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Thread: Floor question

  1. #1
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    Floor question

    When I took the carpet out of my 16 foot Kona, I noticed the floor was painted wood that was tabbed on the edges. The tabbing did not bond to the painted wood. So I took it out. Also discovered that there was no attempt to bond the wood to to hull, the only adhesion was the tabbing. The plywood used for the floor was 1/2 inch thick.
    I have a plan to replace the floor and wanted to post it and ask a few questions.
    Here ar a few facts,
    1. There are no stringers in this boat and I can't find proof that there ever were.
    2. There is a large keel in the middle which is the backbone of the boat that supports the floor. The floor is supported at the sides by the indentions for the strakes.
    Here is my plan,
    1. 3/4 inch plywood, coated with thinned epoxy, then apply 1708 and epoxy resin to the bottom and sides of the floor.
    2. Epoxy the floor to the keel and sides of the boat.
    3. Epoxy and 1708 to the top of the floor which will also overlap about 5 inches onto the innerhull.
    4. Coat again for waterproofing and surface to paint and glue carpet to.

    Questions
    1. would 1/2 inch wood be strong enough, since I believe this is also the structure of the hull?
    2. Which fabric is better for the top and bottom for strength?
    3. Which brand epoxy is more forgiving knowing that the temps here are in the 60's during the day and 50's at night, and the fact that I will be doing this project solo, no help! I am in a metal building, just not climate controlled.
    I look forward to the replies, I made this plan from the information in the postings on this site. Thanks in advance for your feedback.
    Jerry

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    With 1700 and epoxy you could easily go down to 1/2'' wood. Will end up being close to 3/4'' after glassing. 1708 has matt backing which is not needed with epoxy. You could drop down to a lighter 1200 bi ply and still have no problems. Use a 6'' tab around the edge and then cover that and the wood with the covering glass for a little more strength at the floor hull seam. Some putty where the floor meets the hull and on the keel pc. would be a plus also. Set the wood into some putty and then glass over. Epoxy resin/hardners varies with mfgs. Check with your supplier for what they recommend. Others here more versed in the diff epoxys will help also i'm sure.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
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  4. #3
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    Thanks for your input, I was hoping to hear from you. I see the strengthening by the added tabbing. Called the tech line at West Systems, those guys are very helpful. They explained what hardener, filler, fairing compound. They also said that 1708 was not needed as you did!
    Going to use your suggestions.
    thanks!
    here is something I tried, to grind the old glass out, a 40 grit flap wheel went away in no time. I used a metal wheel made for grinding concrete on a 4.5 inch grinder. It did a great job, is self cleaning and shows NO wear!
    Last edited by Ramonepb; 03-29-2017 at 08:45 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by XstreamVking View Post
    With 1700 and epoxy you could easily go down to 1/2'' wood. Will end up being close to 3/4'' after glassing. 1708 has matt backing which is not needed with epoxy. You could drop down to a lighter 1200 bi ply and still have no problems. Use a 6'' tab around the edge and then cover that and the wood with the covering glass for a little more strength at the floor hull seam. Some putty where the floor meets the hull and on the keel pc. would be a plus also. Set the wood into some putty and then glass over. Epoxy resin/hardners varies with mfgs. Check with your supplier for what they recommend. Others here more versed in the diff epoxys will help also i'm sure.

    THANKS
    Thank you for your recommendation. I covered the bottom of the 1/2 inch plywood with epoxy resin, then laid down 12 ounce biaxial glass and saturated it with resin. Then wetted the surfaces the floor would rest on, and laid down a saturated glass tab and applied silica thicken epoxy over that. Laid down the floor and used weights on 2/4's to keep it in place. The strength of the floor is impressive and I can tell a big difference in the structural integrity of the hull. Next is to lay the glass on the top of the floor and complete the interior. Your method worked out fantastic! Thank you!
    I do have one question.
    Even though I sanded the sides of the wood and used a router and rounded the edge, it was very hard to get the glass to transition down onto the side, the glass kept raising up. Is there a secret to making the transition?
    Again thanks for the help!

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    Use some putty under the glass to make a smooth transition. It doesn't like to make sharp curves.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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    Why not make the wood fit 99% perfect fit before you resin coat or glass anything ?? Its only wood and easy to work with , could feather out where it touchs the hull and be almost perfectly flat on top !! no rounding needed and once glassed would hardly even see the transition from one to the other at all !! have you though about access panels or ports to be able to get to the bilges sometime in the future to see what happening under there ??
    NO NEED TO USE ANY FILLERS OR PUTTY POOH ANY WHERE !!
    Last edited by tunnels; 06-29-2017 at 10:22 PM.
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

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    He's asking how to solve a problem. Instead of making negative comments, why not try and help? There's nothing wrong with using a little putty to smooth out a transition from the floor to the hull.

    83 V-King, 96 Mariner, 200 hp ff block 2.5 w/a 28p choppa
    We gotta clean this liberal mess up, VOTE TRUMP TO MAGA!
    Rebuild thread:
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...-it&highlight=
    http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...cs.&highlight=
    Videos

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    The question was how to lay glass over the side edge of plywood. I rounded it off so that the glass did not make a 90 degree bend. Unthickened epoxy is not heavy enough to keep the glass bent while setting up. I took great care to shape and fit the plywood, can't count how many trial fits were involved. Silica was used to thicken the epoxy for insurance that it didn't just squeeze out between to surfaces that were joined but could not be accessed after the floor was in place. I had to prepare the bottom side of the floor, let cure, remove the amine blush and then put in the boat. It was the safest way for success because I have no help, I am a one man crew, which makes you think the process through several times before you attemp it!

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  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramonepb View Post
    The question was how to lay glass over the side edge of plywood. I rounded it off so that the glass did not make a 90 degree bend. Unthickened epoxy is not heavy enough to keep the glass bent while setting up. I took great care to shape and fit the plywood, can't count how many trial fits were involved. Silica was used to thicken the epoxy for insurance that it didn't just squeeze out between to surfaces that were joined but could not be accessed after the floor was in place. I had to prepare the bottom side of the floor, let cure, remove the amine blush and then put in the boat. It was the safest way for success because I have no help, I am a one man crew, which makes you think the process through several times before you attemp it!
    Very simple!! shaping and fit the plywood 100% properly first ,then chamfered and feathering the underside properly there'd be virtually no problems ,a small amount of putty pooh to smooth things over maybe and then lay your glass over the flat surface !
    Is that really so difficult ???
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by tunnels View Post
    Very simple!! shaping and fit the plywood 100% properly first ,then chamfered and feathering the underside properly there'd be virtually no problems ,a small amount of putty pooh to smooth things over maybe and then lay your glass over the flat surface !
    Is that really so difficult ???
    You are so condescending.

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  14. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    You are so condescending.
    just thinking practical , its just a wooden floor plain simple and easy to work with!!

    IT APPEARS some things are just TO SIMPLE TO MOST GUYS TO FOLLOW !!
    Last edited by tunnels; 07-06-2017 at 12:33 AM.
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

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    Stick with XstreamVking's advice, his answer was knowledgeable and practical.
    1977 Hydrostream Vector 2.5 Promax

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    Quote Originally Posted by tunnels View Post
    just thinking practical , its just a wooden floor plain simple and easy to work with!!

    IT APPEARS some things are just TO SIMPLE TO MOST GUYS TO FOLLOW !!
    There you go again Mr. High and Mighty. We're just a bunch of simpletons. As soon as I figure out how to block your post I will never have to read you BS again. Than everyone can do the same thing and in a little while you will be forgotten and all will be right with the world.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vnemous View Post
    There you go again Mr. High and Mighty. We're just a bunch of simpletons. As soon as I figure out how to block your post I will never have to read you BS again. Than everyone can do the same thing and in a little while you will be forgotten and all will be right with the world.
    you have said all that before but your still here whats you problem ?? cant find the right button ??
    Last edited by tunnels; 07-06-2017 at 07:00 AM.
    Messing round with boats is fun !! the learning never stops ,even after more than 30 years there's always something new happening somewhere ! BUT somethings never change and some problems never go away and just keep reoccurring !!so moved into Composite Forensics , Now that something completely new !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by tunnels View Post
    ,a small amount of putty pooh to smooth things over maybe and then lay your glass over the flat surface !
    Is that really so difficult ???
    Funny how XStream suggested putty to make the glass transition better, then Tunnels berated that method and later said to use putty
    "One of the penalties for refusing to participate in politics is that you end up being governed by your inferiors". Plato .

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