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  1. #1
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    Mercury 200 XRI random Overheating Alarm???

    I've gained a lot of knowledge on this site and taken care of more than a few problems over the years (by searching). Thanks to ALL always!

    A couple years ago I picked up a 1992 Mercury 200 XRI on a semi-rare 20' Concord Open bow and it's the closest to a performance boat I've gotten to (so far!). It's been a real blast and still works well for the family. Just installed hydraulic steering and now it's even better!

    All this being said, I'm a little stumped on this a problem and not finding an exact match to the problem at hand (lot of close info though). The problem is last year I started getting miscellaneous continuous alarming. Before I learned better here that this continuous alarm is not oil (because it's continuous), I feared the oil injection from day one and even with all of the controversy I did the oil injection delete (again, through this site) and am pre-mixing. I'm not sure I disconnected the entire oil alarm (part of my confusion) as it seemed tied into the temp alarm as well (?).

    I've got a water pressure gauge that shows ~12-14psi when running on plane (2-4 at idle). Looks like good flow from the telltale. Engine runs great for an hour or two or sometimes all day and then the continuous alarm goes off. Every time it goes off I shut it down immediately, wait 10-15 seconds, and the alarm is cleared, starts right up and runs great again... until the alarm come on again which seems to happen more often after it starts doing this (maybe every 10 minutes or so then). After shut down, if I don't wait 10-20 seconds and try it after 2-5 seconds sometimes the alarm isn't "cleared" yet and I wait a little longer (10-15 secs) and we're all good and on our way again. The fact that it's "clearing" with no more alarm after such a short time seems like it's not really overheating (?). I checked the temp of the heads (by hand) once last year and recall it wasn't screaming hot to the touch (but it was pretty hot).

    So I'm stumped what can cause this and how to test or move forward based on the intermittent activity. Previous owners of the engine have done "stuff" like changed the water separating filter to a normal inline filter (who knows why) among other things... I never got the "test beep" when turning the key which also tells me something isn't right there (?).

    I was going to pull a sensor and test it but there's no disconnect so didn't do it. Looks to be the single brown wire temp sender style fed right into "a terminal block" on the starboard side of the engine.

    So, bad sensor(s), ground issue, faulty alarm module, actually overheating? Can anyone prescribe some further testing to troubleshoot this or are these symptoms obvious to any specifc problem?


    Secondary Question: Seems like there's a consensus that temp gauges are no good but I'd sure like to have one in conjunction with the pressure. I see open ended blue and brown wires in the harness by the gauge cluster and also wondering if I could simply add a gauge with these wires? I think they may have disconnected one in favor of the pressure and a jack plate gauge which was gone and removed when I got it which is where I'd put it back in (to the non needed jack plate gauge)

    Thanks in advance for any insight and advice!
    Last edited by Hess; 06-12-2017 at 05:45 PM.

  2. #2
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    I would install a good water temperature gauge and go out for a test run ,when the alarm goes off I would see what the engine temperature is.

  3. #3
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    with oil injection deleat ,theres no reason to have alarm module.remove temp sensors in both heads and test them as per merc service manual.-th

  4. #4
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    only thing oilier alarm and over heat alarm have in common is tha use of same buzzer... other than that, nothing'...... tha oilier module's only function is to make any alert input signal oscillate and give ya tha self check beeps... module gone and/or disconnected, no beeps..

    random/unknown over heat alarm.. put an oem water pump "kit" in it no mater what pressure, volume of pee stream, removed pump parts look like ... quit runnin' it till ya find and fix it!........... jmo

    blue wire is gauge lightin', brown is trim sender........
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 06-17-2017 at 07:23 AM.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the input guys. Cleared up the relationship between the oiler alarms / that there is no relationship and why there's no test beep especially any more. Still seems weird that if it's getting hot that it would cool down so quickly and consistently. But maybe I'm running the edge. Will have to change the pump as suggested and see what happens. Also thinking I should change the t-stats as well. And maybe the poppet? Just learned about poppets , not even sure this motor has one (?).

    Anyone know what color wires the temp gate would have? I'm gonna look at the harness again because I know there's open wires there but I have a working trim gage and lighting.

    Happy Father's Day to all!

  6. #6
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    over temp should be tan/blue from sensor on starboard head.. goes to a plastic term block above tha solenoid along with same color in motor side (female) of harness.. exposed wires on boat side (male) of harness plug should be,

    brown... trim gauge
    tan.... temp gauge
    blue... up trim
    green.. down trim

    stats, poppet not that expensive and never hurts ta change "jus because".......

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  8. #7
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    Update: I put in a new water pump and just did 2 full days of July 4th and 5th pulling skiers, tubes, boards, cruising and speed runs with no more alarms! Love it when a repair provides the desired results!

    Also got to look at wires behind the gauges. I have an open tan and a tan/blue that's open ended. I do see the tan/blue goes to (or through?) the buzzer also. Either way, I'm guessing I should be able to easily install a temp gauge to the tan?

    I also have 2 open purples with male terminations as well as a black/yellow that also is terminated with a fitting and a plugged end. I'd like to figure out what those are if anyone could let me know.

    Thanks for all the help as always.

    -Hess

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  10. #8
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    Temperature gauge is as important to me as my water pressure gauge. there are expensive ones but my auto meter one works great but does read high. i have a lazer I randomly check head temps and co respond to gauge temps. For instance when my Gage says 160 the hottest cylinder on my heads is accually 150. So anything above 170 on my gage i go for a rip to bring the temps down. But all still respectable temps. i watch it like a hawk. its a good idea to monitor these things I feel. Impellers should be changed at least every season. The housing under the impeller should also be pulled and looked at also theirs a rubber seal and gasket under there lots forget about and the o ring and gasket are all in the rebuild kit you can buy...

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hess View Post
    Update: I put in a new water pump and just did 2 full days of July 4th and 5th pulling skiers, tubes, boards, cruising and speed runs with no more alarms! Love it when a repair provides the desired results!

    Also got to look at wires behind the gauges. I have an open tan and a tan/blue that's open ended. I do see the tan/blue goes to (or through?) the buzzer also. Either way, I'm guessing I should be able to easily install a temp gauge to the tan?

    I also have 2 open purples with male terminations as well as a black/yellow that also is terminated with a fitting and a plugged end. I'd like to figure out what those are if anyone could let me know.

    Thanks for all the help as always.

    -Hess
    tan will go ta temp gauge...
    purples are a switched hot (key on)
    blk/yel is "kill circuit".. under tha dash, have no idea why its exposed? if its at tha motor it probably went to "mercury switch" that got removed....

    tape or shrink tube any unused exposed ends..........
    Last edited by tlwjkw; 07-06-2017 at 07:40 AM.

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