbor freight sells long drill bits, 5/8" diameter
    action mobile marine, 772 528 0754, dealers for aces fuel products,wolf efi, pro marine,latham and gaffrig/livorsi. we build gearcases and modify them(3 litre) to ratchet, and powerheads as well. 21 skater/3 litre wolf efi 113 mph the engine build http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-3-litre-build

  15. #14
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    The bass mid he bought from me is already relieved. He does not need to drill it.

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSWORDS View Post
    That looks.like a good amount of work! will doing all that gain me any improvement over just cutting at the cast line? If so I'm in!

    Will I need to re jet the carb or will the fact that these things are stupid rich to start with be ok?
    Anything worth having takes a little time and effort . These things are just air pumps , the easier it is to pump air , the more power it will make ..

    Carb's are a whole nother 50 pages worth .. but the short of it is that they are self compensating . More air thru them the stronger the signal to the booster or emulsion tube , the more fuel it will pass .
    But to answer your question , as you know , yes they are pretty fat from the factory ..

    vnemous
    Hey Charlie your on a whole nother plane. See you in a couple weeks my friend Be ready for a boat ride and some time at the sand bar.


    As luck would have it ... I might even have a "free lunch" card or two

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