1997 225 looper new piston, lean or hot?

**cdoliver** · 04-23-2017, 07:32 AM

If anyone can tell me the difference between those two sleeves, I'd appreciate that. I'm about to check the reeds, but If that sleeve won't work, I'm going to take it back to the rebuilder and have them replace the sleeve... what a pain...

**powerabout** · 04-23-2017, 07:48 AM

I just looked at the photo of the sleeves and noticed they are for v6 and v8
That says it all
I dont think there has ever been a sleeve thats the same for v6 and v8?
Only chance was 2.7 v6 and 3.6 v8

**cdoliver** · 04-23-2017, 07:51 AM

Originally Posted by powerabout

I just looked at the photo of the sleeves and noticed they are for v6 and v8
That says it all
I dont think there has ever been a sleeve thats the same for v6 and v8?
Only chance was 2.7 v6 and 3.6 v8

I used that pic because it shows the bridge at the bottom of the port(on bottom) The original sleeves in my block don't have that bridge(as shown on the other pic)

**cdoliver** · 04-23-2017, 08:04 AM

Attachment 373320

**FORBESAUTO** · 04-23-2017, 08:18 AM

Not familiar with omc. If it has a flat floor and the bridge isn't blocking or restricting flow shouldn't be a problem as long as the heights of the openings are the same and port timing is the same as the rest. Looks like it may just be there for extra support, but again not sure because not familiar with omc.

**powerabout** · 04-23-2017, 09:01 AM

what brand sleeve did they put in your engine?

**cdoliver** · 04-23-2017, 09:08 AM

No indication of brand on my receipt. I did measure all of the port sizes and Heights before reinstalling. They were the same. the only difference is where that bridge on the bottom and it didn't have an exhaust relief hole

**racer** · 04-23-2017, 10:03 AM

That bridge on the bottom would go right across the bottom of the boost port and should have been removed. The small bore had them but sleeves were longer. Non come with idle relief in they are machined in after sleeve is installed.

Did you clean piston top to verify it was installed correctly?

**cdoliver** · 04-23-2017, 10:21 AM

Originally Posted by racer

That bridge on the bottom would go right across the bottom of the boost port and should have been removed. The small bore had them but sleeves were longer. Non come with idle relief in they are machined in after sleeve is installed.

Did you clean piston top to verify it was installed correctly?

The piston has the stamps on the exhaust side so I assume it's in correctly. Could that bridge be causing my lean condition?

**cdoliver** · 04-24-2017, 06:45 PM

Anyone know if that bridge over the boost port is causing my lean condition or should I look elsewhere? Sorry again for the rookie questions.

**racer** · 04-26-2017, 03:24 PM

I doubt it is causing your lean condition but will hurt power. You need to index flywheel to check timing on each cylinder. Did you check the water dividers?

**cdoliver** · 05-02-2017, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by racer

I doubt it is causing your lean condition but will hurt power. You need to index flywheel to check timing on each cylinder. Did you check the water dividers?

Well I finally got around d to indexing the flywheel and low and behold the #2 cylinder is retarded about 8deg... all others are advanced approx 10deg. So... what fixes this problem? I should have listened to you earlier... it's not the pack, it's a brand new OMC pack. And the old pack does the same thing... thanks again

**racer** · 05-02-2017, 05:59 PM

If both packs are giving you the same timing issue you will need to replace the timer base. have you tried grounding the white with black tracer that comes out of the pack and goes to the port temp switch? If not do this to make sure engine is not in quick start when you check timing.

**cdoliver** · 05-02-2017, 06:11 PM

Originally Posted by racer

If both packs are giving you the same timing issue you will need to replace the timer base. have you tried grounding the white with black tracer that comes out of the pack and goes to the port temp switch? If not do this to make sure engine is not in quick start when you check timing.

Tried grounding the wht/blk wire with the same result. I'll order a timer base and report back. Thanks racer

**cdoliver** · 05-08-2017, 08:47 PM

Originally Posted by racer

If both packs are giving you the same timing issue you will need to replace the timer base. have you tried grounding the white with black tracer that comes out of the pack and goes to the port temp switch? If not do this to make sure engine is not in quick start when you check timing.

Well installed new timer base and I'm not sold it's fixed... now some cyl. Are dead on and some are off. Sometimes I get a good reading then the timing mark jumps over an inch after a few revolutions.... mostly happens on cyl 1 and 4... What do i need to do now? I put the old pack on with same results... I'm lost...