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  1. #16
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    Totally, nipples up
    Leave loops and rotate boat 360* in air to chase air to upward pointing nipples.

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  3. #17
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    If you had used copper lines under the deck instead of hoses, you would not have to deal with excess hose and copper does not expand like hoses. JMO
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  4. #18
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    Copper, I would think steel such as "brake line type" would be a safer choice?

    Quote Originally Posted by flabum1017 View Post
    If you had used copper lines under the deck instead of hoses, you would not have to deal with excess hose and copper does not expand like hoses. JMO
    Checkmate 2002 Convincor 270 496 MAG-HO

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    2006 Trailblazer SS 6.0l 395hp

  5. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euroski View Post
    Copper, I would think steel such as "brake line type" would be a safer choice?

    Copper pipe is good for 1500+ psi.... not the soft stuff tho.....https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...3517062&ipos=9
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

  6. #20
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    Stainless tubing would be best. I installed copper lines on yachts using the hynautics system. The problem was the copper would corrode and need to be replaced eventually. I also built and rigged lots of o/b boats with mainly the seastar system. Filling the hoses before install and you could have all the loops and dips you want. Fill the helm and cyl., elevate the cyl. some, open the bleeders, hang the bottle high and it would be bled in 60 secs. Eliminate the air from the start. We bled the steering without a motor connected to get full travel, lock to lock.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  8. #21
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    Not sure if you solved this issue but we had a similar problem last night on my seastar system...completely bled and still had a little wiggle. We noticed that on the horizontal mounting rod that runs all the way from port to starboard has a little bushing that is tightened down with a allen key. There was a 1/4 inch gap between the mounting piece and that bushing even with the nut tightened all the way down. We simply took that mounting piece off and added a couple of washers next to the bushing replaced the mounting bracket and the wiggle was gone.

  9. #22
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    Sounds like you are missing a plastic spacer from the port side of the tube. Tightening that nut and allen is normal. Should not need any washers though. Look at the instructions again. Might not be turning the same amount on left vs right.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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  11. #23
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    That's very well possible, I'll have to double check my pile of misc parts from when we tore down the boat

  12. #24
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    They have install inst. online for all motors and systems...For most v-6 mercs it uses two 1/4'' plastic spacers on the port side and just a thin 1/8'' spacer on the star side.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  13. #25
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    When mine starts to get some slop (very very little in my seastar) I was shown to turn the wheel lock to lock and then give a small tug against the lock with the wheel all the way to the right and crack the fill in the helm. I hear a tiny amount of air. Tighten and then turn all the way the opposite direction and pull the wheel slightly against the lock and open the fill again in the helm, tiny amount of air again. Then the ram is tight again for a few times out. I am guessing I need a bleed and fluid change. Not sure when Riverman put this all together but I am assuming it was close to 10 years ago if not more and has had no issues that I know of. Hydraulic is a very good setup. Cant wait to hear how this tunnel runs!
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  14. #26
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    Hello,
    Do you guys have hydr.steering like that when you are going on sidewind you have to continously turn to the wind and change grip on the wheel because it keeps turning and turning or does it stop when you have right angle to go straigth forward?
    I got tired of that feature and changed my Argos steering to Uflex T73 nfb. its got little play on the cabel but now i can trust that steering because wheel is always in a same spot when centered.

    Jani

  15. #27
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    Hup, you had air in the system or possibly a bad helm valve or worn cylinder. When it is working correctly, hyd steering is as tight as a dual cable system. Nothing wrong with a cable steering system though.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

  16. #28
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    if you have hydraulic then no chance of moving the engine if its all bled correctly.
    I have no chance at all of moving mine at the engine end, no matter how hard I push it dont move.
    yet at the helm its so nice and easy.
    I can set engine when going along and it stays where its put,
    I have seen a few with movement and helped them bleed the system and then no movement at all.
    often people are not bleeding the system correctly with like said back a bit, bleed nipple's lower than some of the pipes etc.

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  18. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hupiveneilijä View Post
    Hello,
    Do you guys have hydr.steering like that when you are going on sidewind you have to continously turn to the wind and change grip on the wheel because it keeps turning and turning or does it stop when you have right angle to go straigth forward?
    I got tired of that feature and changed my Argos steering to Uflex T73 nfb. its got little play on the cabel but now i can trust that steering because wheel is always in a same spot when centered.

    Jani
    no, that would be an issue to look into
    1973 Viper - sold
    1978 Viking - sold
    1995 XB02

  19. #30
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    Hydraulic steering seals in the ram are a very easy fix, to have a system that keeps needing to be centred sounds like main centre seals in the ram.
    could be the steering still has a bit of air, but I would sooner think a main seal is letting the oil pass instead stopping it.

    if you ever get the slightest problem with hydraulic steering it needs to be put right straight away, there is no , "oh ill wait and get it done soon".
    and never ever buy the cheap Chinese stuff, it is so dangerous due to terrible seals that are not fit for hydraulics.

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