Transom repair questions

[ultra912]

Noticed some coffee colored water dripping out of the drain plug hole the last couple of times I was out in the boat. After pulling the plug there was what seemed to be more water than usual but the colored water was dripping out slowly more than an hour later. Last weekend I noticed cracking on both sides of the splash well so I'm sure its safe to say my transom has been polluted and rotting. I had new floor a stringers done about five years ago but hadn't had her out on the water since. My new motor I'm sure exacerbated the issue due to being heavier with more HP. I can see the inside exterior of the transom was reinforced when the floor and stringers were done. Looks like there has been water leaking in through my outboard engine bracket bolts. I have put a lot into this boat which I have had since 91 so I'm gonna get it repaired. Any ideas as to what that type of repair will cost. I know it depends on the extent of the rotting but a ball park would help. I'm going to Desert Storm this weekend and I'll be taking it to a couple of shops for estimates and want not to be shocked too much. Who should I take it to in LHC.

[outasite]

$2000+ done right.

[XstreamVking]

Better add 1 k since it's in cali.....jm 2cts

[outasite]

Did not notice that! You are correct $1000 or more

[tunnels]

Did not notice that! You are correct $1000 or more

The joys of adding bigger motors and more hp onto boats that were never designed for what you have done ! transoms were never built for what you are expecting from them !! most are just 2 inchs thick with the bigger motors and double the hp they need to be 3 inch's minimum !.Personally im 100% in favour of 100% solid glass transom and a complete redesign of the shape !!Introduce shape and reduce the solid transoms actual size and its better ,more functional ,and maybe 1/2 the weight of the old slab transom of years gone by ,

[ultra912]

This hole was actually delivered with a 2.4 175 black max so the horse power isn't grossly different but I do believe there is a difference in weight. The transom upon visual has been getting rotted for many years so the horse power and motor may have aggravated it but the hull wasn't designed for a just a small motor

[XstreamVking]

If the trans is built right, you can put any motor you want on it with out problems. Age and water intrusion over time will get the best of any wood reinforced boat.

[ultra912]

If the trans is built right, you can put any motor you want on it with out problems. Age and water intrusion over time will get the best of any wood reinforced boat.

Not sure what the weight difference is but it can't be much. I did add a bracket with a 4" setback but that was 20 years ago. When I removed the aluminum that covered the seam where the top is attached to the bottom it had some type of caulking and that was deteriorated enough that water was going down the transom when a swell of water would enter the splash bin. First photo shows aluminum and the second one shows the hidden bead.

[XstreamVking]

That was the typical building method used a long time ago. Worked for a long time. Some still use it. They never envisioned back then that someone would keep a boat for 20+ years. When you re-build it, make sure that the whole rear hull/deck area is glassed together and that no open seam is left like that one.

[ultra912]

I was gonna do that but you would think no one would re-do it the same. I have photos of the entire floor and stringers replacement and I'll bring those with me also. Once the work commences I'll also make sure they take a lot of photos for documentation.

[XstreamVking]

Sounds like a plan. Especially the documentation of the repairs. If you use wood, you could make the area where the motor/jackplate bolts thru, solid glass. So no rot would occur again. Same with the drain plug area, lifting eyes etc. Even when using the synthetic core board material this is a good idea for resistance to compression from the fasteners.

[ultra912]

Ultra found the floor delaminted on the perimeter sides. New floor and stringers in 09 but just put the boat into the water for the first time last Aug. 8 years,,,I'm screwed for a warranty. It's gonna get done correctly along with the transom this time. It'll be a new boat and stronger than it ever was. the prep work was sub-par.. :-(
I'll post photos as I get them

[tunnels]

Sounds like a plan. Especially the documentation of the repairs. If you use wood, you could make the area where the motor/jackplate bolts thru, solid glass. So no rot would occur again. Same with the drain plug area, lifting eyes etc. Even when using the synthetic core board material this is a good idea for resistance to compression from the fasteners.

WOW I cant believe what im reading Solid glass !! that's a very very sound bit of advice !!.
WILL NEVER HAVE TO EVER TOUCH IT AGAIN FOR THE LIFE OF THE BOAT !! WAY TO GO !!

[ultra912]

All rebuilt. New floor, stringers, transom braces connected to the new stringers, transom fiberglass and gel coat. Was not cheap though and done by Ultra Custom Boats, Lake Havasu City. I also have an Ultra so I went to the builder and asked if they were interested in doing the work. He couldn't believe that they, Charger, built the boat with a transom that weak for a 2.4 175 BlackMax. Transom was done with solid fiberglass. The wood and fiberglass was the floor and behind the Transom.



















I also had my custom motor bracket powder coated since the red anodize was bleached to hell
Here's my Ultra

[W2F a V-King]

Nice !! Got to feel good about it all now!

Gorgeous boat !! Now to get it wet....