1987 Valero YT Bowrider...need advice

**mran** · 06-08-2017, 01:19 PM

Ok, so I purchased this boat anticipating some work and possible re-core. Wife flipped out and...well....im on the fence

Anyway, I decided to start digging in a little to see what is going on.....I removed the carpet and section of the rotted floor to a solid ski locker.....cut out a piece of the ski locker and noticed the core below it is actually in good shape...almost too good....BUT its sitting 1/2 off the pad....The Hull has cracks on the pad which led me to believe the core as rotten but it looks like it was replaced but delaminated.....Take a look at the pics...thoughts?

**mran** · 06-08-2017, 01:23 PM

ok...let me try to explain the pics.....first pic is the ski locker exposed showing where I took the sample. second pic is the core material that is floating on top of the pad.

I really want to rip into this thing but am not sure about the time to dedicate to it...I was thinking about taking a week off and just banging it out but honestly....I am not sure if I can get it done....The transom is Rock Solid with no cracks which is rare to begin with.....HELP!

**XstreamVking** · 06-08-2017, 02:03 PM

Sure that first pic is not showing a sub floor? Is that really the hull? Hard to tell from pics.....The wood pcs I see are plywood, not balsa...

**mran** · 06-08-2017, 02:22 PM

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

Sure that first pic is not showing a sub floor? Is that really the hull? Hard to tell from pics.....The wood pcs I see are plywood, not balsa...

yup...that's the pad....there is some plywood debris from me tearing out the floor but look at pic 2.....on the left is the cut ski locker and then the darker fiberglass is what I assumed to be layed over the core.....then below that is the interior of the hull( Pad)

**XstreamVking** · 06-08-2017, 02:26 PM

If that's the case, core 1/2'' off the pad, then you will have to pull it and re-core.

**mran** · 06-08-2017, 02:40 PM

I just never expected to see what I thought was supposed to be Balsa look that way.....the floor was all rotted so there is no way it was replaced.....

Anyway, I have to decide whether or not I am jumping into this with both feet.....

**XstreamVking** · 06-08-2017, 02:58 PM

Maybe someone with valero YT experience will chime in. I am no expert on this model of Stream. I have seen a rebuild on one here. Maybe try the archives...

**tunnels** · 06-08-2017, 04:34 PM

Originally Posted by mran

Ok, so I purchased this boat anticipating some work and possible re-core. Wife flipped out and...well....im on the fence

Anyway, I decided to start digging in a little to see what is going on.....I removed the carpet and section of the rotted floor to a solid ski locker.....cut out a piece of the ski locker and noticed the core below it is actually in good shape...almost too good....BUT its sitting 1/2 off the pad....The Hull has cracks on the pad which led me to believe the core as rotten but it looks like it was replaced but delaminated.....Take a look at the pics...thoughts?

Simple tear the lot out and start again get back to the bare glass scuff it 100% and lay a new layer of glass, then core over the top and glass over that and make a new floor and AND DONT USE WOVEN ROVING ANY WHERE ITS RUBBISH STUFF!! XstreamVking WILL LOVE THIS I suggest you use Epoxy for the whole job . JUST DO IT !!

**XstreamVking** · 06-08-2017, 06:00 PM

I actually prefer the vinylester resins for my own projects. But for many beginners and even some old timers, epoxy resin is a better choice with the extended cure times and easier mixing that is basically foolproof. Even with less than perfect application, the epoxy's xtreme adhesion will make up for it. Seals wood better also, beds core better, list goes on and on. And biaxial glass is all that is required for these boats, don't need tri and quadaxial glass.

**tunnels** · 06-08-2017, 06:52 PM

Originally Posted by XstreamVking

I actually prefer the vinylester resins for my own projects. But for many beginners and even some old timers, epoxy resin is a better choice with the extended cure times and easier mixing that is basically foolproof. Even with less than perfect application, the epoxy's xtreme adhesion will make up for it. Seals wood better also, beds core better, list goes on and on. And biaxial glass is all that is required for these boats, don't need tri and quadaxial glass.

My choice for the first layer under the core would be 1708 then cores and finish with a 1708 over the top ! use resin generously for the final lay up as it needs to be a sealer coat and don't want any patch's of bubbles or dry glass any where at all !!

For these smaller boats for everyday use Triaxle is an excellent choice glass depending where and how its to be used as there is more than one type ! there is no where any where you'd want of need to use Quad even without a core !THERES more than one quad don't forget
The oriantation of the glass fibres is what very very important with all and any fabrics

**dwilfong** · 06-08-2017, 07:42 PM

You have your hands full.........If you think it will get done in a week don't start doing it................LOL
Don't put a time line on it just do it..........If you are not committed to doing it don't start..........
DB1700 , Epoxy and Cabosil are your friend.................................Core of choice balsa or foam dose not mater either way. What ever you can get your hands on. Foam will not rot if you plan on making it part of the family. If not balsa will do.

**mran** · 06-09-2017, 06:53 AM

I think I am going to do it.....is there a list of supplies needed anywhere?

For the Core...I have access to this product..."Honeycomb Core and Plascore Board"....its more expensive but very light and not water absorbant....thoughts on thickness?

These boats used the hollow fiberglass frame of the ski locker as the stringers...What is the suggested material for the Stringers? Marine Ply? Oak?
Should I knee brace the stringers onto the transom for more support.....I have a stock Merc 175 that will be directly mounted to the transom. No Jack Plate....
Finally, should I core then place the stringers in or place the stringer on top of the core.....not sure.

Thank you for the input.....I will document and take pics along the way.....

**tunnels** · 06-09-2017, 07:12 AM

Originally Posted by mran

I think I am going to do it.....is there a list of supplies needed anywhere? For the Core...I have access to this product..."Honeycomb Core and Plascore Board"....its more expensive but very light and not water absorbant....thoughts on thickness?These boats used the hollow fiberglass frame of the ski locker as the stringers...What is the suggested material for the Stringers? Marine Ply? Oak? Should I knee brace the stringers onto the transom for more support.....I have a stock Merc 175 that will be directly mounted to the transom. No Jack Plate.... Finally, should I core then place the stringers in or place the stringer on top of the core.....not sure. Thank you for the input.....I will document and take pics along the way.....

Always on top of the core, on top of the glass over the core !

**mran** · 06-09-2017, 07:50 AM

Originally Posted by dwilfong

You have your hands full.........If you think it will get done in a week don't start doing it................LOL
Don't put a time line on it just do it..........If you are not committed to doing it don't start..........
DB1700 , Epoxy and Cabosil are your friend.................................Core of choice balsa or foam dose not mater either way. What ever you can get your hands on. Foam will not rot if you plan on making it part of the family. If not balsa will do.

What thickness should the core be??

**dwilfong** · 06-09-2017, 11:45 AM

Originally Posted by mran

What thickness should the core be??

I used Coosa board for my stringer. laminated two 1/2" pieces with some DB1700 in-between. Made them up then set them in place.
I used Divinycell 1/2" H60 foam for my core as that is what was available locally.