Just bought a re cored V-King and I want to know if I should go with my CMC 5.5" jack

[Valero2.5]

I am DEBATING HOW MUCH SETBAck to run my Bridgeport on my YT for a nice safe ride to 90 mph, I am toying with the idea. Of an 8" SEAStar or my 5.5" CMc high speed lift.

[AlaskaStreamin]

I ran a 5 1/2" CMC with a EFI Bridgeport on my Viking. Was the perfect setback. Not a YT hull though.
Matt Pickett had a 8" on his Viking and you can see in this horrible picture, he is tucked under just a tad at just over 100 mph.

[Valero2.5]

I ran a 5 1/2" CMC with a EFI Bridgeport on my Viking. Was the perfect setback. Not a YT hull though.
Matt Pickett had a 8" on his Viking and you can see in this horrible picture, he is tucked under just a tad at just over 100 mph.

Wow, Great speeds, i might run 8" mechanical or steal my High Speed CMC and use 5.5" Just not sure, and yes, YT will be a little different, but dang, those are great speeds, thanks. Jim

[XstreamVking]

From the Hydro Stream site.....

From here, we move on the YT hull. Basically, this was the hull that was supposed to add greatly to safety for the beginning user because of its very forgiving nature and full sponson support. The YT’s sponsons are level with the bottom pad, meaning that the hull rides on three "wet points" at high speeds. These hulls will require more hp than it’s V-bottom sibling to achieve similar performance, however, stability and cornering are the staples of this hull’s character.
These hulls do not fly as easily as V-bottom hulls, and will require 175 hp or more for satisfactory performance. A minimum of six inches of setback is recommended, and unless 230+ hp is on your transom, you’ll need the bow lift of a roundear to get that boat to move. Typically, these hulls will break away at 70-75 mph, and in some cases, requires more than modest positive trim to facilitate this on lower-horsepower rigs. Although this is a modified tunnel design, it will chine walk at speeds approaching eighty mph. Typically, the motors are set slightly lower in the transom than a V-bottom configuration. In my experience, a hydraulic lift plate is most useful on these hulls, since they are very sensitive to weight changes. Adding a passenger? Just lower the motor to help that rig break away. Finally, these hulls are much less susceptible to blowing over. Added weight, better under-hull air management, and a low bow stance all contribute to this hull being among the safest hot boat rigs on the water.
Cornering performance is superb, and taking turns in this hull will almost make you forget that you’re on water. Tight high-speed maneuvers can be executed with confidence, and the stern behaves by tracking extremely well. Rough water handling is also great, thanks to the large, deep sponsons. These hulls can fly over small chop at eighty mph with little difficulty.

[Valero2.5]

From the Hydro Stream site.....

From here, we move on the YT hull. Basically, this was the hull that was supposed to add greatly to safety for the beginning user because of its very forgiving nature and full sponson support. The YT’s sponsons are level with the bottom pad, meaning that the hull rides on three "wet points" at high speeds. These hulls will require more hp than it’s V-bottom sibling to achieve similar performance, however, stability and cornering are the staples of this hull’s character.
These hulls do not fly as easily as V-bottom hulls, and will require 175 hp or more for satisfactory performance. A minimum of six inches of setback is recommended, and unless 230+ hp is on your transom, you’ll need the bow lift of a roundear to get that boat to move. Typically, these hulls will break away at 70-75 mph, and in some cases, requires more than modest positive trim to facilitate this on lower-horsepower rigs. Although this is a modified tunnel design, it will chine walk at speeds approaching eighty mph. Typically, the motors are set slightly lower in the transom than a V-bottom configuration. In my experience, a hydraulic lift plate is most useful on these hulls, since they are very sensitive to weight changes. Adding a passenger? Just lower the motor to help that rig break away. Finally, these hulls are much less susceptible to blowing over. Added weight, better under-hull air management, and a low bow stance all contribute to this hull being among the safest hot boat rigs on the water.
Cornering performance is superb, and taking turns in this hull will almost make you forget that you’re on water. Tight high-speed maneuvers can be executed with confidence, and the stern behaves by tracking extremely well. Rough water handling is also great, thanks to the large, deep sponsons. These hulls can fly over small chop at eighty mph with little difficulty.

WOW, that is A GREAT article, and YES, i have a 240-250 hp Bridgeport, so maybe CMC 5.5" is good enough, i dont want to beat transom up with extra weight farther back if i dont have too! Thanks!

[XstreamVking]

Run 5.5 for a while and when you get used to it add more set back if you feel it needs more bow lift. Un fortunately this stuff is not an exact science.

[Valero2.5]

Thank You for the help and advice, as for chine walking, i was reading short adjustments to left if right hand rotation of prop, i need to know how to nip the the chine walking in the bud, i hear YT's can chine approaching 8o mph

[XstreamVking]

Here's my King, it handles fairly good and takes only a little sawing left and right to keep it under control. There were swells and wakes from some yacht's at the beginning, it's better toward the end of the vid. 3.0 EFI merc with a lightning 28p labbed. 80 plus.....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nGS-bAmfANQ