Need help with 260 piston removal

**FORBESAUTO** · 02-25-2017, 10:05 PM

It cannot be completely below sleeve to pull it off. Sleeve goes all the way to floor

**FORBESAUTO** · 02-25-2017, 10:11 PM

Faster, you have right idea and trying only thing possible shy of cutting piston. Just be patient and take your time and hopefully you can get it. It should only be popped out in one port where gap is, hopefully it's port that is accessible through rod slot. If not it's gonna be next to impossible without cutting piston

**FORBESAUTO** · 02-25-2017, 10:13 PM

Take another piston to find out where gaps are so you will know where you need to be working.

**FasterDaddyFaster** · 02-25-2017, 10:14 PM

Ring is all the way out the bottom of the sleeve, the piston is a top pinned Mahle and end gap on the ring is lined up with the pin. That's why I'm thinking if I compress the ring with the screwdriver at the top pinned location and stake it right there with the feeler guage, that will be down into the cylinder and held in place by a small flat headed nail by drilling a hole partially into the piston face, and rotate it and do it again so the ring will stay compressed all the way around.

**FMP** · 02-25-2017, 10:18 PM

I'm not sure where you can could find it but something like a dentist bit to carefully eat through the ring? Ring is out the bottom of sleeve, how much clearance to sides?

**ChrisCarsonMarine** · 02-25-2017, 10:58 PM

I looked at a 260 block,there is a relief all the way around the base of the sleeve,not just at the ports.Not looking too good to me,and the relief isn't big enough to allow the ring to expand out of the piston even if you could try to force it out.Winding a thin shim or feeler guard strip over the rings,through the transfer port at the rod slot is my best guess to not damage anything.bend the tip to engauge the ring tips and wind it over the rings by rotating the piston...plenty of slick oil,good luck,Chris

**FMP** · 02-26-2017, 03:28 PM

You thinking about trying the other five?

**eli** · 02-26-2017, 05:49 PM

maybe some heavier copper shim and little rotation

**Steve Pope** · 02-26-2017, 06:43 PM

I did the same thing ONCE!!! Used 2 thou feeler gauge strips to act as ramps to feed the ring back into the bore.

**dwilfong** · 02-26-2017, 06:47 PM

Get some shim stock you can slip it down between the piston and cylinder. use a few pieces to go all the way around as you spin the piston.

**Dave Strong** · 02-26-2017, 08:59 PM

Originally Posted by dwilfong

Get some shim stock you can slip it down between the piston and cylinder. use a few pieces to go all the way around as you spin the piston.

Going you be tricky to line up the gaps and the locator pins.

Dave

**Krazymaan** · 02-27-2017, 11:25 AM

Well, we all just learned what not to do. I just don't know how the OP was going to check ring gap on a ring while it was still on a piston in a cylinder upside down. Maybe he can answer that if the piston wasn't pushed too far. I'm kinda curious myself.

**Go Time** · 02-27-2017, 12:13 PM

A 260 should have room at the rod slot where it is cut so it charges behind the liner...can you cut the ring there with a dremel and colapse it in pieces and remove it ....you may end up having to sacrifice the piston & ring to get it out.