OMC tech: No power, another rookie without a clue!

**flabum1017** · 05-24-2017, 05:58 PM

Originally Posted by 93hydrasport

Of course right after I posted I had a brain fart! Tomorrow while warming it up, should I just go ahead and get a small gas can and run a seafoam decarb through it? It's been sitting, couldn't hurt? Maybe a gummed up ring or two?

mmmmmmmmmm seafoam...... (As Homer would say)

**FMP** · 05-24-2017, 06:33 PM

Seafoam goes without saying, can't hurt. Sorry about the bendix, I would have done the same, just remembered seeing that happen once.

**93hydrasport** · 05-24-2017, 06:46 PM

Originally Posted by FMP

Seafoam goes without saying, can't hurt. Sorry about the bendix, I would have done the same, just remembered seeing that happen once.

No worries! I definitely appreciate the input! If it wasn't for people like yourself and others that have replied to my posts I'd be spending much needed gas and oil money at the local "so called experts" shop! Everything I try is just another learning experience I accredited to this forum and the great bunch of guys that keep it going.
I just hope no one calls the fire department tomorrow when I smoke out the neighborhood! And if all else fails and the decarb and compression checks don't improve, I know where to get the assistance on my first re-ring attempt!

**FMP** · 05-24-2017, 07:34 PM

Ha, doubt you'll need rings. Last time I forgot to WOT I lost 30 - 40 psi if I remember correctly. Get it hot , spray it till she barfs , let her fester overnight. Morning smoke show!

**flabum1017** · 05-24-2017, 09:58 PM

Originally Posted by 93hydrasport

No worries! I definitely appreciate the input! If it wasn't for people like yourself and others that have replied to my posts I'd be spending much needed gas and oil money at the local "so called experts" shop! Everything I try is just another learning experience I accredited to this forum and the great bunch of guys that keep it going.
I just hope no one calls the fire department tomorrow when I smoke out the neighborhood! And if all else fails and the decarb and compression checks don't improve, I know where to get the assistance on my first re-ring attempt!

Compression numbers are actually very good. Seafoam is always a good idea regardless. If you were down on compression by more than 10 psi between the highest and lowest, then I would worry. It could have been just the bad wires and plugs.......

**pbxcomm** · 05-25-2017, 11:38 AM

So my two cents:
With the compression issue, true the cyl's are within 5 LBS and that is good,,,, if the compression was up, say around 125 to 130. If in fact the powerhead is fairly new, I would expect much higher compression than what you post. This leads me to believe that you may have a lean condition that my be affecting the entire motor. Have you run the motor and checked for air leaks (carb cleaner spray) around the crankcase or top seal? With proper break in you should see 125 to 130 on these motors, this compression is where they (loopers) like to run best. I have seen motors with low compression that also fail a leak down test. In these cases the motor runs terribly if at all, at all throttle positions.

**pbxcomm** · 05-25-2017, 11:48 AM

Thought of something else on these motors, specifically the flywheel, or under the flywheel.. The Flywheel Trigger Magnet is prone to move or spin from its original location. This is because the "glue" (that's right, glue) becomes soft in time. The magnet becomes loose and spins around the flywheel collar. This will throw the timing off significantly. What you might want to do next is to check the idle timing, I think it should around 0 to 2 degrees ATDC AND STEADY. If you have another helper, you should check it @ WOT as well.

**racer** · 05-25-2017, 05:48 PM

Compression gauges very with quality of gauge thus readings will be different. Cranking rpm will also change readings, since yours are close to each other that should be fine. If it were a high hour engine might be different but does not sound like it has enough time to have worn all cylinders. As mentioned use the insulated pliers to see if one cylinder is not running. Verify timing and make sure outer magnets in flywheel have not come loose.

**93hydrasport** · 05-25-2017, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by pbxcomm

Thought of something else on these motors, specifically the flywheel, or under the flywheel.. The Flywheel Trigger Magnet is prone to move or spin from its original location. This is because the "glue" (that's right, glue) becomes soft in time. The magnet becomes loose and spins around the flywheel collar. This will throw the timing off significantly. What you might want to do next is to check the idle timing, I think it should around 0 to 2 degrees ATDC AND STEADY. If you have another helper, you should check it @ WOT as well.

I had to work this morning, but had some time to go get a timing light after... it's waaaay off! I pulled the flywheel, inspected the magnets, looked at the stator. Magnets look good, all tight and evenly spaced. Stator looks almost brand new! I did take it off and look at both sides, no ooze or anything out of the ordinary. Would the trigger itself cause the timing to be off the scale? On the breather box it calls for 18 deg BTC. I couldn't even see the scale at the timing mark! havent checked trigger prices yet... but assume it's probably something I will need to get.

**flabum1017** · 05-25-2017, 06:04 PM

18 degrees is for wide open throttle. At idle you will see a few degrees of timing.

**93hydrasport** · 05-25-2017, 06:10 PM

Almost forgot, I double oiled for two tanks. 50 gallon tank, followed instigators instructions to alternate throttle, not wind it up until after the first tank was used and then only for short bursts. I didn't get it actually full throttle until a few weeks after I put the power head on. Im not confident my compression numbers are 100% accurate. Had planned to do the decarb this morning but wasn't able to, and after seeing that timing think I need to worry more about what caused that. Don't want to be the guy to just throw money at it buying parts! But what else would cause the timing to go crazy like that? Could my "testing" and running it with 1 bad electrical component cause others to systematically fail?

if I could come across a deal like I did from instigator, he had full electronic sets for loopers back then that included everything that could be plugged in and bolted on! I could just go all "newish" and cut my losses!

**FMP** · 05-25-2017, 06:37 PM

Calling Instigator

**pbxcomm** · 05-25-2017, 07:45 PM

Ok.. How did you inspect the magnet? To do this you need to grab the magnet tightly and attempt to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise. It may not turn, however it may feel loose which is all it takes to throw the timing way off. BUT FIRST! Mark the magnet with white paint like timing marks 180 degrees out from each mark. This is in case the magnet turns and you need to glue it back in to its original position. The special glue is still available through OMC.
There is a write-up if you search timing by "Reeves". He explains how to set the maximum timing at cranking.

**93hydrasport** · 05-25-2017, 08:18 PM

Originally Posted by pbxcomm

Ok.. How did you inspect the magnet? To do this you need to grab the magnet tightly and attempt to turn it clockwise or counterclockwise. It may not turn, however it may feel loose which is all it takes to throw the timing way off. BUT FIRST! Mark the magnet with white paint like timing marks 180 degrees out from each mark. This is in case the magnet turns and you need to glue it back in to its original position. The special glue is still available through OMC.
There is a write-up if you search timing by "Reeves". He explains how to set the maximum timing at cranking.

Thanks! I will be sure to read it!
as far as how I inspected the magnets, I tried to "wiggle them" lol I didn't apply to much force, but held them firmly and tried to detect any movement. I honestly dont know if I tried to twist them? But now that the flywheel has been broken loose Im sure it will pop off a lot easier the second time, I will check it with clockwise twisting tomorrow. Is that the only thing that would cause it to be so far out of time? its been a while, but i know it was at least close to correctly timed before. I had good acceleration across the board, has always fired right up, never backfired or blew back. i manually moved the trigger to pull the timing mark close to where it should be, it slowed the idle a lot and sounded pretty weak. I am going to spend some time reading the mentioned articles and see what I am doing wrong.

**93hydrasport** · 05-25-2017, 08:26 PM

Originally Posted by racer

Compression gauges very with quality of gauge thus readings will be different. Cranking rpm will also change readings, since yours are close to each other that should be fine. If it were a high hour engine might be different but does not sound like it has enough time to have worn all cylinders. As mentioned use the insulated pliers to see if one cylinder is not running. Verify timing and make sure outer magnets in flywheel have not come loose.

I havent picked up the pliers yet, Will have to do that on the way home tomorrow! I did verify spark with a gap tester and had spark on all six jumping 1/2"+, I will also give the flywheel a better inspection to insure the magnets are all tight. Im just at a loss how it went from running great when I parked it to where it is now. like they say "use it or lose it" never thought it would apply to boats! lol